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In
our last report on the Chilean winery Cono Sur, we touched
on all the major points of their operation; the vineyard holdings spread up and
down the country in most, if not all, of the major wine producing regions, the
state of the art winery, the Pinot Noir Project, the Integrated
Vineyard Management system using natural alternatives to fertilize, prevent
and control pests, diseases and weeds and all the rest. (You can read about it
here, or go directly to
the source for more information.) We
generally liked what we tasted then, with some notable reservations. The whites
were uniformly solid across the board and the Pinot Noirs showed plenty of
promise, but if there was a weak link, it was the Bordeaux varieties and
Syrah, which showed such excessive oak that we were not only unable to finish a
glass of several of these, we hesitated to add them to our vinegar crocks.
Fast forward to this summer, when we got to taste through eight of the current
releases from Cono Sur, and our impressions of the whites and Pinots are largely
the same. The Bordeaux varieties are showing some improvement, as we can stand
to drink two out of three without dumping the first glass, but in general, they
still show too much wood for our tastes. Here are our impressions of what
we tried.
Cono Sur Central Valley Chardonnay 2007, 13.5% alc., $9.99: Good medium
straw color; ripe apple and pear flavors with a streak of pineapple and a hint
of sweet pea. Good weight, balance and cut, so what’s not to like here, and why
can’t they make a Cab or Merlot this good? Find this wine
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Cono
Sur Colchagua Chardonnay Sustainable Agriculture 2007, 13% alc., $12.99:
Pale to medium straw color, with straightforward apple and pear flavors and
aromas accented with a little spice; good weight, balance and cut, but a little
less expressive than the regular bottling. Find this wine
Cono Sur Colchagua Viognier Vision 2007, 13.5% alc., $14.99: Good color,
with ripe apple, kiwi and a hint of honeysuckle in both flavor and aroma,
turning slightly bitter on the finish; medium full bodied, with good cut and
concentration, this is, as always, a solid performer. Find this wine
Cono Sur Central Valley Pinot Noir 2007, 13.5% alc., $9.99: Ruby red
color; hints of smoke and tar add some interest to the straightforward,
varietally correct black cherry flavors and aromas. Just when I’m about to write
this off as just another middle weight contender with enough structure for a few
years of development, it starts to open with air and reveal a subtle earthiness
and a note of cola, gaining some weight, depth and nuance. Here’s a great
example of why we always prefer to spend some time with a wine instead of taste
through fifteen, twenty or more at a large event and barely get to know any of
them. Great QPR with this one. Find this wine
Cono Sur Colchagua Pinot Noir Vision 2006, 85% Santa Elisa Estate (Colchagua)
and 15% El Marco II Estate (Casablanca), 14% alc., $14.99: Ruby red, with a
tinge of smoke; a little deeper and darker than the regular model, but also
showing a note of oak-vanilla-toasted bread that bothers Kim more than this
taster. There’s some earth and tar underneath the black cherry character, but
the oak seems to mask any subtler characteristics at this point. Medium full
bodied, with good depth and structure; give it some air now and enjoy it with
some salmon or roast pork loin, or give it some time in the cellar and see if
the oak tones down and other things emerge. Either way, it’s still a good buy at
$15. Find this wine
Cono Sur Colchagua Merlot Vision 2006, 85% Merlot, 7% Cabernet, 5% Malbec, 2% Syrah, 1%
Aspiran Bouchet, 14% alc., $14.99: Purple garnet in color, and a little
leaner than the Cameron Hughes Lot
79 2005 Napa Merlot tasted on the same occasion; toasty oak flirts with
crossing the line into excess, vying for dominance with the black currant and
berry flavors and aromas. Toasty, as with toasted bread straight out of the
toaster, with subtle earthy undertones and good structure for three to five
years or more of development. Drinks well enough at first, but becomes tedious
with a second glass. Find this wine
Cono Sur Central Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 2007 85% Cabernet Sauvignon, 9% Merlot, 3% Carmenere, 3% Syrah 12.8% alc., $9.99: Kim called this one correctly when
she characterized it as “extracted oak, fermented cherry all spice juice.”
There’s obviously some deep, dark fruit here, but it’s ruined by excessive oak
and manipulation. Neither of us could finish a glass of this atrocity. Find this wine
Cono Sur Maipo Cabernet Sauvignon Vision 2006, 85% Cabernet Sauvignon, 5% Syrah, 4% Malbec, 3% Carmenere, 2% Petit Verdot, 1% Aspiran Bouchet, 14% alc., $14.99:
Opaque in color, and pushing it with the oak, but never quite crossing the line
for Kim, who is far less tolerant of the wood than this taster. The fruit is
like a cross between black currant and black cherry, deep, dark and rich, with
good structure and length and a note of chocolate. This is the only one of the
reds besides the Pinot Noirs that we could really drink and enjoy throughout,
and it should develop and improve with at least a few years in the cellar. Find this wine
Reporting from Day-twah,
geo t.
Other Recent Wine Explorations
10 from Arcadian
Stratus-on-Niagara
4 from Cos d'Estournel
New Rieslings from Chateau Grand
Traverse & more…
Colorado Dreaming
Not So Random
Samples: 6 From Cameron Hughes
All the Notes That Fit
Red Wings and Red
Rhônes
Playoff Diary 2008
WELCOME HOME STANLEY!!!
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© George Heritier September, 2008
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