2007 St. Hallett Barossa Semillon Sauvignon Blanc, 11.5% alc., $17 Can.:
Medium straw color, with a tinge of lime; the Semillon character really stands
out in this, with bright (but not over-the-top) green apple and lime flavors and
aromas, and some nice minerality underneath. Good weight and perfect balance
make this a pleasure to drink; it’s one of Marty and Robin’s go-to whites. Find this wine
2006 Tawse Sketches of Niagara Chardonnay, 13.9% alc., $22 Can.: Medium
straw color, with a shade of lemon-lime: clean, bright Chardonnay character,
with apple and pear flavors and aromas accented with a kiss of spicy oak and a
hint of honey. Medium full to full bodied, with excellent acids and balance,
this pairs quite well with a delicious pickerel cheek salad, and reinforced the
impression that Kim, Alan and I got during a visit to the winery two days
previous that these folks are doing serious things on the Twenty Mile Bench.
(And if you've never had pickerel cheeks, you don't know what you're missing!) Find this wine
2000
Marc Morey Chassagne - Montrachet Les Vergers, $39.99, 13.5% alc.: It’s been
four years since
we last tried this lime tinged medium straw, and it’s still going
strong. It offers mineral, pear, pineapple and honey on the nose; in the mouth,
the pineapple and honey take a backseat to the mineral and pear, which strike a
nice balance between rich and restrained. Full bodied, perfectly balanced and
drinking very well now, but a few more years won’t hurt it at all. Find this wine
Imported by Robert Kacher Selections, Washington, DC
Champagne Jean Laurent Blanc de Noirs Brut: Disgorged September, 2007,
from three vintages aged a minimum of five years. Always a favorite with Adams,
Heritier and Associates, this one didn’t disappoint in the least. Medium straw
color, with big mousse and a fine active bead, it pumps out big, pungent green
and red apple with a hint of cherry and a lot of mineral. Rich and powerful, it
has “lots of f*ckin’ flavor to it,” according to Marty, and exhibits everything
that I love about the Champagnes of Jean Laurent. Find this wine
Imported by Hand Picked Selections, Warrenton, VA
2002 A. Rafanelli Dry Creek Zinfandel: This one almost looks like a glass
of ink, and is quite simply quintessential Dry Creek Zinfandel, with big flavors
and aromas of black raspberry, briar, bramble and old wood in the old school
style. Full bodied and very well structured, this would seem to be coming into
its prime drinking window, and pairs very well with grilled quail. Turley
drinkers need not apply. Find this wine
2007 Chakana Mendoza Malbec Lujan de Coyo, 14% alc.: Deeply, darkly
colored, with a typical Malbec personality of dog fur, black currant and
blackberry (“more berry than currant,” in Alan’s judgment) shaded with hints of
coffee, toast and a little chocolate. Well structured and balanced for drinking
now and over the next three to five years, this also matched nicely with the
grilled quail. Find this wine
“It’s a funny wine. It’s standing up and making jokes!” –Alan Kerr
Following those, we sat down to give some serious consideration to the main
event, the four Cos d'Estournels. We tasted through them from youngest to
oldest, comparing our various impressions of each. All four wine show a similar
deep, dark color, with no rust or bricking as of yet; they also display a
consistent house style that the producer’s website describes as
“a… virile elegance in which power does not exclude either
grace or mildness.” The three older wines came out of Marty’s cellar,
while Alan provided the ’86. Kim and I were fortunate
to taste the ’95 and ’96
from this great Chateau about a year and a half ago, and here were selections
that were ten years older and more!
1986 Château Cos d'Estournel Saint Estèphe: Full bodied and muscular,
this delivers rich, dense, dark black currant, cassis, old wood and hints of
underbrush and some subtle chocolate. Kim remarked that “it smells like a poopy
aquarium,” and Alan noted “beautiful spice, anise.” Robin commented on
impressions of “cedar wood shavings.” This is still a relatively young wine,
with big structure and a serious core of powerful fruit. 22 years old and it’s
not close to its peak, and yet as little as half an hour of air makes it
approachable; with extended air, it drinks quite well. If I had some, I’d
probably try it again in three to five years to see where it’s at. Find this wine
1985 Château Cos d'Estournel Saint Estèphe: This is another relatively
young wine; it shows black currant with some herbaceousness on the nose,
following through on the palate to reveal a rich core of fruit with big bones
and a dense mouth feel. As it opens (and again, air really helps this, as with
all four of these), it constantly evolves and improves, with emerging notes of
tobacco, underbrush and dark chocolate. It seems to be just starting to hit its
prime drinking window, and it elicited these comments and descriptors as the
wine opened: Find this wine
“A little vegetal; more poop than pepper…” – Kim
“Nice mineral, lead pencil and iron. It’s a funny wine.
It’s standing up and making jokes!” – Alan
“Burnt sugar and coffee…” – Kim
“Slightly under-ripe bell pepper…” – Alan
1983 Château Cos d'Estournel Saint Estèphe: There’s nothing secondary in
nature to this one yet, but it does seem to be going into a mature phase, with
old wood, saddle leather and black currant characteristics on a big bodied
frame. There’s a lot going on here, as it constantly opens and evolves, and my
initial impressions expanded to include notes of cedar, mahogany and tobacco.
Like the following wine, this is in a prime drinking window, but perhaps not yet
at peak. Find this wine
1982 Château Cos d'Estournel Saint Estèphe: This is the richest of the
four, but it also has funkier notes than the others. I noted a little funk over
old wood, tobacco, and earthy black currant with a hint of leather; silky and
beautiful with air, it’s another big wine, smooth in texture, with tannins that
don’t intrude on the pleasure that this delivers right now. Still, at 26 years
old, it’s in no danger of fading any time soon, but I wouldn’t presume to guess
what kind of lifespan it has ahead of it. The funky quality never does “blow
off,” and that’s fine with me, because I like it. Here’s what others had to say
about this: Find this wine
“Burnt sugar…” – Kim, who named it as her
favorite of the four after the first pass
“Incredibly ripe fruit…” – Alan
“The caramelized brown sugar has turned to Mochaccino, so
smooth in the mouth…” – Kim
“A bonfire-like char…” – Group consensus
Here was a wonderful opportunity to taste these truly great wines. If I had to
pick a favorite, I’d have to go with the ’82, if only because it’s the one
that’s drinking the best right now, but in fact, all of these are loaded with
multi-dimensional charms and attributes. Many thanks to Marty for staging the
tasting and to him and Robin for their hospitality in opening their beautifully
restored vintage home to us. It was a gas!
Reporting from Day-twah,
geo t.
Other Recent Wine Explorations
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Samples: 6 From Cameron Hughes
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Red Wings and Red
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Playoff Diary 2008
WELCOME HOME STANLEY!!!
21 ’06 Burgs – 2nd Day Air
Red Wings and Red
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Playoff Diary 2008-Round 3
Red Wings and Red Rhônes
Playoff Diary 2008-Round 2
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© George Heritier August, 2008
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