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Who doesn’t like receiving an unexpected package in the mail, or by UPS, as was the case in this instance? I had thought that the Hughes-Wellman Cabernet Sauvignon reviewed last time out was a one-shot deal, so I was pleasantly surprised a few weeks later in taking delivery of a six-pack selection from the Cameron Hughes Lot series, half of which are current releases, with the other three still in the queue. Kim and I got to cozy up and taste these at our leisure, which is so much more civilized than having to taste through them quickly, all in one sitting, with 2 oz. pours that hardly let you get to know the wines at all. (Look out, there’s a rant brewing here somewhere in the subterranean depths of my psyche…)

Here’s what we tried and my impressions thereof:

Cameron Hughes Lot 66 2006 Veneto Pinot Grigio, 12% alc., $10: Medium straw in color, with green apple, melon and lime flavors and aromas, along with some decent mineral underneath. Medium bodied and then some, with good acids and a certain creamy mouthfeel at the same time. This likes a little air, as it’s decidedly dry and not-quite austere when first poured, but rounds out nicely as it opens and warms a little in the glass. Good varietal character and QPR for the price. Sourced from a small, family run winery in the Veneto. Find this wine

Imported by Cameron Hughes Wine, San Francisco, CA

Cameron Hughes Lot 71 2004 Alexander Valley Cabernet Sauvignon, 14.5% alc., $15: Showing good, dark color and plenty of toasty oak with a little dill over black currant and blackberry in both flavor and aroma. Smooth, lush texture, yet well structured for at least five years of aging and development, the issue here being whether the excessive, intrusive oak will ever integrate. With some air and a medium rare steak off the grill, this actually becomes somewhat (but never entirely) enjoyable. Find this wine

Cameron Hughes Lot 73 2006 Sonoma Cabernet Sauvignon Chalk Hill, 14.8% alc., $16: Deeply, darkly colored; rich and ripe, with a solid core of black currant, blackberry and black cherry fruit shaded with a subtle note of chocolate that mercifully shows little of the overt oak found in the Lot 71. Full bodied, but not heavy; well structured, yet quite enjoyable with some time in a decanter, and while this is riper than I usually prefer my Cabs, and doesn’t exactly demonstrate varietal typicity, I like it in the same way I like a good fruit forward Spanish or Australian red, the operative term being “good.” Find this wine

Cameron Hughes Lot 79 2005 Napa Merlot, 13.5% alc., $14: Clean dark color, with a slightly smoky black currant and blackberry personality accented with a soft chocolate overlay and earthy undertones. The plush texture coexists harmoniously with ample structure that will allow for at least two or three years of aging and improvement. A pretty nice glass of Merlot, all in all, with no excesses in the way of oak or ripe fruit. Find this wine

As stated previously, I admire Cameron Hughes’ “outside the box virtual winery” model, and even if I don’t personally gush over everything we taste in his book, the wines are well made and offer good value. Only the oak in Lot 71 really puts me off a bit in this bunch, and that’s a pretty good batting average. According to the information provided with these, they all are or will be available at www.chwine.com, select Costcos, Sam's Clubs and Cost Plus World Markets around the country.  Now, my curiosity is piqued to see what else Cam has in the queue , and hey, are there any “library” selections? };^)>

Reporting from Day-twah,

geo t.

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© George Heritier July, 2008