The winemaking program itself is rather novel, at least in this part of the world. Head winemaker J-L Groux, a native of the France's Loire Valley, is committed to the art of “assemblage,” or to put it simply, the blending of different grape varieties together to create a greater whole than the sum of its parts. As Charles explained, the main focus is on the creation of their signature Stratus Red and Stratus White wines. Grape selection is extremely rigorous, and the varieties are fermented separately; in any given vintage, the best blends are created from the materials at hand, and from there, it’s a trickle down process in making the other wines produced, including the second tiered Wildass label.
 

2005 Stratus Cabernet Franc, $36 Can: Showing good dark color, this middle weight red shows a pretty perfume from the judicious use of oak, good intensity and a smooth lush texture to the high-toned raspberry and red currant fruit with some pretty spice and subtle earthy undertones. Like the following wine, this one is all about elegance, and I liked it well enough to bring one back home. Fewer than ten barrels were produced. Find this wine

2005 Stratus Red, $44 Can: This saw 15-18 months in barrel without racking, and is composed of all five Bordeaux varieties, and also a little Gamay and Syrah, each fermented individually before assemblage. It shows good dark color and rich, elegant black currant, blackberry and black cherry flavors, again, with judicious oak accents. Fermented in 65% first cycle (2 years per cycle) and 35% second cycle barrels, this exhibits a wonderful sense of elegance, finesse and restraint, and I was compelled to bring one home as well. Find this wine

2006 Stratus Gewurztraminer, $32 Can: From a 15-year old block and a cool vintage, this is medium straw colored with a lemon tinge and has a beautifully round mouth feel. It offers typical varietal flavors of peach and litchi, with a touch of vanilla from six months in four and five year old barrels. (It seems that they needed the tank space, and so after a year on the lees, they did what they had to do and came up with this little pretty.) Perfumed, and with the same elegant texture that seems to be a hallmark of just about everything they make, and just enough acidity to make it all come together and work well. Find this wine

2007 Stratus Riesling Icewine (200 ml), $39 Can: Like the 2007 Stratus Riesling, this is not produced from estate fruit; it saw all stainless steel, and was fermented a little drier than most, so it’s not as cloying as these can sometimes be. Alan commented on “a beautiful citrus, almost like sweet lime,” and these accent the perfumed apricot and honey characteristics very nicely. Find this wine

2007 Stratus Red Icewine (200 ml), $39 Can: Pretty in pink, this is comprised of Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc and Syrah, and offers sweet strawberry and rhubarb pie flavors and aromas, again, with great elegance and balance. Find this wine

To say that I was greatly impressed with this terrific operation would be an understatement; we certainly tasted nothing like this during our last trip some five years ago, and when I expressed such to Alan and Kim, they just smiled knowingly. It was especially cool to hook up with Charles again, and he was most gracious and generous with his time. Stratus is quite simply a must-stop for any wine lovers traipsing about the Niagara Peninsula looking for high quality wines in a showcase setting.

Reporting from Day-twah,