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And
so, another summer has passed, and this was a happy one in which each of
the Detroit Red Wings took possession of the fabled Stanley Cup
for a day to do with as they pleased, their reward as champions of the
National Hockey League. Another season is now underway, and it seems that
the best team on ice is only better, having absconded with two members of their
vanquished foes, the Pittsburgh Penguins in the persons of
Ty Conklin and the brilliant
Marion Hossa. And, as always, we’ve renewed
our tradition of watching our favorite team in sports whilst enjoying a glass or
two of fine red wine from France’s Rhône Valley.
We had chance to get a taste of a wine from a producer we’ve been
impressed with in
the past, and we liked this one so well, we went ahead and gathered the
entire lineup for evaluation.
2006 Domaine Sainte Anne Cotes du Rhône Rouge, 12% alc., $13.99: With
good dark color that fades to pink at the rim, this offers a hint of animal,
some nice violet and a mélange of pretty red berries on the nose, before turning
decidedly dry and earthy on the palate. Full bodied and balanced, with slightly
astringent tannins, good acids and nice length, this is solid Cotes du Rhône
that drinks well already and should get even better with at least 3-5 years in
the bottle. Excellent QPR. Find this wine
2004 Domaine Sainte Anne Cotes du Rhône Villages Rouge, 14% alc., $15.99:
Clean dark color, with just a hint of chocolate over pretty aromatics of red
plum, berry and black cherry underscored with a note of earth; plenty more of
the same on the palate, with the earthiness more pronounced and some leather as
it opens. Full bodied, well structured and long on the finish, this is still on
the way up and still at least 2-3 years from its peak, and might not get there
until 2014 or so. This is a solid wine that performs well and does everything
that it’s supposed to, and like every good Rhône, it really likes air. Find this wine |
2005
Domaine Sainte Anne Cotes du Rhône Villages Rouge, 13.5% alc., $15.99: Clean
ruby garnet color, not as dark as the ’04, nor as generous on the nose, giving
some dusty, earthy black fruit. It’s not as expressive on the palate either, but
still, it offers nice enough flavors of earthy red and black berry with no
frills. Full bodied, with solid structure and presence and good length. This is
real wine, with no pretense to anything more; to be fair, it only suffers in a
side-by-side comparison to the previous vintage, because on its own, it’s my
kind o’ red Rhône at a good price. It really wants a good cut of grilled medium
rare beef or lamb. Find this wine
2006 Domaine Sainte Anne Cotes du Rhône Villages Rouge, 13.5% alc., $15.99:
Deep, lovely color, with red plum, red berry and a note of violet on the nose;
dry flavors echo with a nice earthy base and excellent balance. Not as big or
muscular as the ’04 or ’05, but structured for 3-5 years in the cellar. Nice
right out of the bottle and doesn’t need much air to really please. Find this wine
2004
Domaine Sainte Anne Cotes du Rhône Villages Cuvee Notre-Dame des Cellettes
Rouge, 14% alc., $20.99: Clean dark color, with violets, black plum and
blackberry on the nose; the slightly dusty, earthy flavors generally echo with
less violets, some added forest floor and nice notes of leather and old wood.
Fairly smooth, with good structure and length, this is coming into a nice
drinking window, even if it still seems to be at least a few years from it’s
best. All in all, a very nice wine, made very much in what is obviously the
“house style.” Find this wine
2004 Domaine Sainte Anne Cotes du Rhône Villages Saint-Gervais Rouge, 14%
alc., $25.99: Showing good dark color, with aromatics of smoky mahogany,
truffles, violets and black fruit that carry over onto the palate so nicely, so
expressively. Lovely balance on a full bodied frame, with good structure, silky
tannins and a smooth texture. The smoky mahogany sets the tone here and tends to
be the quality that lingers most on the finish. You’d expect the priciest wine
in the lineup to drink the best, and this one does just that. Just a pleasure to
sip and enjoy. Find this wine
2005 Domaine Sainte Anne Cotes du Rhône Villages Saint-Gervais Rouge, 13.5%
alc., $25.99: Deeply, darkly colored, with subtle smoke and earthy black
plum, berry and currant in both flavor and aroma; full bodied, big and muscular,
with the structure for at least another 5 years in the cellar, but still, it’s
already drinking pretty well. Find this wine
Imported by AHD Vintners, Ltd., Warren, MI
We’ve been fans of
Alain Graillot Crozes Hermitage for many years now, but for the last
several, we had to elsewhere to find some, because it wasn’t being distributed
in the Detroit area. Happily, things have changed, so as soon as I saw this one,
I got a bottle to try, and wasn’t disappointed in the least.
2006 Alain Graillot Crozes Hermitage, 13% alc., $30.99: Deep dark color
to this one; charter Gangster Scott “the Geek” Tobias
comments immediately on the “game and meat” character, and you can add some
herbal underbrush and leather along with deep, dark, rich black plum and berry;
there’s actually a little more fruit and a little less earth than I expected,
based on past vintages of this wine. Full bodied and well structured, yet quite
approachable with an hour in a decanter; should be a 10-year wine, no sweat.
With extended air, more herb, underbrush and leather emerge. Find this wine
Imported by Europvin U.S.A., Van Nuys, CA
2006 Eric Texier Cotes du Rhône Brezeme,12.5% alc.: Much better than most
of the bizarre ’99 versions
of this bottling that we tried, this shows clean, dark color and weighs in at
medium full to full in body, with nicely balanced earthy red and black berry,
black plum and even some black cherry. There’s good structure for at least a few
years worth of improvement, but it’s already drinking well. Not as muscular as
many CdRs, but it compensates with a tasty, food friendly personality. Find this wine
Imported by Louis/Dressner, New York, NY
2005 Domaine Lucien Barrot et Fils Chateauneuf du Pape, 15% alc., $36.99:
Good dark color here, with flavors and aromas of earth, iron, black plum and
blackberry. Full bodied and muscular, with serious depth and intensity; the huge
core of fruit vies for dominance with the rocks, dirt and underbrush. This is a
BIG Chateauneuf du Pape with admirable charms, many layers of complexity and a
long life ahead of it. Should be at its best between 2015 and 2020. Find this wine
2006 Domaine Lucien Barrot et Fils Chateauneuf du Pape, 15% alc., $38.99:
Clean dark color, with smoky blackberry and plum shaded with undertones of earth
and iron on both the nose and the palate; Scott “the Geek” Tobias offered
impressions of cola and a ton of tobacco, adding that it’s “the interaction of
the fruit and tannins that make it remarkable. Not as big as the 2005 model, but
still, it’s full bodied, well structured, very good with some grilled lamb and
almost shockingly approachable for so young a wine of this kind. It should age
and improve easily for the next 5-7 years, and quite likely beyond. Find this wine
Imported by Europvin U.S.A., Van Nuys, CA
We got these next two wines in trade for some styro wine shippers, and I think
we got the better of the deal.
2007 Domaine Lafond Cotes du Rhône Roc-Epine, 70% Grenache, 30% Syrah, 13.5%
alc., $12.99: Deep, dark color, with plenty going on in the aromatic
department, including earth, animal, smoke, black plum and blackberry, and the
big, dry flavors echo with the emphasis on the earth and black fruit. Full
bodied, well structured and obviously a young wine; you can drink it now with
some aeration and grilled meats or you can put it down for at least five years
to hit its peak. Very good QPR here. Find this wine
2007 Domaine Lafond Lirac Roc-Epine, 13.5% alc., $18.99: Clean, dark
color; not giving much on the nose, but a good dose of earth and underbrush over
deep, dark black fruit on the palate, with some leather in support. No flair
here, nothing very stylish, just a big, rock solid red Rhône structured for
several years worth of aging and improvement in the cellar. More approachable on
the 2nd day, but still, this is quite likely a 10-year wine. Find this wine
Imported by Wines of France, Mountainside, NJ
2005 Marc Kreydenweiss Costieres de Nimes Perrieres, 60% Carignan, 20% Syrah,
20% Grenache, 13.5% alc., $21.99: Good dark color, with nice, earthy, smoky
black plum, black currant and black berry flavors and aromas, shaded with earth,
underbrush and leather. Full bodied and structured for at least 3 years of
improvement in the cellar. Really nice, and a wine that both Kim and I could get
used to drinking on a regular basis. Find this wine
Imported by Wilson Daniels Ltd., Saint Helena, CA
Reporting from Day-twah,
geo t.
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© George Heritier December, 2008
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