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It
doesn’t seem like four years since I got
my first taste
of former Detroit Red Wing Igor Larionov’s
wines, and back then, there were only three of them. Since that time, the newly
inducted Hockey Hall of Famer and his business partner
Mike Davis have expanded their lineup
considerably, with wines from both California and Australia. I
hadn’t tried them in over a year, since their Michigan distributor Leone
Imports’ annual trade show, and while it was obvious then that the wines
were excellent, I didn’t have the opportunity to spend the kind of time with
them to file the kind of report that I would have liked. When I mentioned that
I’d like to do just that to Leone Sales Manager Robert DeLaRosa, he
suggested pulling samples of the West Coast bottlings and getting together to
taste them with us. |
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2006 Igor Larionov Select Wines Sauvignon Blanc Triple Overtime Lake County, 14.1% alc., $19.99: Nice medium straw color; rich and ripe, showing more tropical fruit such as mango and banana, rather than the more usual grapefruit and gooseberry, with good weight, acids and length. Delicious, if not exactly typical. Sourced from Lake County vineyards owned by Rudy Zuidema, of Ehlers Estate. Find this wine 2005 Igor Larionov Select Wines Chardonnay Triple Overtime Russian River Valley, 14.2% alc., $24.99: Pale to medium straw in color, with a pretty kiss of oak over well behaved Chardo-pear on the nose accented with subtle spice and mineral; flavors echo and expand on a medium full to full bodied frame with good acids and presence. Kim comments on a “creamy orange-sickle thing” that gives her pause, but I have no such reservations. This has a lovely elegance and finesse, yet shows impressive intensity right on through the long finish. If I’m going to drink California Chardonnay, I want it to be something like this little lovely. The wine was made by Dave Miner and aged 6-8 months in oak. Find this wine 2005 Igor Larionov Select Wines Pinot Noir Triple Overtime Sonoma Mountain, 14.7% alc., $19.99: Rob says this is “another one of Rudy’s wines.” With its slightly smoky ruby color, it exudes effusive aromas of smoky black cherries that are rich, but not quite candied. There’s plenty more of the same on the palate, all with a solid earthy anchor. Medium full bodied, with an immediate presence that gets your attention, this is silky smooth and yet well structured, with very nice varietal character. Find this wine 2005 Igor Larionov Select Wines Cabernet Franc Triple Overtime Napa, 14.9% alc., $28.99: This pretty ruby garnet colored Cab Franc is a limited production wine from Steve Reynolds. The reticent nose barely hints at the full-bodied, slightly earthy black currant, plum and berry flavors; there’s nothing “green” about this, and it only shows a subtle, but attractive herbaceousness. Rich and perfectly ripe, it is eminently drinkable now, and yet structured for some years of further development. Find this wine 2005 Igor Larionov Select Wines Cuvee GD Triple Overtime Napa, 67% Cabernet Franc, 22% Cabernet Sauvignon, 9-10% Merlot, 1-2% Petite Verdot, 14.5% alc., $24.99: This wine pays homage to Mike Davis’ father George, who was instrumental in getting Mike involved in wine by introducing him to fine Burgundy and Bordeaux. Rob tells us that the Cabernet Franc comes from Reynolds, the Cabernet Sauvignon comes from Ehlers and the Merlot comes from Miners; Rudy made the wine. Showing good rich color, and again, not that generous on the nose at first, but giving more aromatically with air; the rich flavors strike a nice balance between intensity and finesse, offering rich currant, more red than black, with a mélange of red plum and red and black berry in support. Deceptively well structured for at least a few years of development, but so nice now, why wait? Find this wine
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