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hile following up on some of our past Underground features, I’ve had the
opportunity to try several new bottlings lately, and also to check on
the progress of some old friends we’ve tasted previously. Case in point:
Fred Fisher stopped by a few weeks
ago with four current selections from the
Fisher
Vineyards portfolio, all of which more than live up to the high
standards that one expects from a winery with such a fine track record.
2004
Fisher Sonoma Chardonnay Mountain Estate, $58.99, 14.1% alc.: I quite
enjoyed the
2003 version of this wine, and the ’04 is every bit as good;
medium straw in color with a tinge of lime, it offers toasty oak over
pear and tropical fruit, shaded with hints of mineral, all in the
classic Fisher style. Velvet smooth on the palate, with excellent
balance, length and best of all, great promise for the future. Sees 14
months in French oak, 50% of which is new. Find this wine
2003 Fisher Napa Cameron Red Wine, 75% Cabernet Sauvignon,
$53.99, 13% Merlot, 7% Cabernet Franc,
5% Malbec 14.5% alc.: A lovely dark garnet hue, this wine is
produced from 6-10 year old vines from Fisher’s Napa Estate vineyards.
Like
the ’02 version, this is meant to be drunk early and enjoyed for
its exuberance, and it certainly performs admirably in that regard,
giving up sweet oak over rich, delicious black currant and black cherry
flavors and aromas, all with subtle hints of chocolate underneath. Well
structured, with a long finish, it can be enjoyed now or laid down for a
few years. Find this wine
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2002 Fisher Napa Cabernet Sauvignon Coach
Insignia, $74.99, 86% Cabernet Sauvignon, 14% Cabernet Franc, 14.8% alc.:
Deeper and darker than the Cameron in both color and character, this is
a fine follow-up to the excellent
’01 Coach Insignia, with spicy sweet oak, black currant, dark
plum and black cherry characteristics that meld seamlessly into the
greater whole; rich, lush and delicious, and structured to improve for
several years, yet already drinking well, with the tannins showing
mostly on the finish.
Find this wine
2001
Fisher Napa Cabernet Sauvignon Lamb Vineyard, 100% Cabernet Sauvignon,
$132.99, 14.3% alc.: Not as sweet on the nose or on the palate as the Cameron
or Coach Insignia bottlings, this features subtle toasty oak over
deeper, darker black currant and cassis shaded with earthy undertones
and some subtle cedar and tobacco; still a relatively young wine, it
should start to show its best around 2011. It would be interesting to do
a side by side comparison with this and the
2000 Fisher Lamb Cab that I enjoyed so much last year. Find this wine
These four fine wines only reinforce my appreciation for Fisher
Vineyards, and after having spent some time with Fred’s daughter (and
Fisher winemaker)
Whitney, it was a treat to finally get to meet the patriarch of
the family. The same can be said for Nicole
Duncan, who is not only involved in Sales & Marketing for the
rising Napa Valley star winery
Ladera, but is also the daughter of Ladera owners
Pat and
Anne Stotesbery. Nicole came through town not long ago, and
we tasted through the current selections that are available in Michigan.
2001 Chateau Woltner Russian River Valley Chardonnay Ritchie
Vineyard, $26.99, 14.8 alc.: The last vintage of this wine that will
be produced, this pale gold shows classic Russian River Valley
Chardonnay character, with sweet toasty oak over rich ripe pear,
underscored with subtle minerality. Medium to medium full body, with a
long finish and showing a little heat, it saw 50% new and 50% old French
oak; 33% of the wine underwent malolactic fermentation. Find this wine
2003 Ladera Napa Cabernet Sauvignon, 89% Cabernet Sauvignon, 8%
Petite Verdot, 3% Merlot, $35, 14.9% alc.: Comprised from almost
equal parts Lone Canyon and Howell Mountain fruit, dark garnet blend is
smoother and more approachable than those two single vineyard bottlings,
with its sweet, spicy oak over sweet cassis, black currant and black
cherry character, supported with a little earth underneath it all. Silky
textured, with good structure and a long finish, this is very nice now,
or you can easily hold it for five years. Find this wine
2003 Ladera Napa Cabernet Sauvignon Howell Mountain, $68, 15.3% alc.:
Referred to as
Ladera’s “Gentleman Cabernet,” reflecting one side of Pat Stotesbery’s
personality, this 100% Cabernet Sauvignon is a deep, dark garnet in
color, with elegant flavors and aromas of smoky, toasty oak, cassis,
black currant and dark plum, shaded with a note of mahogany; with ample
structure, it is deep, rich, creamy long and luscious, but it too seems
to show some alcohol heat. Find this wine
2002 Ladera Napa Cabernet Sauvignon Lone Canyon, $65, 14.9% alc.:
This one is known as Ladera’s “Cowboy Cab,” reflecting the other side of
Pat’s persona, and I got a somewhat different take on this one from the
last time we tried it; this time it’s all about black currant and cassis
accented with chocolate and tobacco, being well structured, yet quite
approachable. Like
our previous
encounter with this, it again shows a little heat, but as with
the others noted here it is a minor distraction. Find this wine
It’ll be interesting to follow the progress of Ladera, as we have since
late 2004. Another
Napa producer we’ve been keeping on our radar is
Schweiger
Vineyards, and when Judie
Murdoch, ace sales representative of their Michigan
distributor Wines of Distinction, asked if
I’d like to meet and taste with
Diana Schweiger Isdahl, the daughter of winery owners
Sally
and Fred, and now in charge of
Schweiger Sales, Marketing and Public Relations, I gladly
accepted. I’ve
tasted
all but one of these previously (the Cabernet Sauvignon Port V being
the only new acquaintance), and I always enjoy seeing how they’re coming
along.
2004 Schweiger Vineyards Sonoma Valley Sauvignon Blanc Uboldi
Vineyard, $16.99, 13.5% alc.: Pale to medium straw with a slight
tinge of lime in color, and still going strong, with flavors and aromas
of garlic sweat, boxwood, gooseberry and a hint of green melon; good
cut, intensity and length, and the once subtle oak is no longer
apparent. This does everything that good Sauvignon should. Find this wine
2003 Schweiger Vineyards Napa Chardonnay Spring Mountain District,
$29.99, 14.6 alc.:
Medium straw to pale gold in color, with pure, creamy pear Chardonnay
character; well balanced, with good cut and a nice finish, and like the
Sauvignon Blanc, still going strong. Find this wine
2000 Schweiger Vineyards Napa Merlot Spring Mountain District,
$19.99, 13.9% alc.: Deep, dark ruby red in color, I enjoyed this
even more than the last time I had it, and even then, it was one of the
rare California Merlots that I could drink on a regular basis. It shows
excellent heft to the full bodied black currant and blackberry flavors
accented with a nice kiss of sweet oak, and these are reflected on the
nose as well. Still showing the good structure that got it here, it
never needed any Cabernet Sauvignon blended into it to bolster its
constitution, and is drinking very well right now. So much for the
“so-so” vintage… Find this wine
2001 Schweiger Vineyards Napa Cabernet Sauvignon Spring Mountain
District, $42.99, 13.9% alc.: Dark garnet color, with sweet, toasty
oak over delicious black currant, cassis and a hint of chocolate; shows
a lovely, smooth character with good structure and a long finish. This
one is right there, right now. Find this wine
2000 Schweiger Vineyards Napa Cabernet Sauvignon Spring Mountain
District, $19.99, 14.2% alc.: It might have been better to taste
this before the ’01, as the younger vintage is brighter and a bit more
fruit forward, while this is darker, with a more earthy personality.
Still, it shows everything it has
the last
ten times we’ve had it, so I always enjoy another sip or three,
and it’s an excellent value at this price. Find this wine
Schweiger Vineyards Napa Cabernet Sauvignon Port V Spring Mountain
District, 375 ml, $49.99,
18.9% alc.: Rich, thick and viscous, all deep, dark chocolate and
cassis in character; effusive and scrumptious. I’d have like to have
spent a little more time with this to get a more thorough take on it,
but its appeal is undeniable. Find this wine
Reporting from Day-twah,
Bastardo
Other Recent Wine Explorations
QPR All Stars: MAN Vintners
& Marqués de Cáceres
12 From the
Perrin Family
Harvest Images from Berthet-Rayne
Wicked Couch & Spit
Not Just Flotsam and Jetsam
More Wines With Friends
Wines of
Domaine Berthet-Rayne
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© George Heritier October, 2006
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