By Bastardo

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hitney Fisher was back in Michigan in early July for a wine dinner at La Dolce Vita, in Detroit. The spotlight was on the wines of her family’s Fisher Vineyards, where she has been winemaker since 2002. The event was organized by Vintage Wine Company Sales Representative Elizabeth Hammel, (shown on the right, in blue, with Whitney) who had also helped to arrange an interview with Ms. Fisher last winter. As previously reported, La Dolce Vita is one of Detroit’s best kept secrets, with its fine Italian cuisine and intimate atmosphere, made all the more special on this occasion by the fact that we were able to dine in the beautiful, Old World styled courtyard. The ambience was perfect on a warm summer’s evening, the food was quite delicious, and then, of course, there were the Wines by Fisher.
 

But first, we got things started off inside with some bubbly.

Schramsberg Sonoma Brut Rosé NV: Medium salmon pink in color; not giving much on the nose, but there’s plenty for the palate, with rich strawberry and raspberry flavors, enhanced with undertones of yeasty, earthy nuances. It exhibits a fine bead, with plenty of froth in the mouth and a long finish. Medium full bodied, this has fine presence, and even what one might describe as heft; first class domestic Brut Rosé, and quite simply delicious.

The attendees made their way to the courtyard at the appointed time, and once seated, when asked what was new with the winery, Whitney said that, among other things, the vineyards are now 100% organic. She went on to elaborate…

“We decided to make the change to this more sustainable organic practices as a result of seeing vine response to organic and biodynamic farming methods. These vines seem to better withstand environmental stresses during the growing season, particularly long stretches of very hot weather. I have done quite a bit of reading on the topic, and we are now wanting to see these results for ourselves. So far so good. Just yesterday, I was walking our vineyards with Tom Prentice, from Crop Care, who is one of our consulting viticulturalists, and he says that ours was one of the best looking organically farmed vineyards he has seen this year. We are very happy! It has added to our cost of farming, to be sure, with the extra dollars needed to deal with shoveling weeds and spraying more frequently for protection against mildew and botrytis but, we are very hopeful that the end result will be worth the added effort. Our organic Ag consultants name is Amigo Bob Cantisano, and he is currently working with some other greats in the area, including the nearby Araujo Estate and Spottswoode, along with others in the valley.”

The Fisher wines always make for enjoyable drinking, and it was a special treat to try three of them for the first time, including the following selection.

Jumbo Sea Scallop Seared, Saffron Chive Risotto and Creamy Grapefruit Sauce with Sautéed Fresh Baba Spinach

2003 Fisher Sonoma Chardonnay Whitney’s Vineyard: Only 150 cases of this medium straw colored Chardonnay were made. It saw 50% new French oak, with the remainder 1 ½ year old French oak, spending 16 months sur lies, and not undergoing 100% malolactic fermentation. Showing just the right touch of toast to the judicious kiss of sweet oak, it offers up floral, creamy green apple, pear, melon, lemon and spice in both flavor and aroma, with excellent acidity, a velvety mouth feel and rich, lovely character that continues to build through the long finish. Whitney made the point that the saffron brings out the citrus, and indeed, this is a fine match for the first course. A delicious ’96 Whitney’s Chardonnay tasted recently gives testament to their ageability, so this one should improve through at least 2010.

Grilled Free Range Duck Breast Marinated with Julianne Zucchini & Yellow Squash and Cameron Reduction

Mixed Green with Roasted Tomato Pine Nuts and Warm Goat Cheese Vinaigrette
2002 Fisher Cameron Red Wine: Much as I remember it from the last time we tasted it, this dark garnet, fading to pink at the rim, gives a kiss of sweet oak over red currant, plum and black cherry, all with nice spicy accents. Rich, not quite thick and not quite viscous, this does have a nice density to it, being round in the mouth and quite fruit forward. Tannins are moderate and not too intrusive, but there’s just a bit of a bite on the finish, due perhaps to the 14.7% alcohol level. Showing more barrel character as it opens, this made a fine match for the grilled duck, and was a favorite of the evening for at least a few tables.
 

These guys LOVE the Cameron Red Wine!

Filet of Prime Certified Angus Beef Rubbed with Smoky Spices, Grilled with Portabella Mushrooms
2002 Fisher Napa Merlot RCF Vineyard: Interesting to compare these notes to those of the '01 we’ve tasted previously, and also interesting to try in the context of being presented with other wines, rather than solo. Ruby dark garnet, fading to pink at the rim, it offers less effusive aromatics than the previous selections, showing moderate oak over red and black currants, and hints of earth and underbrush in the background; a nice note of sea air emerges with air. More expressive on the palate, with flavors that echo and expand upon the promise of the nose, moderate to medium tannins and just a bit of a bite on the finish. Not as fruit forward as the Cameron, and that's not a bad thing, as it works well with the filet of Angus.

Pistachio Crusted Rack of Lamb Roasted, Yukon Potato Cabernet Sauce
2000 Fisher Napa Cabernet Sauvignon Lamb Vineyard: This deep, dark garnet is classic Napa Cabernet, so it’s not surprising that Whitney calls it her favorite 2000. A kiss of oak graces deep, dark cassis, black currant, tobacco and cigar box perfume, and these impressions follow through beautifully on the palate, with silky tannins that don’t intrude upon the pleasure of drinking a glass or two tonight, fine acids and a long, satisfying finish. Showing a lovely balance of semi – sweet Cabernet fruit and the earthier tobacco qualities underneath, this is already drinking very well, but certainly has the structure to improve for some years yet. I received a generous first pour, so I sat and savored it for a nice little while.

Chocolate Pasta & Cream Anglais
2001 Fisher Napa Cabernet Sauvignon Coach Insignia: Another wine that we tasted last winter, and while very much as we remember, this seemed almost anti – climactic, if only in comparison to the previous selection. It lacks some of the depth and nuanced complexity of the 2000 Lamb Vineyard, but works surprisingly well with the chocolate pasta, raspberries and strawberries.

These events are always a pleasure to attend, and this one especially so. The food and wines were excellent, and everyone went home with a rosy glow, as much from Whitney’s generosity in spending time at every table with the participants as from the repast itself.  Many thanks to Whitney Fisher, Elizabeth Hammel and the fine folks at La Dolce Vita, especially Enrico Rosselli, Dean Cicala and Michael Chamas for a most memorable and enjoyable evening.

Reporting from Day-twah,

Bastardo
 

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© George Heritier July 2005