Bastardo


by Bastardo


a

Part 1 | Part 2


hitney Fisher
loves her job. As she told me during a recent bottle signing at Papa Joe's Gourmet Market in Birmingham, MI, "I drive to work every day with my dog, thinking 'I couldn't have a better life.'"

With no formal training, it was never her dream to become the winemaker at her family's Fisher Vineyards winery, which has been producing high quality wines from Napa and Sonoma for 30 years, and yet she ascended to that position in May of 2002.

"I grew up on the property and was involved in a lot of different aspects (of its operation). At the time, my father (Fred Fisher) was doing the winemaking, along with consultant Chuck Ortman. I would tag along with him, and I used to bug him, asking, 'What are you doing now? Why are you doing that? What are you going to do next?' And he'd say, 'Well, if you stick around, you'll see.' And that's actually what happened."

Still, the wine business was not in her plans early on, so she attended Princeton University, initially studying molecular biology, but finishing with a degree in American history, while doing "a lot of studio art in between."

"I'm one of those people with a lot of different interests," she says, "and it's ironic that all of those aspects that I find interesting in life have been fulfilled in the wine production side of things."

After college, Whitney wanted to get out and see things, so she took a job in the wine industry with a company that did joint ventures in such regions as South Africa, New Zealand and Western Australia. "I worked on the Sauvignon Blanc program for The Crossings in New Zealand, a project of FMG, the big insurance company," she explained. "We consulted with them as to what style they would produce, the vineyards they'd put in, the winemaking and then actually importing to the US."

She was mainly responsible for researching information for the client base; a typical assignment might involve investigating how much money it would take to buy a vineyard in South Africa, and start an operation, determining what the labor pool is like, and how, with the co-op being so strong in South Africa, to get in there and actually have quality wines made.

"It was great for me, because I loved working with the international community, and I had a lot of fun. But it got to a point where I came from a winery that was family - run, really hands - on and quality oriented, and some of the projects I was working with were more corporate, bottom line driven and so it's a very different side of the business to see, and that wasn't what I wanted to be doing. I ended up leaving that job, simply because they were demanding return on investments that were sometimes higher than 15%, and they would ask me, 'Whitney, we've got to cut winemaking costs, how do we do that?' And I'm saying, 'You want to sell your Sauvignon Blanc for $20 a bottle in the U.S. market, and you want to cut your winemaking budget? That's really not how you're going to do it.'"

So, Whitney went home to Fisher Vineyards in 1999, taking a position that was essentially that of a cellar rat, working long hours and performing such un - glamorous tasks as washing barrels and sanitizing equipment.

"I totally fell in love with it" she enthused, "it was something about the times when you're in the cellar doing work that's repetitive that's really a nice opportunity to think about things. I got a great perspective. My father's very anti - nepotism, so this was his way of introducing me to the business from the ground up, which he felt, if I were to enter the business, he would want to see. We're the kind of family where we all do everything. I'm the janitor; I clean the bathroom and take out the trash."

Taking Over the Reigns as Winemaker

When the winemaker's position opened up in 2002, Fisher's Consulting Winemaker Mia Klein suggested that Whitney was up to the challenge and that she should consider taking it over, and after giving the matter serious thought, she did.

"I really did have to think about it," she recalls. "It's a lot of responsibility, and at the end of the day, you're really holding the whole project together. So I took a couple of weeks to think, 'Is this really what I want to be in charge of and take on the responsibility for?' And I went for it, and I'm so glad I did. I have learned so much, and it's been very rewarding."

Besides working closely with the formidably talented Klein, a Tony Soter protégé whose credentials include consulting with the likes of Viader, Spottswood, Araujo, Dalla Valle and her own label, Selene Wines, Fisher recently hired Laura Harris as Assistant Winemaker, and is very enthusiastic about the great team effort that's being put forth.

"Right now, we're blending '03s and each coming up with our own ideas for blends, and then we blind taste everybody's and we've learned so much from each person coming to the table with what they think. It's really been a great experience and we just have a blast."

Fisher Vineyards has been doing extensive replanting over the last several years, particularly in the famous Wedding Vineyard, so named because it was the site of Fred and Juelle Fisher's nuptials in 1975. All but two acres were ripped out after the 2001 harvest, due to phyloxera, and redevelopment began in the spring of '02, under the direction of renowned vineyardist David Abreu. Employing closer spacing, low vigor rootstock to encourage the production of smaller, more highly concentrated fruit, planting Cabernet Sauvignon Clone 337 and other new Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot clones and even changing row direction, the hope and expectation is that ultimately, the vineyard will produce even better fruit than before.

"It's been really exciting to work with David and some of his ideas," Whitney said, "and also talking to a community of winemakers and vineyardists in the area, particularly Françoise Peschon at Araujo, who has been so supportive; she and I are talking a lot about bio - dynamic farming. We're moving into the more sustainable organic practices in the vineyard. I just went to France in December, and did a lot of research with Laura Harris and my brother Rob. I had a great time, and really walked vineyards and talked to vineyardists there, and of course, tasted a lot of great wines. I think that's really where our focus is, and for great reasons. Some of the vineyards that we're working with have huge potential; we've worked with them for over 30 years, and because of that, I think we have a real advantage in these replants, because we've already experienced having vineyards in the area for 30 years, and going into them for the second time having so many things that we're going to add, that I think, again, will just take the vines planted and the fruit to another level. In the end, that's actually what we're doing, farming, and that's the most important thing, getting that fruit to the peak phenolic ripeness, and that's really the skill, I think, that winemaking is, that and blending. Those are the two focal points of great wine, and we're honing in on that.

"'05 will be the first harvest, so you never know what you'll get and we are of the opinion that we work with the wines over time and establish that consistency that it takes to have a single vineyard be a single vineyard. You don't want to just put something out there for the sake of putting it out there; we really want it to mean something, and so we will be working and evaluating that fruit as we go along." MORE====>

 
Part 2 of Winemaker Profile: Whitney Fisher


 

Other Recent Wine Explorations

Giorgio Rivetti & the Wines of La Spinetta

A 6-Pack of Beringer

The Jarvis Blending Kit

Back to Interviews & Profiles  Index

Back to the Underground Index

Back to the Top


© George Heritier March 2005