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Find and Price Wines Reviewed In This Page
t's no secret that we like our Mr. Ridge here at Gang Central, so
when Dan and
Carol Myers inquired as to whether or not we'd be
interested in revisiting several old acquaintances at their home, of
course, we said "Of course!" So did Jim
and Faye Friedman, and since no Ridge
- fest is complete without
Alan Kerr,
aka Canadian Zinfan, we dragged him
along too. After filling our house with the marvelous aromas of good
food on the stove and in the oven all day, Kim and Alan packed up the makings for two opening food
courses, while I gathered some Lyttons and a Geyserville, and we made
our way to the Meyers household for a delightful evening of fine wine,
food and friendship.
Ridge has never made anything in the way of a sparkling wine, so because
there was a hankering for some bubbles, we had to make do with some
French stuff for starters, along with a plate of Manchego and St. Andre Triple
Crème Brie, crackers and grapes.
Bollinger Special Cuvee Brut Champagne NV, 60% Pinot Noir, 25%
Chardonnay, 15% Pinot Meunier, 12% alc.: This medium gold colored
sparkler is all about yeasty bread dough over toasty under ripe apple
and pear; it has good weight in the mouth, a fine active bead and what
Dan describes as "a really nice creamy texture." Very nice, and my
favorite of the two Champagnes opened on this occasion.
Imported by Dreyfus, Ashby & Co., New York, NY
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Dan Myers
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Jaques Selosse Blanc de Blanc Grand Cru NV, 12% alc.:
Lighter in color and in body than the Bollinger, this one immediately
showed its oak aging with what Kim describes as a "dark toast;" Alan
added impressions of "preserved lemon and a roasted hazelnut texture,"
and it has a certain smoky quality as well. Dan mentioned a
"great mineral - wet slate thing going for it," adding "Every time I
have a champagne like this, I always think I need to drink more
champagne." It features an even more active bead than the first
selection, and what it lacks in weight, it more than makes up for with a
fine sense of elegance. Very different from the Bollinger, and very
good, from what Jim describes as "a little boutique I - do - it - my - way house."
Imported by Robert Kacher Selections,
Washington, DC. USA
With all the bubbles bursted (as
Master Samwise
might say), it was time to
get on with the stars of the show.
Squash Soup with Crouton and Caramelized
Shallots
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Carol Myers &
Alan Kerr
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1999 Ridge Santa Cruz Mountains Monte Bello
Chardonnay, $23.99, 14.5% alc.: This pale gold Chardonnay has
progressed nicely since
we last had
it almost a year ago; it's showing
restrained sweet toasty oak over refined apple and pear Chardonnay
flavors and aromas that are just starting to develop a note of hazelnut.
This has a reserved, not - quite - delicate personality, along with a
velvety texture that compliments the ultra smooth
butternut
squash soup with truffle butter, crouton and caramelized shallots very nicely. Jim
found this to be more reminiscent of white Burgundy than most of your usual Left
Coast suspects, and it should continue to develop nicely for at least
another year or two.
1996
Ridge Geyserville, 75% Zinfandel, 17% Carignan, 6% Petite Sirah, 2%
Mataro, 14.9% alc.: There's just a hint of brick to the dark garnet
color of this 8 - year old Geezer, and it exudes a little smoke and a
good dose of "Draper perfume" (Dan said that he'd heard the phrase
before, but finally got it with this one) over spicy black raspberry and
blackberry flavors and aromas, with a subtle note of cream. It has a
creamy smooth texture too, with flavors that echo and expand upon the
aromatics, soft tannins, balanced acidity and a
lovely finish. Still on the way up, and yet drinking so well right now,
this has that lovely elegant balance that is Ridge at its best.
Confit of Veal Breast with
Goat Cheese Mashed Potatoes, Caramelized Pearl Onions, Wild Mushrooms
(black trumpets, chanterelles, porcini and morel), Arugula and
Veal Sauce
Reduction
 1995 Ridge Lytton Springs, 84% Zinfandel, 14% Petite Sirah, 2%
Carignan: Even visually, this one is not as dense as the Geyserville,
with the vaguest hint of brick to the dark garnet color; it's not as big
on the nose or in the mouth either, with a not - quite - restrained
Ridge perfume and black raspberry and blackberry flavors shaded with
what Mr. Kerr describes as eucalyptus and cooked beet. Kim called this
one right when she exclaimed, "Man, is this soft; it's very pretty." And
indeed, it has a lovely feel to it, with soft tannins, balanced acidity
and a somewhat creamy texture. Dan found it somewhat overripe and Port -
like, a bit of a detraction for him, while I liked it the best of the
three Lytton Springs, being absolutely delicious.
1996 Ridge Lytton Springs, 78% Zinfandel, 19% Petite Sirah, 2%
Carignan, 1% Grenache, 14.5% alc.: Jim summed it up when he remarked
about this, "It tastes a little tighter than the '95." Another dark
garnet with the vaguest hint of rust, it shows (surprise!) Draper
perfume over black raspberry and blackberry on a medium full to full
bodied frame. It's not quite silky smooth, and not quite up to the '95,
but still very nice to drink on its own terms.
Both Lyttons made a fine match for the confit
of veal breast et al, but the following
course demanded Cabernet, and a welcome old friend
is was.
 1991
Ridge Monte Bello, 85% Cabernet, 10% Merlot, 5% Petit Verdot, 13.1% alc.: "Restrained on the nose this ain't," Dan
exclaimed upon taking a whiff of this one, and no one begged to differ.
Much as we remember it from
our last taste, it's still showing little if
any brick to the deep, dark garnet color; and exudes a big perfume of
cassis, black currant, cigar box, soft chocolate with some subtle dusty
herbal qualities, all of which follow through in the flavors beautifully
with silky tannins, balanced acidity and a long, lovely finish. A joy to
drink, with or without the lamb, and while it will likely hold or
improve for some time, it's so good now, why wait?
1997 Ridge Lytton Springs, 80% Zinfandel, 15% Petite Sirah, 2%
Carignan, 2% Mataro, 1% Grenache, 14.9% alc.: Another variation on
the theme of the
previous two vintages, this one shows just a hint of brick to the dark
garnet color, with "all that Draper perfume" over black
raspberry, blackberry and sweet spice aromatics; these follow through on
the palate with some tannins that need time yet. Rich, delicious and
still somewhat youthful, this one is still a few years away from its
peak.
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Jim Friedman |
We finished off the evening with an old denizen of Jim's cellar
, one
that has held up quite well over 25 years.
Shenandoah Amador Zinfandel Port NV: While this is surely past
its peak, it has by no means run out of gas. Balanced, light on its feet
and eminently drinkable, it features a mahogany character, with
undertones of aquarium and some funky forest floor; Dan mentioned some
maple as well. All in all, a good pairing with a slice of Heath Bar
chocolate cake, courtesy of the Friedmans, and a nice finish to an excellent
evening's worth of fine food and great wine.
Many thanks to Dan and Carol for hosting this excellent affair, and to
Jim, Faye and Alan for their contributions. Next time, the party's at
Kerr's!
 Reporting from Day-twah,
Bastardo
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