The latest Day-twah tastings of Mr. Ridge, collected in one occasional report... |
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By Bastardo |
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1999 Ridge Santa Cruz Mountains Monte Bello
Chardonnay, $23.99, 14.5% alc.: We hadn't tasted this since
Ridgestock, and when we heard that a local Costco had it for the price listed, we ran right out and got some, opening one as soon as Kim could chill it down some in the fridge. The color of the second pee of the morning, it's showing toasty oak in good proportion to the pineapple, pear character that is shaded with a faint hint of butterscotch. Elegant, refined, perhaps somewhat restrained and not quite delicate, good acidity keeps this moving right along with a smooth, polished mouth feel, and some mineral on the nice finish. As it opens, some toast comes out on the nose, and a certain creaminess emerges on the palate. A very nice chardonnay that is drinking quite well, now and over the next few years. 2001 Copain Sonoma Valley Zinfandel Arrowhead Mountain, $48.99, 15.5% alc.: An initial whiff of bell pepper blows of quickly, then this deep dark garnet Zinfandel exudes bountiful aromatics of rich, dense, not quite overripe blackberry, mulberry and plum characteristics, with smoky, gamy undertones. These follow through expressively on the palate with some serious density and extraction, along with some tannins that make themselves known mainly on the finish, turning briar-brambly and showing just a little heat. An added note of chocolate emerges with air, and while one could almost characterize this as syrah-like, does that disqualify it from serious consideration, like the same descriptor does for pinot noir, in the opinion of some? I don' think so! Despite the slightly hot note on the finish, this is one impressive Zin, and it had better be, for the price tag. 1999 Nalle Sonoma Zinfandel Dry Creek, 13.5% alc.: Allan Bree wasn't far off when he described Doug Nalle's Zins to me, at least with this one: "that somewhat austere, claret style, not unlike Storybook Mountain." Ruby dark garnet in color, this features earthy blackberry, black cherry and plum flavors and aromas, with nice notes of bramble and briar. It has a sleek yet full-bodied mouth feel, being rich yet restrained at the same time, with fine tannins, balanced acidity and a nice long finish. A different expression of Zinfandel than seems to be in vogue these days, but a refreshing and satisfying one; this should improve over the next five years or so. Many thanks to Mitch Tallan for generously gifting this to Kim and this taster, who'd, perhaps surprisingly, had no experience with Nalle Zins. 2001 Neyers Contra Costa County Zinfandel Pato Vineyard, $27.99, 15.9% alc.: This exudes effusive aromatics of sweet spice, sweet oak, plum, black raspberry and blueberry, and they follow through impressively on the palate with a plush, thick, luscious mouth feel. It's not too tannic, and Dan Myers observed that it has "good fruit without being too jammy,' and he rightly noted a briary quality. Notes of coffee and maple syrup emerge with air, and my only complaint about this otherwise fine Zin is that it has a bit of an alcoholic burn on the finish. 2001 Robert Biale Contra Costa County Zinfandel Old Pato Vineyard, 15.5% alc.: We thought it would be interesting to compare this with the Neyers effort, reasoning that they must be from at least the same general location, if not the same specific vineyard, but in fact, this one suffered some in the side-by-side tasting. It's a deep dark garnet in color, with vanilla, aquarium, raspberry, cherry, briar and bramble flavors and aromas. It's not as substantial on the palate as the Neyers, and it has an almost raspberry soda pop aspect to it; it's moderately tannic, somewhat hot and finishes a little short. 2001 Seghesio Sonoma Zinfandel Old Vines, $26.99, 15.3% alc.: Shar Douglas described this dark garnet as "mushroom-y and earthy," and I detected an initial note of laundry detergent on the nose that blows off before too long. It has a spicy sweet oak, raspberry and black cherry character and a slightly fat density to it; there are some drying tannins here, but not seriously so, and it turns creamy as it opens. Very nice with Kim's fennel rubbed grilled pork tenderloin, black trumpet and morel mushroom ragout, caramelized onions, grilled polenta and pea pods. Our friend Deb Hart likened the wine to "a cozy quilt." 2001 Seghesio Alexander Valley Zinfandel Home Ranch, $27.99, 15.3% alc.: Deep dark garnet in color, with creamy blackberry and black raspberry flavors and aromas shaded with toasty overtones, this is rich and ready, and it should improve with a few years of bottle age. Some chocolate comes out with air, and while the Old Vines made this year's WS Top 100 list , it's hard to choose between these two delicious Seghesio Zins when tasted side by side. 2001 Seghesio Dry Creek Valley Zinfandel Cortina, $29.99, 15.2% alc.: A deep dark garnet with a sweet oak, raspberry and sea air bouquet that follows through in the flavors with some added chocolate, this is yet another very nice Seghesio Zinfandel. It shows soft tannins, good acidity and a nice finish, and as it opens it develops subtle floral aromatics. Not as dense as an '00 Pagani tasted just beforehand, it's balanced and fruit forward, yet elegant, Bill Lucas added an impression of "a lot of earth in there."
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