2007 Masi Masianco I.G.T., 75% Pinot Grigio delle Venezie, 25% Verduzzo, 13% alc., $14.99:

Masi Campolongo di Torbe Amarone, Mazzano Amarone
della Valpolicella Classico & Osar Rosso del Veronese

2000 Masi Osar Rosso del Veronese I.G.T., 14% alc., $91.99: This deep, dark colored red is Masi’s only single variety wine, made entirely from the Oseleta grape, an ancient Veronese variety that fell into disfavor due to its low yields. Osar means “to dare.” Masi took cuttings from just four vines for their first plantings in 1985, which are now fully mature. The grapes are not dried, but are harvested late greater concentration. This wine exudes a pretty perfume of black plum, berry and cherry, with a subtle spiciness, all of which follows though so nicely on the palate. Rich, but dry, with a slightly green quality to it and a long, lingering finish, where it turns slightly bitter, with youthful, drying tannins. I find it to be a little like Primitivo in character, but I’ve never had Primitivo with this kind of depth, and it shows excellent promise for some years of aging. Find this wine

2001 Serego Alighieri Vaio Armaron Amarone della Valpolicella D.O.C., 65% Corvina, 20% Rondinella, 15% Molinara, $69.99, 15.5% alc.: This deep, rich colored Amarone is from Masi’s partner, Count Serego Alighieri. The Vaio Armaron vineyard in Gargagnago lies 180 - 265 meters above sea level, with southwest exposure; Vaio means "little valley." Some of the wine is aged in cherry wood barrels, and it shows some in flavor and aroma, being reminiscent of big rich black cherry and black berry, ripe, but not sweet and with a subtle earthiness and hints of ash underneath it all. This is very smooth in the mouth, belying its ample structure that will allow it to age for many years. Tony calls it “a great wild game wine,” and one can taste how that would be so. Find this wine

Both of the high end Masi Amarones are remarkably similar in personality, with the differences being subtle and nuanced. They both see exactly the same vinification treatment, so Tony attributes those differences to terroir.

2001 Masi Campolongo di Torbe Amarone D.O.C., 70% Corvina, 25% Rondinella, 5% Molinara, $139.99, 16% alc.: Sourced from an historic vineyard known for producing great wines since the 12th century, this is produced in limited quantities and only in the best vintages. Exhibiting good, rich color, this is a deep, powerful wine, yet graceful at the same time, being very smooth in the mouth, with earthy dark plum, black cherry and blackberry flavors with turn slightly bitter on the finish. Earthier than the preceding Vaio Armaron Amarone or the following Mazzano, this will age effortlessly for years and yet drinks beautifully with air already. Find this wine

2001 Masi Mazzano Amarone della Valpolicella Classico D.O.C., 75% Corvina, 20% Rondinella, 5% Molinara, $181.99, 15.5% alc.: Mr. Apostalakos described the Campolongo di Torbe as “feminine,” but I think that this one is even more so. It shows the same basic earthy dark plum, black cherry and blackberry personality, but is perhaps even smoother than the previous wine; it’s a little less powerful, but certainly no less impressive. Like the previous two selections, it’s deceptively well structured for years of aging, but give it some air and it’s hard to ignore already. Find this wine

2005 Serego Alighieri Poderi del Bello Ovile Toscana I.G.T., 80% Sangiovese, 15% Canaiolo, 5% Ciliegiolo, 13.23% alc., $18.99: An afterthought that should have never been served in the same company as the Amarones, and most certainly not AFTER those lovely wines. Rough and poorly mannered by comparison; I’d like to retaste it on its own, or with a group of its peers to get a fair impression of what it’s all about. Find this wine

The most interesting thing about these last three great Amarones is that they show none of the raisined aspects that their previous versions did when I tasted them in ’04, so perhaps Masi and Serego Alighieri have made a decision to change stylistically. Tony Apostalakos described the Costasera as “modern Amarone,” and the same could be said about these. Whatever the case, they are all delicious, as is the Osar, which was another special treat to taste. Many thanks to Mr. Apostalakos and to Ryan Waltz of Remy Cointreau USA, Inc. for inviting me to attend.

Reporting from Day-twah,