Reception~Salad
François Chidaine Montlouis sur Loire

This medium straw colored wine is made with a mix from Chidaine’s youngest Chenin Blanc vines, harvested ripe to avoid any dosage; the natural residual sugar starts the second fermentation and creates the bubbles. With a good, active bead, it offers rich, smoky almost cider-like apple flavors and aromas. Our Chenin-loving buddy Jim Brennan was reminded of an “almost farmhouse ale kind of thing,” and he had a point. Bubblehead that I’ve become, I could drink this stuff on a regular basis. Find this wine

Phillip’s Spicy Crab Cakes with Butter
(Vegetarian: Paddy’s Pancakes
Crepes with Spinach and Mushroom a la Creme)
2004 Domaine de Roally Mâcon Viré-Clessé
 

We’ve loved previous vintages of this one, and it didn’t disappoint in the least, with lovely perfumed, earthy, stony dry apple and pear character. Subtle, yet rich and delicious, this has great cut and length and is a testament to Henri Goyard’s traditional methods: minimal use of fertilizers and chemical treatments, low yields, manual harvesting late in the season, bottling a year after the grapes are picked and no oak aging, so that the fruit shines through on its own. I preferred this with the very tasty crab cakes, but others commented that the following red worked better for them. Find this wine

2005 Domaine des Terres (Jean-Paul Brun) Dorees
Beaujolais l'Ancien Vieilles Vignes
 

Jean-Paul Brun is hardly a household name in most wine circles in the US, but he is an icon to those who are devoted to “real wine.” Our own Larry Meehan (accompanied by Jon Cook, Kira Maximovich and Mike Lawton) made a pilgrimage to Brun’s doorstep a few years back, and Joe Dressner was responsible for making the arrangements. This particular wine comes from 50-70 year old vines planted in limestone soil, and ferments on indigenous yeasts rather than the industrial 71B stuff that predominates among far too many producers in Beaujolais. It delivers rich, earthy flavors and aromas reminiscent of red berries and cherries, with good structure and a velvet-like texture; not exactly an “iron fist in a velvet glove,” but it does strike a nice balance. Pure, unadulterated Gamay at its best; I actually enjoyed this with the following food course. Find this wine

Kenodare Leek, Potato and Cheese Pie
2005 Domaine Thomas-Labaille Sancerre Rouge Chavignol
 

Joe calls this Loire Pinot Noir “a curiosity and a rarity in America,” and I have to admit, it’s only the 2nd one I’ve ever tried. It’s not a complex wine, nor is it intended to be, with middleweight strawberry and tart cherry flavors underscored with some subtle minerality. Raised in foudre, this is quintessential bistro wine, being eminently quaffable, although a few tasters were only lukewarm towards it. Find this wine

2005 Claude & Catherine Maréchal Bourgogne Rouge Cuvée Gravel
 

Dressner says that this wine doesn’t come from a great site, but that the talented Claude Maréchal compensates with plowed vineyards, low yields, no sulfur or herbicides being used and natural fermentation without adding yeast. The intent is to make a wine with purity of fruit, and in that regard, he has succeeded admirably, because this is pretty and simply a pleasure to drink, offering earthy, smoky black cherry flavors and aromas shaded with some hints of underbrush. Already quite approachable in its youth, this is one to enjoy over the next five years or so.  Find this wine

Bandon Beer Stew
(Vegetarian: Baile Corcaigh Potato Slices with
Chopped Scallions and Grated Irish Cheddar)
2004 Mouthes le Bihan Vieillefont Côtes-de-Duras
 

Côtes-de-Duras, a large appellation with 2200 hectares of vines (5500 acres) could be considered a satellite of Bordeaux or Cahors, though it makes mostly forgettable wines targeted for supermarket sales in France. Catherine and Jean-Mary Le Bihan are apparently among the exceptions to that rule, as this wine demonstrates. It’s a red Bordeaux blend from 20 to 30 year old vines with a lot of Malbec in it, aged in oak, but not new oak. There was some discussion between those seated at our table and the next as to whether the somewhat funky quality that this displays is due to Brettanomyces or not, but whatever the case, it is a little poopy when first poured, with a solid core of earthy black fruit that’s a little bit spicy. It also pairs well with the beer stew.  Find this wine
 

Clonakilty Corned Beef and Cabbage
(Vegetarian: Piperonata Pasta with Grated Irish Cheddar)
2004 Mas Saint-Joseph Costières-de-Nîmes Cuvée L'Aventure
 

This Rhône estate is a one-plot, 18 hectares operation that produces Syrah (more than is common locally), Grenache and Carignan, with vines that average 30 years of age. It didn’t give me much at all on the nose, although Kim mentioned a little pine and sweaty arm pit, and she was on to something, because the deep, dark black fruit flavors showed a definite piney undertone and even some earthy boxwood and cat pee. (Kim and Jim B. both agreed with me in that regard, so if I’m crazy, it was contagious that evening.) An interesting wine that displays some of the more extreme characteristics that can be occasionally found in Syrah-dominated wines, and yes, it really did work with the corned beef and cabbage! Find this wine
 

2004 Mas des Chimères Coteaux-du-Languedoc
 

Our experience with Mas des Chimères goes back to our earliest days of Gang of Pour, so we never mind having another glass or two of this old friend. Comprised of about 60% Syrah and rounded out with Grenache and dollops of Cinsault and Mourvedre, it’s a straightforward offering after the wild and wooly Mas Saint-Joseph, but that’s not to say it’s insipid or boring in any way, as it delivers rich red and black fruit flavors and aromas. Very easy to drink and enjoy, and while some preferred it with the corned beef, I’d opt for the previous selection, but that’s just the kind of hair pin I am. Find this wine
 

Darina’s Traditional Bread and Butter Pudding
Quinta do Infantado Tawny Port NV
 

We’re already fans of Quinta do Infantado Ruby Port, so while we were happy to try this one and enjoyed it with the delicious bread and butter pudding, I was so preoccupied with my notes on what Joe was telling us about this producer, I never did record any impressions of the wine itself. Will it suffice to say that Kim and I liked it quite well? I guess it’ll have to!

I can tell you this, however: Quinta do Infantado is essentially a “grower Port” house. It produced the first estate bottled Portos in the Duoro, and was the first to export them as well; are all (including the Rubies and Tawnies) made from Class A vineyards (the highest classification), as opposed to the large shippers who source from Class E and F vineyards for their versions. Or as Joe Dressner puts it, with the large shippers, Ruby=generic and Tawny=generic, while with Quinta do Infantado, it’s first class all the way. The reader can find a far more detailed explanation of just what makes this producer so special here. Suffice it to say that we like Quinta do Infantado so much, we have to exercise some restraint in opening them, because they have a tendency to “evaporate” quickly. Find this wine

It was a great evening, and many kudos to Cloverleaf’s Putnam Weekley and Tom Natoci for arranging the affair. Likewise to Baile Corcaigh proprietors Leo and Sharon Mooney Malinowski for providing a warm ambience and delicious menus for both carnivores and vegetarians alike. And of course, many thanks to Joe Dressner for not only making a rare appearance in Day-twah, but for doing what he, wife Denyse Louise and business partner Kevin McKenna do so well, which is finding and bringing “real wine” to the US, giving wine lovers here a delicious alternative to the ocean of industrial plonk and overpriced, manipulated designer foo-foo that permeates the domestic marketplace. Way to go, Joe!

Reporting from Day-twah,