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For
the last few
years, the folks at
Beam Global Spirits and
Wine, Inc. put on a traveling road show featuring some of the wares of
Geyser Peak,
one of the wineries under their corporate umbrella. As Beam’s Michigan District
Manager Ryan Waltz explained, it provides an
opportunity for ITB (in the biz) types to get together and have some fun
evaluating wines in a blind tasting. More to the point however, it sets two
Geyser Peak Reserve reds up against six more prestigious selections, with the
express intent of showing that their wines will more than hold their own against
the higher priced spreads, and sometimes perhaps even surpass them in flavor and
charm. There were two flights of four wines each, the first being Meritage type Bordeaux red blends, and the second Cabernet Sauvignons. Each flight was rated in order of preference, with totals compiled afterwards. While we were waiting to get started, we sipped on two of Geyser Peak’s current every day whites. |
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2006 Geyser Peak California Sauvignon Blanc, 13% alc.,
$7.99-9.99: Medium color, with a gooseberry and boxwood nose that follows
through on the palate with decent intensity and good acids. A pleasant enough quaffer, showing good varietal character, 50% of which was sourced from the
Russian River Valley, with the remainder coming from Alexander Valley and
“elsewhere.”
2005 Geyser Peak Alexander Valley Chardonnay, 13.5% alc., $9.99-11.99: Medium straw color with a tinge of lime; all big toasty oak on the nose, with more of the same in the mouth, with a good dose of ripe pear, tropical fruit, a hint of lemon and a little mineral. Full bodied, without excessive weight, but fairly low in acidity. Not my type of Chardonnay, but it does have its fans.
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Once again, all four wines show good, rich, dark color.
A) All toast and coffee on the nose, with more of the same on the palate, accenting rich black currant and blackberry flavors with a hint of underbrush underneath. Just a little rough at first, but full bodied, well structured, long on the finish and quite tasty. One taster was heard to comment on what she perceived as an “oily, petrol-y finish.” My second place wine of the flight, but the one with the most first place votes.
5 first place votes/ 4 second place votes/ 3 third place votes/ 2 fourth place votes
B) Toasty oak and cassis nose; rich, round and fairly expressive, with a refined, silky mouth feel; a note of something like violets caresses the toasty oak, cassis and black currant flavors and some maple syrup emerges with air. This one received my first place vote of the flight, but had we been given more time to consider these, things might have been different. The same taster who deemed wine B in the first flight the “most cellar worthy” of those had similar compliments for this, which I found most interesting, since both turned out to be Geyser Peak wines and said taster is a seasoned veteran of these blind evaluations.
2 first place votes/2 second place votes/ 4 third place votes/ 6 fourth place votes
C) Almost no nose on this, maybe just a little tar; tarry black fruit in the mouth, being full-bodied and well structured, but coming off a little clumsy after the previous selection. With a little air, it smoothes out nicely, tasting like what I might expect from this producer, and the closest thing to old world in character of any of these, although one taster said the same of the following wine. My third place wine of the flight.
3 first place votes/5 second place votes/ 4 third place votes/ 2 fourth place votes
D) Modest berry and currant nose, with rich flavors that echo and expand, accented with a hint of herbaceousness; full bodied and well structured, but a step behind the previous selection. However, this showed the most dramatic evolution with air, and had we been able to spend a little more time with it, my ranking might well have jumped at least one place. One taster described this as “mossy, earthy and old world.” My fourth place wine of the flight, but the group’s second.
4 first place votes/3 second place votes/ 2 third place votes/ 4 fourth place votes
Wine A seems to have been the group’s favorite, with Wine D second, Wine C third and Wine B bringing up the rear. The wines in the order tasted were:
A) 2002 Caymus Napa Cabernet Sauvignon Special
Selection - $140 Find this wine
B) 2004 Geyser Peak Alexander Valley Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve - $50 Find this wine
C) 2003 Robert Mondavi Napa Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve - $110 Find this wine
D) 2003 Darioush Napa Cabernet Sauvignon - $70 Find this wine
Although the Geyser Peak Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve was clearly the least favorite of the group, it still held its own and certainly didn’t suck. I came away from this taste-off with a better impression for these two Reserves than I did from what we tasted five years ago, and we tried those previous incarnations and a few others then as well. I have to admit that Ryan and the fine folks from Vintage Wine made something of a case for their claim that Geyser Peak Reserves offer good alternatives to the pricier big name heavy hitters from California.
Reporting from Day-twah,
Bastardo
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© George Heritier October, 2007