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es,
as is usually the case this time of year, we’ve been drinking a
disproportionate share of whites during the warm weather months. I mean,
who wants to drink heavy reds with all this heat? OK, so we DO open some
of them too, but we make damn sure that they are cooled down to around
56 degrees F when we pull those corks. Still, we do better than a 60/40
ratio of whites to reds from May through September. Some have
already been noted in the last Underground installment, while the best
of the rest is presented for your consideration below. You’ll find some
new versions of old friends, and some new acquaintances as well, so read
on, McDuff!
2003 Domaine Séguinot-Bordet
Chablis Vieilles Vignes, $23.49, 12.5%
alc.: Wines from this producer
are always
welcome at Gang Central, and this bottle gives testimony as
to why. Pale to medium straw in color, it offers flavors and aromas of
wet stones, river water, under ripe apples and a hint of citrus; it has
enough acidity to carry it along nicely, but it’s not as crisp as these
usually are, probably due to the heat extremes of the vintage. Indeed,
there’s a certain "soft" quality here that doesn’t bother me at all, and
the wine shows good concentration and nice length on the finish. Best of
all, it makes a fine match for smoked chicken on the back deck on a hot
summer eve, so buy it in numbers and drink it now and over the next few
years. Find this wine |
2001 Domaine Séguinot-Bordet
Chablis Fourchaume, $19.99, 12.5% alc.:
The first Premier Cru we’ve had from Séguinot-Bordet, and a very
fine one indeed; Kim’s first impressions of this medium gold colored
Chablis are "pine needles and smoke," and these flesh out with flinty,
under ripe apples, quince and hints of bees wax, butterscotch and
rainwater. Rich, and yet bone dry at the same time, this has excellent
presence, good cut and a long finish, and is already showing some nice
notes of maturity. This one is right where I like it, but others might
want to cellar it for as long as five more years. Either/or... Find this wine
2004 Domaine Thibert Pere et Fils
Mâcon-Prissé "En Chailloux,"
$19.49, 13% alc.: Another J et R Selections white
we’ve been
fond of in past vintages, this medium straw also lives up to the
high expectations we had for it. A whisp of Creme Brulée and an
undercurrent of stony minerality nicely accent the rich, pretty apple
and pear fruit in both flavor and aroma, and a note of citrus-lime adds
interest, complexity and appeal for this taster. Medium full body, with
good cut and good length on the finish, this (like the other Thibert and
Séguinot-Bordet wines) offers excellent QPR for what’s in the bottle. Find this wine
2001 Domaine Thibert
Pouilly-Vinzelles, $14.99, 13% alc.: Yet
another J et R Selection / Domaine Thibert white that we’ve had
a
favorable experience with in the past, this pale gold runs the
string by once again giving plenty of pleasure for relatively few
dollars. On the nose, it gives rainwater, hazel nuts, butterscotch and
Creme Brulée in moderate amounts; the Creme Brulée recedes on the
palate, while the other components come to the fore, along with some
under ripe apple, all on a crisp medium to medium full bodied frame.
Plenty of length here, as well as some initial notes of maturity, and
while this has plenty of aging potential, we’ll probably drink up the
other four we brought home over the next year or two for the fresh
character that they should retain during that time. Find this wine
Domaine Séguinot-Bordet & Domaine Thibert Imported by
J et R Selections, Mount Pleasant, MI
2002 Monmouseau Sancerre, $14.99, 12.5% alc.: This medium straw
colored Sauvignon is one of the flintiest wines we’ve had in a long
time; it’s all flint, quince and under ripe apple, with good intensity,
excellent cut and a nice long finish, all on a medium to medium full
bodied frame. Initially somewhat austere, this just gets better and
better as it opens in the glass, and offers great QPR for the tariff. I
like it well enough to have brought more home after the bottle noted
here. Find this wine
Imported by USA Wine Imports, Inc., New York, NY
2003 Karl Erbes
Ürziger Würzgarten
Mosel Saar Ruwer
Riesling Auslese, $34.99, 8% alc.:
I quite enjoyed the ‘04 Erbes Ürziger Würzgarten
Kabinett
a few weeks back. When a bottle turned up in my department with a
discolored capsule, the distributor rep, Mariann Valentino replaced it
and gave me the bottle in question to take home, on the chance that it
was not otherwise flawed, which happily turned out to be the case.
Medium straw to pale gold in color, with lovely aromatics of honey,
peach and apricot highlighted with some steely petrol, all of which echo
and expand on the palate; sweet and unctuous, with enough acids to make
it all work nicely and excellent length on the finish. Lovely wine, now
and for some years down the road. I’d pour this one after dinner, but it
would probably work with some spicy Thai or Indian cuisine as well. Find this wine
Imported by Chapin Cellars LLC, Springfield, VA
2004 Chateau la Cariziere Muscadet Sevre et Maine Sur Lie, $11.99:
Muscadet is THE classic match for any shellfish, especially oysters
and mussels, which makes sense in a way, since the Muscadet appellation
is further west than any other in France’s Loire Valley; any
further west, and you’d be wading in the Atlantic. All of the
wines from this region bearing the name Muscadet are made from the
Melon de Bourgogne grape, not exactly a "household" name in these
parts, but those familiar with it hold a special place in their hearts
for it. This particular selection is quite representative of the
varietal, with its medium straw color and flavors and aromas that are
something like a blend of river water, wet stones, under-ripe apples and
citrus characteristics; the fruit almost seems rich and austere at the
same time. It's medium full bodied, with excellent acidity and a long
finish. I had the pleasure of tasting this and the Hermine d’or
Muscadet Sevre et Maine Sur Lie with their maker,
Joseph Landron
a few weeks ago, and both the wines (completely organically
produced) and the man were delightful to spend some time with. Besides
shellfish, the Chateau la Cariziere will pair well with
any lighter seafood. Find this wine
2004
The Furst Riesling Alsace, $11.99: Anyone who’s never had a fine
Alsatian dry Riesling is in for a treat, and here’s one that’s both
delicious and quite affordable. Pale to medium straw in color, it offers
green apple, quince and mineral flavors and aromas accented with a
distinctive herbal undertone that struck my fancy when I first tasted
it, and really sets the tone for the wine’s personality. It features
zippy acidity, solid
presence and a nice finish. And since Riesling is one of, if not the
most versatile of all wines, red or white, it goes with a remarkably
wide range of foods. Find this wine
Chateau la Cariziere and The Furst Imported by
Eagle
Eye Imports LLC, Bloomfield Hills, MI
2004 Domaine Weinbach Gewürztraminer Reserve Personelle,
$29, 13.5% alc.: Find this wine
2004 Domaine Weinbach Gewürztraminer Cuvee Theo,
$35, 13.5% alc.: Find this wine
Both of these lovely wines show rich golden color and quintessential
peach and litchi Gewürztraminer character that are more impressive than
these simple descriptors would indicate; both have good weight without
being heavy, an oily, voluptuous texture, with just enough acidity to
make them both work, and very good length on the finish. These give the
impression of sweetness upon entry, but they’re not really; nor are they
terribly complex at this point, but both compensate in other ways and
are sure to develop with some time in the bottle. These were tasted
about one week apart, so the comparison is from memory, but
nevertheless, I found both to be delicious to sip and savor over several
hours.
2002 Travis Monterey Chardonnay Riverside Vineyard, $11.99: This
medium straw colored white gives pure Chardonnay pear flavors, shaded
with mineral, canned peas and asparagus that add to, rather than detract
from the appeal; it’s unadorned by oak, having been fermented and aged
entirely in stainless steel. It’s also unfiltered, so if you chill it
down too much, it seems a bit cloudy, but don’t let that put you off;
everyone I’ve poured this for has really enjoyed it. Medium full bodied,
with good acids, a smooth texture and a long finish that combine to make
for one eminently drinkable glass of wine. This is a big favorite at our
house; we’ve already gone through a case in the last month, and now
we’re working on a second! If you can still find this, buy it all up;
the ‘03 is going to take quite a price jump (mid to upper teens), from
what I’ve been told. Find this wine
2004
Castle Rock Central Coast Chardonnay, $9.99,13.8% alc.: I got a
sample of this along with a number of the more visible Castle Rock reds,
and was quite surprised at how much I liked it. Pale straw in color, and
pleasantly light on the oak treatment, with straightforward apple, pear
Chardonnay character, nice fruit that isn’t at all overripe and
undertones of mineral and rainwater that add interest and complexity.
Medium to medium full body and balanced acidity make this very food
friendly, unlike so many fat assed, low acid California Chardonnays.
Excellent QPR. Find this wine
2005 Crios de Susana Balbo Torrontes Cafayette, $15.99: Torrontes
is another grape varietal that’s anything but a household name, except
maybe unless you live in Argentina. Thought to have originated in the
Mediterranean region, it is now grown on the Iberian Peninsula and in
Argentina, where it has assumed something of a national identity, being
the white wine most associated with that country, much as Malbec is with
reds. For me, much of the appeal of this medium straw colored wine comes
from the lovely floral overtones to the apple and tropical fruit flavors
and aromas; it’s almost like drinking honey suckle and orange blossoms,
with a hint of mint. The fruit has very good intensity, with subtle
mineral undertones, good acidity and a long finish. A wine of immense
appeal, this matches well with spicy Thai dishes, crab cakes and any
full flavored seafood. Find this wine
Imported by Vine Connections, Sausalito, CA
2004 La Noble Chardonnay Vin de Pays D’OC, $8.99, 13% alc.: This isn’t just the best $9 Chardonnay in the house; it
actually drinks better than a number of more expensive models. It shows
solid varietal character, offering crisp apple flavors, with soft herb
and mineral in support, unfettered by oak, and thus allowing the nice
fruit to perfectly express itself. This will match well with a wide
variety of the "usual" fish and fowl suspects, green salads or serve
admirably for just sipping on the back deck. Find this wine
Imported by Hand Picked Selections, Warrenton, VA
Reporting from Day-twah,
Bastardo
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Other Recent Wine Explorations
Home Alone
in Day-Twah
Following Up
Part Deux
Following Up
A Rosé By Any Other Name
More Red Wings and
Red Rhônes 2006
5 From Palm Bay
Imports
4 By Egelhoff
Back to July '06 Index
Back to the Underground
Index
Back to the Top
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© George Heritier July 2006
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