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he
Detroit Red Wings head into the
2006 Stanley Cup Playoffs
having proven the pundits wrong, those so-called experts who
predicted that the boys wearing the winged wheel on their jerseys would
finish well down in the standings in the “new” NHL. All the Wings
did was win the Presidents' Trophy, given to the team with the best
regular-season record and set a league record for road victories. Eight
players had twenty goal seasons, and several set personal bests or
passed league milestones, and at 42 years of age, Captain Steve
Yzerman has looked like a kid of 35 over the last few months. But
now the “new season” starts, with Detroit opening against the
Edmonton Oilers in the first round. If the Wings can maintain their
winning ways, they’ll have home ice advantage all the way through the
Stanley Cup Finals, but that’s no small task. These are the playoffs and
the playoffs are war on ice. As has become our tradition, we’ll do our
part by conjuring up some red Rhône mojo, which seemed to be pretty
effective throughout this latest campaign. Here’re our impressions of
what we tasted over the last two months:
2000
Château de Montmirail Vacqueyras Cuvée des Saints Papes, $22, 13.5%
alc.: This deep, dark garnet Vacqueyras is a bit tight on the nose
at first, but the aromatics do open with air to show much of the big,
rich dark plum and berry character with earth, iron, garrigue and
chocolate accents that the flavors so generously offer. A big dose of
tannins can’t clamp down completely on the impressive fruit, and the
wine already shows a delicious depth of flavor, getting better and
better with air, but of course, it has years of improvement left ahead
of it. A 10-year wine and more from a producer whose wines we’ve
greatly enjoyed in the past. Find this wine |
Imported by
J et
R Selections, Mount Pleasant, MI 2001 Melodie d’Amour Cotes du Rhône Villages
Chusclan, $14.99, 13.5% alc.: We liked the 2000 version of this wine
just fine, and we like this dark garnet even better, if perhaps for
unlikely reasons. It offers earthy plum, prune and underbrush on the
nose, with plenty more of everything in the mouth, plus some understated
chocolate - cocoa and a decidedly smoky quality that emerges with air.
The smooth texture here belies the solid structure, and there’s good
length on the finish, and while this is another 10-year wine, it too
gets better and better with air. What I like most about this is the
toned-down chocolate-cocoa doesn’t dominate like it did with
the 2000; it shows better balance and a more traditional character,
and I’ll always take that over a milkshake or a candy bar. Find this wine
Imported by A French Paradox, Inc., Peoria, IL
2003
Domaine Richaud Côtes du Rhône Villages Cairanne, $32, 14% alc.:
This deep, dark garnet shows marvelous concentration without being at
all over the top, delivering a complex mixture of earthy, rich black
plums and berries, iron, smoke, garrigue and some subtle leather. The
wine shows excellent balance and structure, with significant tannins
that clamp down some on the long, dusty finish. Easily a 10-year wine,
and just as easily one of the best Rhônes we’ve had so far in ’06, so
good in fact, that I won’t even gripe about the price tag. A blend of
“Grenache, Syrah and Mourvèdre from poor, stony clay-limestone mid-slope
plots” according to the Louis/Dressner website. Find this wine
2004 Domaine Richaud Côtes du Rhône
Villages Terre d’Aigues, $21, 13.5% alc.: This dark garnet doesn’t
give much more on the nose than some earth and a little cola, and in the
mouth, the fairly bright fruit seems to indicate a good dose of
Grenache, with blackberries, raspberries and strawberries all wrapped
around a solid, earthy core. Medium full bodied, with good
concentration, medium tannins, good acidity and a decent finish, this
gets better and brighter as it opens. As I suspected, the Louis/Dressner
website confirms that the wine is “from younger Grenache and Carignan
vines growing on alluvial soil along the river Aigues.” Nice stuff.
Find this wine
Domaine Richaud Wines are
Louis/Dressner
Selections – Imported by LDM Wines, Inc., New York, NY
2000
Domaine Brusset Côtes du Rhône Villages Cairanne Cuvée Hommage à Andre
Brusset, 13.5% alc.: Dark garnet, fading to pink at the rim, with
stingy aromatics that don’t give much indication of the nice earthy
leather, dark plum and soft underbrush flavors that follow; medium full
bodied, with moderate tannins, fairly low acidity and a fairly long
finish. Rustic, much more so than the following wine, and I like that,
because it’s my kind of southern Rhône, and it’s ready to drink now and
over the next few years. My only problem with this is the wholesale
price, which is downright stupid, in my not so humble opinion, and would
necessitate a retail tariff in excess of $40. When I told that to the
importer-distributor who was floating this and the following wine to
gauge interest, he said he’d rethink it and get back to me. I’m still
waiting after more than a month…Find this wine
2001
Domaine Delubac Côtes du Rhône Villages Cairanne l’Authentique, 14%
alc.: Another dark garnet, fading to pink at the rim, showing only a
little earth and petroleum (?) on the otherwise reticent nose; Kim
described it as “freshly dug potatoes and dirt.” Brighter and livelier
in the mouth than the Domaine Brusset, with earthy, somewhat smoky dark
plums and berries, nice spicy accents, good tannins and zippy acidity.
This smoothes out with air as the acids tone down, and after three
hours, it evolves into a very nice southern Rhône in a style that I
favor, but it’s not close to peaking yet, so give it another three to
five years if you happen to run into it. The suggested wholesale price
warrants a $29 – 30 retail price, which again, is pushing it, if you ask
me. Still waiting for those adjusted prices…Find this wine
2003 Domaine Berthet-Rayne Châteauneuf du
Pape, $29.99, 14.5% alc.: Dark garnet in color, and though not
giving much on the nose when we tried it, the flavors are much more
generous, with earthy black plums and berries accented with cola, smoke
and earthy mineral. Good structure bodes well for several years of aging
and improvement, and like many good Rhônes, it opens and improves with
air, smoothing out and offering more of everything. This will likely
never be a “great” Châteauneuf du Pape, but it’s already a pretty good
one, and worth the price tag.
Find this wine
Imported by
Eagle Eye
Imports, Bloomfield Hills, MI
1999 Domaine de l’Espigouette Côtes du
Rhône Villages, $10.49, 13.5% alc.: Dark garnet color, with leather,
smoke, cola and dark berries and plums on the nose; flavors echo loud
and delicious, with good structure and a finish that lingers longer than
one has a right to expect for so few greenbacks. It really opens with
only half an hour in the glass, turning rich, ripe and spicy, and
displaying classic Côtes du Rhône Villages character. This one already
gives much pleasure, but its best days are yet to come.
Find this wine
Imported by J et R Selections, Mount Pleasant, MI
2004
Saint Cosme Côtes du Rhône, $17.99, 13.5% alc.: Dark garnet color,
fading to pink at the rim, with a reticent nose of ripe meat and red
fruit; on the palate this is all about earth, iron and black plums,
currants and berries, with none of the chocolate
previously noted in the
last few vintages. An initial rough, burry quality smoothes out with
air, and this has the structure to improve for four or five years. I was
going to say that it’s a solid, if unexceptional CdR, but once again, it
continues to open with air, getting better and better; perhaps the best
way to describe it is to say that it’s not flashy, it’s just real wine.
I’d like it even more for a few dollars less, but hey, this is Michigan.
Find this wine
Imported by
The Stacole
Company, Boca Raton, FL
2004 Domaine de la Mordorée Côtes du Rhône,
14.99, 13.5% alc.: Ruby dark garnet color, with perfumed red berries
and plums shaded with violet overtones; the earthy flavors echo, gaining
a note of cocoa and a hint of dog fur. Medium full body, with a decent
finish, but seems to lack character, coming off a bit simple, with too
much cocoa for my taste. This is a good $8 – 9 Côtes du Rhône, but for
this price, spend a buck more and get yourself an
Domaine le Couroulu Vacqueyras (sorry, the price of that one
went up since we reviewed it, but it’s still worth it).
Find this wine
Imported by
Kysela Pere et Fils,
Ltd., Winchester, VA
GO RED WINGS!!!
Reporting from Day-twah,
Bastardo
Other Recent Rhône Explorations
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and Red Rhônes 2006
Red Wings and Red Rhônes:
The Boys Are Back In Town!
Red Rhônes sans Red Wings
Rednecks & Red
Rhônes
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© George Heritier January 2006
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