|
|
t’s
not that we don’t like rosé here at Gang
Central, we do. It’s just that for some reason they’ve flown
mostly under our radar hereabouts. Sure, we keep a stash of
Domaine Tempier around, but that’s been about it, at least until
these past few months. That’s when I put the word out to my
operatives that I was looking for some good pink stuff to feature in the
departments that I run, and they came through for me big time.
For the uninitiated, “true” rosés are
made by removing the skins from red grapes during the winemaking
process, before the full color has been extracted from them, but some
others are made by bleeding off excess free run juice shortly after the
crushed red grapes have gone into the fermentation tanks, a process
known as
saignée. There are also those that are made by simply
blending red and white wines together. Lighter in color and weight than
red wines, they still maintain some of their flavor characteristics, and
make excellent choices for enjoying with a variety of foods, especially
picnic-type fare, and their popularity is definitely on the rise in
these parts. Here are our impressions of nine of our favorites that
we’ve tasted lately.
2004 Mas Carlot Cuvée Tradition
Rosé, $12.99, 13.5% alc.: This raspberry pink colored wine strikes
me as being the quintessential rosé, dry yet fairly fruit forward, with
nice raspberry and strawberry flavors, good acidity and a decent finish.
A perfect match for ham prepared in any variety of ways, as are all of
these listed here. Made from bleeding tanks of Syrah and Grenache,
according to Bob Parker. Find this wine
|
Imported by Robert Kacher Selections,
Washington, D.C.
2003 Condesa de Leganza Tempranillo Rosé, $7.99, 13% alc.:
Undoubtedly the earthiest rosé I’ve ever tasted, and in this case,
that’s a very good thing. This raspberry pink is a QPR All Star; with
its earthy strawberry and watermelon character, it would be a great
choice to pair with tapas, the small portion snacks that are so popular
in Spain, and increasingly so in the U.S. as well. It will also work with
just about anything else that a good rosé goes with as well, such as
ham, pasta, salads, chicken and seafood. Find this wine
Imported by Imported by Palm Bay Imports, Boca Raton, FL
2004
Domaine du Grand Cros Côtes de Provence Rosé, $8.99, 14% alc.:
Salmon pink, with a solid rainwater, strawberry and watermelon profile
underscored with earth and mineral; medium to medium full bodied, with
good concentration, excellent cut and just a little heat, but not unduly
so. Good value here. Made from Grenache, Cinsault and Syrah. Find this wine
Imported by World Shipper & Importers Co., Philadelphia,
PA
2004 Commanderie de la Bargamone Coteaux d'Aix en Provence Rosé,
$14.99, 13% alc.: This has been a favorite of mine since I
first
tasted the ’01 about three years back; peachy pink in color, it offers
mineral, apple, strawberry and watermelon flavors and aromas, and while
it’s not exactly fruit forward, in this case, that’s a good thing.
Classic Provencal dry rosé, and most food friendly, but be sure not too
chill this one too much, because you’ll mask some of the more subtle
characteristics. “Made from equal parts of Grenache and Cinsault, spiced
with Syrah, it is bottled young and stays fresh for several years
although most is consumed within 12 months of bottling,”
according to
the importer, and indeed, we had a bottle that had been “lost” in the
cellar for two years or so last summer, and it was delicious. Find this wine
Imported by Hand Picked Selections, Warrenton, VA
2004 Château de Lancyre Pic Saint-Loup Rosé, $13.99, 13.5% alc.:
The
reds from this producer are among my very favorites from the
Languedoc, and this strawberry pink lives up to their
quality level, with its mineral, rainwater, strawberry and watermelon
flavors and aromas. Medium full bodied, it has good acidity and it’s a
little more fruit forward than the Commanderie de la Bargamone (both
were tasted on the same occasion), but not much. Another classic dry
rosé, and one that will pair well with a wide variety of foods; a blend
of 60% Grenache, 40% Syrah. Find this wine
Imported by Hand Picked Selections, Warrenton, VA
2004 Domaine Ott Les Domaniers de Puits Mouret Côtes de Provence
Rosé, $18.49, 12.5% alc.: Salmon pink, silky smooth and definitely a
step above most of the others noted here, with by far the best nose of the
bunch, and rainwater, mineral, watermelon and strawberry flavors and
aromas. Beautifully balanced, with perfect acids and a long finish, and
while not an estate wine from Bandol’s famed Domaine Ott, this is still
one of the very best rosés we’ve had in a long time. (Note to self: it would be fun to
try this along side the Commanderie de la Bargamone to see how they
compare.) Find this wine
Imported by Maisons Marques & Domaines USA Inc., Oakland,
CA
2002 Illuminati Campirosa Montepulciano d’Bruzzo Cerasuolo, $11.99,
12.5% alc.: Slightly cloudy cranberry pink, this offers deeper,
darker flavors than your average dry rosé, almost coming off like a
Montepulciano d’Bruzzo Lite, with earthy raspberry, cherry and
strawberry flavors and aromas, all accented with subtle hints of
underbrush. It has good weight and intensity, and gives a unique
regional twist to the “rosato” theme. Find this wine
Imported by Tricana Inc., Plainview, NY
2003 Château Le Grand Moulin Bordeaux Rosé, $10.49, 12% alc.:
Darker in both color (almost, but not quite ruby garnet) and fruit
flavor than your average rosé, this offers a broad spectrum of medium
bodied, medium intensity black and red currants and berries, finishing
with a decidedly strawberry flair. With fairly low acidity and a decent
finish, this will match well with grilled burgers and sausages, and even
do well with pizza. 100% Cabernet Sauvignon. Find this wine
Imported by Peerless Importing Co., Jackson, MI
2004 Florent de Brie Rosé d’Anjou, $10.49, 11% alc.: Salmon pink
color, showing straightforward strawberry and watermelon flavors and
aromas, shaded with a hint of rainwater; this has fairly low acidity and
just enough sweet fruit to appeal to a white zinfandel drinker who’s
looking to take a step up in quality while still keeping it pink. 30%
Gamay, 70% Grolleau. Find this wine
Imported by Peerless Importing Co., Jackson, MI
Reporting from Day-twah,
Bastardo
Other Recent Wine Explorations
More Red Wings and
Red Rhônes 2006
5 From Palm Bay
Imports
4 By Egelhoff
More New Wines From
Wyncroft
Cassoulet Fest with
Wines From the Languedoc
Back to
May '06 Index
Back to the
Underground
Index
Back to the Top
© George Heritier May 2006
|