Introduction | Terroir | 8 Great Producers | Pinots of the World | Other Notable Pinots | Conclusion

 

Grand Tasting—Other Notable New Zealand Pinots

Between the various guided seminars reported in the previous segments, Pinot 2007 provided numerous opportunities to taste a wide cross-section of the pinot noirs currently produced in New Zealand. One hundred producers of pinot participated in three separate Grand Tastings, giving all of the participants of Pinot 2007 plenty of chances to try both old favorites, and newcomers on the New Zealand pinot landscape.

So the following are some brief notes on wineries that stood out in the Grand Tastings. As is typical in these kinds of “walk-around” mass tastings, formal tasting notes simply aren’t possible—too crowded, too many distractions, and no opportunity to write detailed notes. But it is possible to get some broad impressions, and some wineries simply stood out by virtue of their overall quality and/or distinctiveness. I’ve also included some impressions on wineries of note that I visited either before Pinot 2007 (from Martinborough) or after (during travels to Nelson and Central Otago). Most of the following wineries do have U.S. importers, although the wines are usually imported in very small quantities and may be difficult to locate without a search. A few wineries that do not currently export to the U.S. are in the process of securing a U.S. importer.

Bell Hill: A relatively new winery with somewhat of a cult status in NZ, this North Canterbury producer is one of the few in NZ that has vineyards on calcerous (limestone) based soils. It shows dramatically in their excellent chardonnay, one of the few from NZ that could truly be compared to white Burgundy. The pinot is also excellent and shows old-world minerality and depth. Find this wine

Craggy Range: I gotta admit I was a bit predisposed to dislike this winery. It was founded by a Canadian multi-millionaire who poured millions of dollars into this wide-ranging operation. Based in the syrah/cabernet growing region of Gimblett Gravels in Hawkes Bay (north of the Wairarapa), the winery also has a vineyard in Martinborough, and sources wines from several different regions through New Zealand in an effort to “express each unique microclimate.” Well, sometimes having lots of money works. The wines are excellent and of consistently high quality, despite the industrial scale of the winery as a whole. The pinot comes from the Te Muna Road area of Martinborough, which is a recently developed region just outside the original Martinborogh area (sometimes called the Martinborough Terrace). Rich, full-bodied, but still elegant and well-structured wine. Find this wine

Desert Heart: A personal favorite, at least as much for the warm and delightful female proprietors of this relatively new estate as for their wines. Denny Downie and Jane Gill run this estate and vineyard situated directly adjacent to Mt. Difficulty and Felton Road in Central Otago. At present the wines are made at nearby Carrick winery. The ideal location of this vineyard provides quality not unlike its more illustrious neighbors. Two pinots are made, their estate pinot, and another from the Spencer Block vineyard, owned by a good friend, Bev Spencer. Classic Central Otago in style, with rich ripe fruit supported by good structure. Not yet imported, but one to watch for. The wines can only improve as the vines mature. Find this wine

OlssensOlssens: This is the pioneer winery in the Bannockburn region of Central Otago, which also is the home of Mt. Difficulty, Felton Road, and Desert Heart. Founded in 1987 by John Olssen and now assisted by his vivacious wife Heather McPherson, Olssens makes 13 different wines. The winemaker is Matt Connell, who most recently worked at Elk Cove Wines in Oregon. The “regular” pinot is called Jackson Barry, and the “reserve” (made only in the best vintages, most recently 2005) is Slapjack Creek. Very well made pinots, big, rich, and very typically Central Otago. I also tasted an excellent dry Riesling. Find this wine



Porter’sPorters: John Porter makes only two wines at his small Martinborough vineyard and winery, Pinot Noir and Pinot Gris. A lawyer in his “other” career, John planted his small 5 acre vineyard in 1992, and produced his first wine in 1995. The wine is exported by GoP friend Russell Briggs. We had the opportunity to visit John and walk the vineyards, and we were most impressed by his knowledge and dedication to producing wines from low yields that reflect his terroir and have the capacity for aging. The wines are excellent: The Pinot Noir is structured, with classic pinot perfume on the nose, medium body, elegant, perfectly balanced, and with good length. The Pinot Gris is one of the few that I tasted from NZ that I really liked, as it is almost bone-dry with excellent cut and great persistence, very Alsatian in style. By the way, as is the case with many small wineries in NZ, Porter’s operates a small B & B on the property (one bedroom only) with luxury appointments and wonderful hospitality. Find this wine

Rimu Grove
Rimu Grove: Founded by a dynamic American ex-pat couple on a shoestring, this Nelson area winery makes excellent Pinot Noir, Pinot Gris, and Chardonnay. The owners, Patrick and Barbara Stowe, have poured their hearts and souls into this property, which is located on a beautiful peninsula north of Nelson. Only 7 hectares are planted, of which 5 are pinot noir, the remainder Chardonnay and Pinot Gris. The pinot is classically elegant, but with very good depth and complexity. The two white wines are also very well made. A relatively young operation, but one to watch. Find this wine



Rippon Vineyard
Rippon Vineyard: One of the few wineries in the Wanaka region of Central Otago (at the northern extremity of the region), Rippon has one of the most dramatic and beautiful vineyard locations I have ever seen, with vines cascading down their hillside to the shores of Lake Wanaka. This is also a fairly old winery by Central Otago standards, planted in 1981, and it grows its grapes biodynamically. Meaty, well-structured wines of depth and substance.  Find this wine

 

 

Schubert VineyardsSchubert Vineyards: Located near both Dry River and Ata Rangi, this Martinborough winery has German roots, as it was founded by Germany-native Kai Schubert after searching in several countries for the right place to grow Pinot Noir. 12 hectares are under vine, and this includes Cabernet and Syrah, although Pinot Noir is their most important and widely grown wine. The wines are stylish, medium bodied, elegant, and long, more “Old World” than New. Find this wine

Te Whare Ra: I had been familiar with this winery before traveling to New Zealand, as I had very much enjoyed their excellent dry Riesling. The name is Maori for “The House of the Sun”, and it is one of the oldest boutique wineries in Marlborough. Te Whare Ra is primarily a white wine specialist, making Gewurztraminer, Sauvignon Blanc (of course, it’s in Marlborough!), and that Riesling, but their Pinot Noir also deserves notice. Rich, smooth, and with good depth, in a “drink me now” style. Find this wine

VynfieldsVynfields: Another organic/biodynamic farmer, Vynfield’s is a boutique producer in Martinborough that seems to fly under the radar even in New Zealand. Classically styled, well-structured Pinot Noir with good depth of fruit. They also make both an off-dry and dry Riesling, and a blend called “Red Rooster”, consisting of 50% cabernet, and 50% of a “mystery grape” that was planted in Martinborough many years ago and has not yet been identified, even with scientific analysis. Find this wine

 

Wycroft
Wycroft: My personal choice for “Best Pinot Not Yet Imported into the U.S.”, Wycroft (not to be confused with GoP favorite “Wyncroft” from southwestern Michigan) makes only Pinot Noir (their motto is “Purely Pinot”), and only one bottling at that. Located in Wairarapa, just north of Martinborough, the Pinot is classically styled with real elegance, depth, complexity and length. Proprietor Lawrie Bryant hired UC Davis-trained Chris Buring, a well-known Martinborough winemaker and consultant, to make the wine, and clearly Wycroft’s vineyard produces excellent quality fruit that Buring has crafted into a first-rate wine. A winery to watch. Find this wine

NEXT: Conclusion

Bennett Traub
Reporting From New Zealand
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