This seems very close to being ready and can be enjoyed now. 2001 was a warmer year, with season-ending drought. The nose was similar to the 2000, but more closed, and the fruit is more primary. Nice ripe, clean pinot fruit with excellent balance, and again, some beetroot balanced against a mineral element; more tannin than 2000; needs perhaps 2 more years to mature. A fairly powerful wine, and firm. 2003 was also described as “average” in Martinborough, but with a smaller crop due to early frost. A bit stinky (reduction?) at first, but as it airs a complex nose of herbs and strawberry fruit emerges. High-toned fruit with strong acidity; very complex, fruit-driven with a very firm structure, some tannins, quite long; needs several years at least. All of these wines emphasize a certain minerality and firmness, but with good underlying fruit and depth. Find this wine

Felton Road, Block 5 (Central Otago). One of the leading wineries in the very rapidly growing region of Central Otago, Felton Road consists of 22 hectares in two owned vineyards, plus some additional acreage in a smaller vineyard that is leased. About ¾ of the land is devoted to Pinot Noir, with the remainder planted in Riesling and Chardonnay. There are two “reserve” pinots, the Block 3 and the Block 5, both from the original 14 hectare vineyard planted in 1992, of which the Block 5 is considered their most ageworthy and top wine. The two “Block” pinots are tightly allocated mainly to their mailing list, which has a waiting list of several years. However the regular pinot is widely distributed, including the U.S.

2001 was a “good, early, warm” year with a large crop that was subjected to saignier (bleeding off of juice early in the fermentation to concentrate the remaining wine). Ripe nose with sweet fruit, some citrus, complex, bit of leather and licorice, spicy. Big, ripe and rich palate with black fruits, excellent acid balance, rich long finish; warm, good complexity, almost ready. 2002 was cooler with a low yield, small berries and even ripening. Similar ripe nose with more berries, clean and pure and a bit of mushroom as it airs. The palate is slightly less ripe with more minerality and red fruits, but some riper black fruit notes as well. Good attack and middle with a gentle, lingering finish. Quite intense, needs some time. 2003 was like 2001 with a large, ripe vintage that was also saigniered. Riper nose, quite dense with black fruits. Riper style palate, very “New World” pinot but still well structured and dense, with good length. Seemingly will be ready sooner, and less intense than the 2002. Find this wine

Martinborough Vineyard (Martinborough). One of the first wineries established in the Martinborough region, and one of the earliest proponents of Pinot Noir in New Zealand. The descriptions of vintage conditions was very similar to those given by neighboring Ata Rangi, with 2000 described as an average, good year. Some briar/herbal elements in the nose, with forest floor, mushroom, and both red and black fruits; showing more secondary development than the other 2000’s. Fruit is slightly stewed with rhubarb, red berries, little primary fruit left; decent secondary fruit development suggests the wine is fully mature; short finish. The 2001 is similar with mahogany/leather on the nose and some cherry fruit; brighter palate than 2000 with more primary fruit, but developed complexity and seemingly mature, with good length. 2003 is closed on the nose, with some stewed fruit showing along with some mushroom. Low fruit, mostly primary red fruit, but simple, and slightly short. All of these wines seem rather reticent, needing time in the glass. Not a simple, obvious style of pinot, the Martinborough Vineyard wines seemed less “friendly” in this setting, but showed depth and some power, if less fruit than the other wines. Find this wine

Neudorf “Home Vineyard” (Nelson). Long known as one of New Zealand’s top Chardonnay producers, Neudorf’s reputation for quality Pinot Noir has grown tremendously in the last few years. Planted in 1979, Neudorf leases 20 hectares from two separate vineyards, and also purchases grapes for its label. In addition to Pinot and Chardonnay, they produce Riesling, Pinot Gris, and Sauvignon Blanc. Three different Pinot Noirs are produced, with the “Home Vineyard” their top wine produced only in the best vintages, in limited quantities (110 cases in 2003).

In 2000, the flowering was wet leading to a small crop that was saved by a fine autumn. The nose features sweet fruit and a bit of leather. Not much primary fruit on the palate; rather spicy with wood and leather dominating; a bit tannic, rather simple and short; seems a bit past its best. 2002 was cool in Nelson, an even and balanced vintage. The wine shows much more primary fruit on the nose and palate, also somewhat tannic, but with a strong mid-palate, deep fruit and a good finish; needs more time. 2003 was warmer with a moderate crop producing rich wines. The wine has the deepest fruit nose, with some licorice and marzipan. Palate reminiscent of a California pinot; very rich deep fruit quality, not too complex; tannins buried under the fruit but showing a bit of bitterness on the finish. This needs a couple of years to integrate. Overall theses wines seemed a bit less impressive and simpler than the first three wineries’, more tannic (from wood?) and simpler. Find this wine

Dry River (Martinborough). If any winery could be considered a “cult” winery in New Zealand, Dry River is it. Impossible to get, expensive (the 2004 runs about $70 in the U.S.—if you can find it), but undoubtedly fine, Dry River is clearly one of the leaders of pinot in New Zealand. Planted in 1979, the two vineyards making up Dry River consist of a total of a bit over 8 hectares of vines in the prime Martinborough Terrace portion of the region, planted in Pinot Noir, Gewurztraminer, Riesling, Sauvignon Blanc, Viognier, Pinot Gris, Chardonnay, and Syrah. Dry River was purchased by American investors in 2002, but the original owner and winemaker, Neil McCallum, remains in charge.

McCallum described 2001 as a slow ripening year, cool with a wet spring, good fruit set and a big crop. Rich, ripe fruit nose with some herbs/forest floor. Sharp palate attack, not much fruit, smooth tannins, showing more structure with buried fruit that is still primary but restrained and a long finish. This still needs several years but seems to have outstanding potential. 2003 featured a small crop and a late harvest with small berries, classic and long-lived. The nose of the wine is deep and rich, with plummy fruit. Much richer than the 2001 on the palate, with great depth of mixed red and black fruit, excellent balance, smooth tannins and a long finish. The most recent release, 2004, is shy on the nose with cherry and strawberry fruit scents. Bright red fruit palate, slightly softer than 2003 but with very good balance; round, good depth if not as deep as ’03, but strong fruit leading to a long gentle finish. Theses wines show a lot of class, elegance with hidden power, and potential for development. Find this wine

Fromm La Strada, “Fromm Vineyard” (Marlborough). Founded in 1991, Fromm La Strada is unusual in Marlborough, a region known primarily for its Sauvignon Blanc, for focusing mainly on Pinot Noir and Chardonnay. Also grown are Syrah, Merlot, Malbec, Gewurztraminer, and a range of Rieslings. Surprisingly for a winery based in Marlborough, there is no Sauvignon Blanc. Fromm is owned by a Swiss family whose ancestor immigrated to New Zealand in the 19th century and married the daughter of a Maori chief. The family still owns a winery in Switzerland in addition to the Fromm winery in Marlborough (Fromm Weingut Malans), which produces mainly Pinot Noir.

Fromm was the only winery to present two older wines, the 1996 and 1997. The winemaker described 1996 as a “structured” vintage, but unfortunately the wine has not aged well. Showing noticeable VA (volatile acidity) on the nose, the wine is clearly cracking up and is devoid of fruit, sharp, tannic, and bitter. Pretty much dead. The 1997 is better, but not much. Produced from a small crop and described as “earlier maturing,” the nose is all musty mushrooms and some wood. There is some fruit on the palate, but tannic, hard, and mostly earthy flavors. All secondary fruit and apparently past its peak, still sound, but just. The 2001 is much, much better. Described as one of the winery’s best vintages with perfect balance, the nose shows complex herbs, red fruits, spicebox and cream. Good rich fruit on the palate; open, fairly rich red fruits with good depth, still a bit of tannin to resolve, long finish with a touch of bitterness from the tannins. This seems a much better representation of what Fromm is producing today, as new clones came on-line for 2001, altering the makeup of the wine significantly. Clearly the winemaking has improved as well, as the 2001 was one of the better wines of the tasting. Find this wine

I can’t resist repeating here Oz Clarke’s comments on the 1996 Fromm, as it’s certainly a good example both of creative expression, but also the lengths critics will go to say something nice in public about a wine that is showing poorly. He described the 1996 as having “a sullen perfume, like the grand bedroom of some baroque counter-reformation archbishop; all dark stained oak, heavy hangings, and the odor of a brooding prelate, lying sinfully, wondering if he’d made the right career choice.” Oh, now I understand.

Pegasus Bay “Prima Donna” (Waipara/North Canterbury). One of the most well-regarded wineries in New Zealand, Pegasus Bay’s first vineyard was planted in 1986. In addition to Pinot Noir, the winery produces virtually the entire range of both red and whites found throughout New Zealand, including the Bordeaux varietals and Syrah. “Prima Donna”, their top pinot, is a selection of the best barrels of wine from their main vineyards, typically the oldest vines, many of which are planted on their own roots.

The 2001 has a rich, complex nose of ripe (but not overripe) fruit, dried apricot and spice, which carries on to the rich, ripe and round palate with excellent balance of fruit, acid, and smooth tannins; very complex, delicious, and seemingly at its peak now. Perhaps the wine I would most enjoy with dinner right now. The 2003 is more subdued, with black fruits, ripe and rich. A more brooding wine, riper and more closed; dense, a bit bound-up and not forthcoming, but with a deep core of fruit. This needs some time to open up. The 2004 is more open, spicy with a bit of a candied nose, more red fruit than black. Brighter palate with some tannin, good backbone, medium body, red fruits; this should improve with age and will be a more elegant wine than the 2003. All of these wines showed a lot of style, good deep fruit and medium rich body, length, and an excellent balance between power and elegance. Find this wine

Quartz Reef, “Bendigo Estate Vineyard” (Central Otago). Quartz Reef consists of 15 hectares of vineyards with an additional 15 hectares under contract from local growers in Central Otago. The first vintage was 1998, and in addition to Pinot Noir, the winery produces Pinot Gris and “Chauvet”, their proprietary name for two methode champenoise sparkling wines (vintage and non-vintage) consisting of both Pinot Noir and Chardonnay. The “Bendigo Estate Vineyard” is their top pinot, made in limited quantities, and available only in magnums.

The 2002 features a somewhat funky nose that is spicy with a bit of menthol. Medium body, good balance, pure fruit flavors that show less complexity than the nose; fairly tannic, straightforward. 2003 is closed with deep, mostly black fruits. Fuller body with deep fruit, firm structure, tannic, hint of licorice, good complexity and length; needs time. 2004 is more candied with some blackberry liqueur and spice on the nose. Bright palate with a tannic edge, good red fruits with a slightly bitter finish from strong tannins. These were all good wines, although more simple and straightforward than some of the others, and not showing much development. Find this wine

These tastings were really fascinating, and instructive regarding the various styles and vintages of New Zealand pinot. Clearly there are some very fine Pinot Noirs being grown in New Zealand, and I would be happy to have many of the wines tasted in my personal cellar (most of these are imported into the U.S., but in very limited quantities, and they can be difficult to locate). My personal favorites overall were the Ata Rangi, Felton Road, Dry River, and Pegasus Bay. Each of these wineries demonstrated consistently high quality, elegance, depth, and the ability to develop (not just endure) with some bottle age. The wines of Martinborough Estate, Neudorf, Fromm, and Quartz Reef were either less consistent, or less complex, but each produced at least one wine that showed real quality and depth. Stylistically the wines can be placed somewhere between the mineral elegance and firm structure of Burgundy, and the fuller bodied fruit-forward US pinot style. These are very food-friendly wines that drink well relatively young but appear to have the structure to age (notwithstanding the older Fromm wines that had not). As these are all young vines, and wineries with relatively short track records, there remains considerable room for improvement in years to come. NEXT: The Great Pinot Noirs of the World Tasting

Bennett Traub
Reporting From New Zealand
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Introduction | Terroir | 8 Great Producers | Pinots of the World | Other Notable Pinots | Conclusion