1999 Belle Pente Willamette Pinot Gris, 12.5% alc.: The spicy green apple nose of this pale straw expands big time on the palate, with added cream/mineral and hints of beeswax and detergent. If that sounds strange, it tasted very good; nice acidity here, and a long finish.

1998 Galleron Napa Dry Riesling Priest Ranch, 12.9% alc.: Master Meehan immediately commented about an "oily" quality to this medium straw, and Ben (left) asked, "Where's the acidity?" A not too effusive nose of overripe apple/beeswax leads on to flavors of green apple/wet stone, and some nice perfume, but ultimately, this comes across as flat; it simply has no zip.

1998 Pahlmeyer Napa Chardonnay, 14.8% alc.: Larry said this medium straw is "way better than the '97," and Jeff added that there's "not as much oak." In that case, I'd hate to try the earlier vintage, because this is just too much for this taster, with its tons of tropical fruit/toasty/smoky oak. There's surprisingly good acidity here, and not an overlong finish, but it was tiring to my palate by the end of the first short glass.

At that point, the masses revolted and bolted for the reds; I started with a mini-vertical of an old favorite, the Sangiovese/Cabernet/Syrah blend known as Summus.

1988 Castello Banfi Summus, 12.5% alc.: Still not much rust to this dark garnet, it's showing all the lovely spicy dried black cherry/cedar/tar flavors and aromas that I remember and love so much from past encounters. A note of chocolate expands dramatically with air, and there's the requisite acidity that's in perfect proportion. A beautiful, elegant wine that's going strong and showing no signs of decline.  ("Retailer Bob", Bob Eppich, right)

1994 Castello Banfi Summus, 13% alc.: This ruby dark garnet exhibits spicy/smoky dried black cherry character, with hints of bret/chocolate/licorice/tar. Plenty of acidity here, and good tannins give the finish a bit of astringency. This will be better a few years down the road, but will never reach the heights of the '88, '90 or '96.

1995 Castello Banfi Summus, 13% alc.: This dark garnet has more stuffing than the '94, with its deep dark dried black cherry/berry/smoke flavors and aromas. Tannins and acidity beg to wait until at least its 10th birthday to open another, but it has a great future.

1996 Castello Banfi Summus, 13% alc.: This dark garnet was on almost everybody's list of favorites for the evening, with even deeper, darker smoky black cherry/black raspberry character; Moe added an impression of "mocha coffee," and Scott (left with Kim Adams) noted "bell pepper." This beauty is dense, with the Syrah seeming to shine through the companion varietals; it's exuberant and tight at the same time. It's hard to keep hands off, but this is another with all the tannins and acidity to hold at least until its 10th birthday, and quite probably well beyond.

1988 Castello di Gabbiano Ania, 13% alc.: Chairman Moe described this dark garnet's bouquet as "like a ballpark frank with stadium mustard," and you know what? That was a pretty good description! It brims with big, powerful smoky licorice/tar on the palate, and still tastes young. Very nice.

1990 Banfi Brunello di Montalcino, 13% alc.: This dark garnet is all smoke/tar/black cherries and drying tannins; Bob Graeter chimed in, "There's some floral stuff there too!" It really opens up in the glass, but has a long life ahead of it. Try again in five years (or five hours at least, so my notes read).

1990 San Martino Villa Cafaggio, 13% alc.: Deep dark garnet with smoky black cherry and a hint o' tar, this is drinking very nicely, especially with Jeff and Amy's veggie lasagna and Larry's little lamb.

1993 Villa la Selva Selvamaggio, 13% alc.: This dark garnet isn't as aromatic as some of the others, but the smoky black cherry/plum flavors really pick it up a notch with nice ripe fruit. Still has at least a few years of improvement in it.

1997 Antinori Tignanello, 13.5% alc.: My wine of the night, this dark garnet exudes beautiful, refined black raspberry/black cherry/dark chocolate character; true, the tannins need lots of time, but even in its youth, you can tell what promise it holds. "It finishes a little short, but that's because it's tight," Master Meehan commented, and I wouldn't disagree. This sat somewhat neglected for some reason, so I showed it mercy by taking a second pour and finishing it off. Mama mia, what a wine!

1997 Castello di Fonterutoli Siepi, 14% alc.: There's even deeper, darker fruit in this dark garnet than in the Tig, but it's not quite as refined, being denser and more mysterious. It almost reminded me of an Aussie Shiraz, but the oak doesn't dominate the blackberry/ black cherry flavors and aromas. 1/2 Sangiovese and 1/2 Merlot, this evoked a "geo t. Wow!" from me... };^)>

At that point, I put down pad and pen, but not my glass. A '97 Joseph Phelps Late Harvest Riesling was most appreciated, even with all its youthful viscosity; the honey and apricot flavors and aromas are huge, and would be best approached in another seven to ten years. And I broke our maxim that "after the sweetstuff, you can't go back" when a bottle of '97 Cline Jacuzzi Zinfandel magically appeared, and I was indeed able to appreciate its massive fruit and presence. Wish I could get another taste of that with a fresh palate tho...

It was a wonderful night with wonderful friends, food and wine, but it was only the first of two, so Larry, Dogboy and I finally dragged off to bed with visions of Pinot Noir and the Rock 'n' Roll Haul of Fame dancing in our heads.  On to Saytr's Day Pinot tasting.

© Gang of Pour Nov. 2000