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The Cleve
Tastings
After that, it was a trip into the city for Doglington, Larry, Kim and me for a visit to the Rock 'n' Roll Hall of Fame where two hours could have easily stretched its way into five. But we were dutifully cognizant of the time and other tasks at hand, like visiting three wine stores to see what was to be had, and there was a thing or three, to be sure.
1999 Chateau Grand Mayne Entre deux Mers' 11.5% alc.: The wet stone/apple/pear bouquet isn’t that pronounced, but picks up nicely on the palate with a hint of perfume and fairly low acidity. 1999 Rochioli Russian River Valley Sauvignon Blanc, 13.5% alc.: Medium straw with its spicy cat spray/sweaty armpit/grapefruit character prettied up with just the right touch of oak, this is everything we love about Rochioli. Spritzy and delicious. 1994 Robert Mondavi Napa Pinot Noir Reserve, $79.99 1.5 ML, 13% alc.: This ruby garnet is drinking really well these days, with its pretty smoky black cherry/hint o’ cinnamon flavors and aromas; Ben added impressions of strawberry and nutmeg. The tannins are mostly resolved, the acidity is at a perfect level, and this is a bit more restrained than the other California models, showing a more earthy character as well. This went over very well, making me wish I’d picked up a few more two years ago, especially since I was able to get it at a 10% discount on the price listed. One of my two wines of the night, along with the following. 1993 Williams Selyam Russian River Valley Pinot Noir, 13.2% alc.: An even paler ruby garnet than the Mondavi, the dusty smoke/black cherry bouquet isn’t as effusive either, but it’s a bit bigger on the palate. Larry added “bright, floral, elegant” impressions; both of these are lovely examples of how fine Pinot ages so gracefully. 1997 Williams Selyam Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir Hirsch Vineyard, 14.9% alc.: Ben described this ruby dark garnet as “an angry young Pinot,” and Moe exclaimed, “Talk about drying tannins,” adding impressions of “a thin short finish.” These comments might lead one to believe that this isn’t all that enjoyable, but in fact it shows big perfumed smoky black cherry character, with plenty of intensity. It’s not too awfully tannic, and has plenty of acidity, and while it’ll definitely be better in three to five years, it’s damned good right now! Someone grabbed my notebook and scrawled, “Turning almost balanced on the finish.” 1997 Flowers Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir Hirsch Vineyard, 14.2% alc.: This ruby dark garnet is slightly cloudy, and shows that signature Flowers perfume that seems a little yeasty to me, but in a good way. Huge smoky black cherry/plum/cinnamon flavors are very intense; the tannins and acidity beg for more time in the cellar, but it has a ton of fruit and is fun to drink, even now. 1997 Siduri Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir Hirsch Vineyard: This poor unfortunate was corked, robbing us of the opportunity to compare a third version from this fine vineyard. Bummer. 1997 Siduri Santa Lucia Highlands Pinot Noir Pisoni Vineyard, 14.1% alc.: This ruby garnet has a very stingy nose of (surprise!) smoky black cherry that echoes and expands in the flavors, but it’s considerably lighter that the others noted so far. When the tannins resolve, will this be elegant, or just thin? It’s a little lacking on the mid-palate and finish; maybe it’ll put on some weight as it ages…
1998 Belle Pente Willamette Valley Pinot Noir, 12.8% alc.: There’s mostly earth on the nose of this ruby garnet, and lots on the palate as well, with added smoke and cherry. More substantial than the Drouhin, this is a nice wine that needs a few years in the cellar. 1997 Gary Farrell Russian River Valley Pinot Noir Allen Vineyard: This ruby dark garnet exudes “awesome perfume,” with more smoky black cherries and excellent concentration. Not quite the equal of most of the other Cal models, but still quite a nice wine.
1997 Etude Carneros Pinot Noir, 13.5% alc.: This dark garnet has a darker nose than any of the rest of these, showing spicy perfumed plum/black cherry, but some serious tannins and acidity need years, so don’t touch for a long time. By now, we had reached the point when Bob G. brought out more terrific Graeter’s Ice Cream ® and Assorted Chocolates as well, so it was time for sweetstuff in the glass too! 1997 Pierre-Bize Coteaux du Layon Chaume, 13% alc.: This delicious dessert wine has a rich golden color, with a thick, concentrated texture and flavors and aromas of honey and overripe apricots. The bee’s knees! 1994 Domaine des Baumard Quartes de Chaume, 13% alc.: This pale gold paled in comparison to the previous selection, and the following one as well. Larry called it a “Bize-Lite,” while Kim mentioned impressions of “canned asparagus.” Only medium sweet, this is good, but nothing special. 1997 Chateau la Variere Bonnezeaux “Les Melleresses,” 13% alc.: This medium gold doesn’t have an overly exuberant nose, but there are nice apricot/mineral/honey flavors, with good density, but it’s not as viscous as the Bize. 1990 Chateau Rieussec Sauternes, 14.5% alc.: This golden Sauternes has big flavors and aromas of honey/apricot/confectioner’s sugar with decent acidity and some earth on the finish. This should only get better with added time in the cellar. So there you have it. We drank some wonderful wines with terrific food not far from Lake Erie's shore, and the hospitality of the Gang of Cleve is a beautiful thing. Special thanks go out to the home team of Meehans, Faunce/ McClellans, and Gillikin/Patt (even though poor Jeff G. missed the festivities) for graciously hosting this great weekend. Thanks also to those who attended for the contributions of food, wine and friendship. A great time was had by all, and we’re looking forward to renewing acquaintances in Toledo (We Will Always Have Toledo) sometime in February. |
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I
had ice cream for
breakfast for the first time in my life the next morning. Bob
Graeter’s
family has been making some of the best ice cream in the country since
1870, and it’s called, appropriately enough, 
Finally however, it
was time to drive to the Gillikin/Patt
Country Home For Wayward Winos,
for yet more vinous delights, this time mostly the varieties of the
Pinot Noir experience. The same gang gathered as the night before, and
there were a few additions, namely Cathy
Gross (right with Chris)
aka Mrs. Moe,
Larry's mom Sally
and local wine lovers Sherry
and Tony Scimone.
And there was more great food too, with yet more breads and cheese, and
mushroom caps, vegetarian and crab ravioli, grilled breast of chicken
and baked salmon. Here’s what I tasted:
1997 Drouhin Oregon
Pinot Noir, 13% alc.:
There’s big cinnamon/nutmeg/cherry perfume emanating from this ruby
garnet, but it’s not as concentrated in the flavors as the previous
selections. Larry
(right with Sally Gunn)
described it as “earth driven,” and we both agreed that it might
better be considered on its own terms.
1997 Wild Hog Russian
River Valley Pinot Noir Sara Lee’s Vineyard,
14.4% alc.: This ruby garnet was the surprise of the night, with its big
perfume and rich, intense smoky black cherry character. Made a very
positive impression on most of the tasters.
