Memorable Meals & Experiences

We awaited the arrival of Jon Cook and Kira Maximovich in the lobby of the Bellevue --we ordered a bottle and chatted with other guests to pass the time.

2002 Alain Peray Cote du Rhone Rose` -- originally served too cold, but it steadily improved as it warmed. By the time Jon and Kira joined us, it was singing – fragrant strawberries, wild flowers, and scents from a stone studded riverbed. It is smooth and inviting when sipped – it features juicy red fruits, a light floral garrigue, and a snappy bit of spice, all made bright with acids. Quite nice.

It is very nice to dine with those you enjoy so much – all the better when you have food and wine to match…comfortable, attentive service, too.

2001 Philipe Faurie Saint Joseph Blanc – thick scents of pineapple and mango, with just a hint of herbs/anise. It is rich and smooth in the mouth (perhaps just a bit oily), while featuring pear and pineapple flavors…bees wax and a few drops of honey. Its textures become quite supple over time…elegant. Jon thought its blend tilted more toward Marsanne than Rousanne.

1995 Jamet Cote Rotie – this was decanted for about an hour, as we feared it might be too tight or closed. "No need to be afraid" said the voice from the decanter – sure enough, this wine spoke the truth. It offered up a gorgeous Cote Rotie perfume full of black olives, wild flowers and black fruits…light doses of roasting meat and leather. The flavors in the mouth are long on dark cherries, Indian spice, grilled meat and stones. The flavors are strong, but the wine’s demeanor is graceful and elegant…broad sheets of tannin offer good grip, while the acids lend it a bright persona. The finish lingers on and on with light spice and minerals. Sometimes it is hard to separate the wine from the total experience (which begs the question why one would want to do such a thing), but by almost any standard, this was a wonderful showing for the wine.

Not having had enough of a good thing, we adjourned to my palatial roadside motel room. We were greeted by pungent scents emanating from my extra bedroom that served as our cheese cave/wine cellar on the trip – we sealed the door.

We settled in with some surreal free French porn on the TV…it sort of took us by surprise when it transformed from the relatively "soft", Cinemax–esque videos, to a hardcore feature centering around an older dude in a trucker’s mesh cap, a younger guy with a kilt (in addition to Shaggy, French pop culture seems to embrace the Scots) and his lady love. Of course I may have imagined the whole thing, as I was starting to run a fever… I do recall some of us sipped from plastic cups, while two lucky souls were able to use some smallish glasses.

2001 Mathieu Barret "Les Terraces du Serre" Cornas – heavily structured, but still offering up an abundance of minerals, smoke and black fruit. It is an appealing young wine for its ferocity and raw materials, but it needs time. Kira thought it to be quite shut down.

2000 Allemand "Sans Soufree" Cornas – Soooo grapey, juicy and loaded with minerals…it seems like a complex barrel sample, but continued to evolve positively. It is full of earth, herbs and granite at is core. The tannins are sometimes fierce, but the freshness and vitality of the fruit/acid combo is a worthy adversary.

cheese cart Seven of us gathered at La Reclusiere, a hotel and restaurant in Condrieu owned an operated by an Alsatian couple (I’d be remiss if I did not mention that they had a "no smoking" section – very nice). Their menu and wine list certainly offered good representation of their roots. Everett Bandman led us to this spot and I was happy to follow along with Mike Lawton, David Seidner, Phil MacDonald, Lee Short and Bruce Schneier. I had a tasty split pea soup, the goose entrée (others gravitated toward the rabbit), and we all sampled from a nice cheese cart. Bucking the convention of winos everywhere that require having a table completely covered with bottles, the seven of us split a mere three and a half bottles over dinner. I have since recovered from the shame.

2001 Gaillard St. Joseph Blanc (375 ml) – apricots and floral scents are joined by a slight wooden edge…later, something akin to banana. It has nice apricot and peach fruit, but also a fair amount of vanilla and cake spice…otherwise thick in the mouth, but lacking some of the cut I’d prefer.

1998 Josmeyer Vin d’Alsace Pinot Auxerrois VV – brings in scents of apricot, tart apple, wet stones and herbs. It has decent weight in the mouth, and seems a bit waxy up front. Apple flavors and a lemon zest are met by anise and minerals in the center…a few drops of honey and more herb at the close. It is a nice wine, which is easy to enjoy.

1990 Trimbach Cuvee Frederic Emile Riesling Vendages Tardives – Most simply said, this is superb wine. A gorgeous nose of pineapple, peach and long lasting floral tones…wet slate and just a hint of petrol. I was braced for sugar, and then found this to be completely dry…that said it has both powerful and profound fruit flavors. Pineapple, mango, and peach all seem distinct and precise – all coating my mouth and then lingering on and on. The mineral component is large, and intensifies through the very lengthy finish. It has body and weight, but all the while it never loses its clean acidic edge. This is easily one of the best wines I encountered this year, and among the best whites I have ever tried.

1993 Faiveley Nuits St. George 1er Cru Clos de la Marechale – I lobbied hard to get this ordered and decanted as soon as possible…the joke became "it just might be ready by the time dinner is complete"…that was just about right. Its bouquet was restrained for a long while – mostly cranberry and light spice. The palate followed suit, with a strong sense of tannin and acid lending it a stern, slightly tart persona. A few hours did it well, as black cherry, tobacco and Indian spice emerged…bacon and minerals, too. The mouthfeel was plush, but well charged by the previously tart acids…tannins seemed less problematic. It emerged as a very attractive wine, showing reasonable balance in the components. It needs hours or (at least) another 3-5 years.

We probably traveled too many miles on this week long trip, but such is the nature of wandering wine lovers. We were excited about the prospects of visiting so many intriguing places, that bouts of sickness, harsh weather and good sense were hardly impediments. We may have stretched ourselves, but we had a great time. It was a huge advantage to be in the company of Mike Lawton - though he wishes his French were better, he did a fantastic job of communicating. It made my note taking (and my overall experience) immeasurably easier in that I did not have to struggle and stumble my way through questions, or interpreting the answers. A bit of college French did eventually help me understand bits and pieces of the conversations, but I was largely free to consider the wines, the people, and my surroundings. In many senses we were there on the "business of wine", but I enjoyed myself well beyond the crushed fruit -- I found the time to walk through the streets, watch the people, experience some of the nuances that make each small place unique, and of course, revel in the fellowship of my comrades (much of the time spent in laughter).

We're talking about doing it again in 2005...a happy thought. ===>

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