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Menu Blue Jeans to Black Tie Auction ZAP Saturday Tasting
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I
polled some of the winemakers and growers as to their
impressions of the vintage most widely featured at this year’s ZAP,
and most had very positive things to say, leading me to believe that we
Zinfanatics have plenty of good things to look forward to over the next
few years. Mike Officer, Carlisle Cellars (bespectacled, to the right, along with Jay Maddox, Carlisle Viticulturist and Co-Winemaker): 2001 kicks ass! No, really, it was a dream vintage. The growing season was very easy; there was not a lot of mildew pressure, so sulfur dusting was at a minimum. It was a very long, protracted harvest, so you could harvest at your leisure, which was very nice. There was no rush to get things out of tanks, there was no threat of rain forcing you to pick before you wanted to. We had an Indian Summer, which we didn’t have in 2000 (one of the first times I can recall not having an Indian Summer) so that really helped the fruit in the Russian River Valley hit ripeness. So with long hang times, especially in the cooler viticultural areas, the wines ended up with tremendous color and concentration, and it looks to be a great vintage. |
I asked
Mike if he could give us a sneak peak at ’02, and he had this to say:
Jay and I just went through all our lots a week ago and I was actually
quite surprised. During the harvest, I thought that 2002 was not
going to be that great a vintage. The 2001 wines were very
flattering to taste right out of tank very early on, they were very
precocious. The 2002s weren’t at all like that, but now with
time in barrel, we’re beginning to see what they’re showing, and
again, there’s tremendous color, there is great ripeness. I
think what threw us off was that the acidity in 2002 ran much higher
than in 2001, so that acidity was masking a lot of the fruit and the
flavor early on in fermentation, but now that everything’s settling
down, you’re beginning to see the raw materials there, and it looks
quite nice. It’ll be interesting; it’s possible that some
wines in 2002 will be better than their ’01 counterparts, but
they’re going to be different. One is going to be a very
precocious, “come here big boy drink me now” vintage, and the other
is going to be one that is a little more structured, a little more
tannic perhaps. But it looks good; certainly after ’98 through
2000, anything looks good! Robert
Biale, Robert
Biale Vineyards: It’s a winemaker’s dream vintage,
somewhat like the ’99; kind of a slam-dunk year. Mild to warm
growing season with a long harvest, which extends the flavors, extends
the maturation, extends it all. The fruit did not fall on top of
each other, so that resulted in nice supple tannin, darker skin
extraction and deeper, concentrated fruit. And in some ways a lot
like ’99, these are kind of athletic wines, so we’re looking forward
to these to age a little longer, not to age forever, but a little longer
than the 2000s. So, in general, we’re real, real happy. Duane
Dappan (right), D-Cubed
Cellars: Well, I think that 2001 wines in general have a
really nice fruit intensity, great length and a nice tannin structure
that’s not overpowering, but is balanced in the wines, I think to make
them a really ageable vintage, one that you’re going to want to wait
for a couple of years and enjoy for a while. Jeff
Gaffner, Saxon
Brown Wines: Patience was a virtue; I think it paid off
really well. I think a lot of people pulled the trigger too soon
and lost patience and they got an artificial ripeness. I think by
letting the fruit hang and understanding the physiology, you got a true
ripeness. I think we did it, and I think it paid huge dividends. Bill
Nachbaur, Acorn
Winery: It was a difficult vintage from a grower’s
point of view; we had not much rain in the winter, and then a lot of
frost in the spring, hot May, cold summer, but then it turned out great,
a really good vintage. Paul
Draper (right), Ridge
Vineyards: For us, it was an excellent vintage. One
of the things that we noticed with Zinfandel almost immediately was more
tannin extraction, so that the wines REALLY have some good structure.
The 2000s were lovely, but they were these very rich, open, easy wines;
the 2001s have the structure, the acidity to carry that fruit longer,
and for us, vineyard by vineyard, is one of the finest vintages in the
last, oh, five years. |
Link to Gang of Pour Home Page © George Heritier
February 2003
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