e get wayward strangers showing up at our door all the time; we've met
some of our best friends that way. And so came Bennett Traub,
a serious wine lover that we ran into, where else, but on the Internet,
specifically on the
West Coast Wine Net. Bennett doesn't chase numbers and ratings,
he's into the real thing, and if you have to ask what that means, you'll
probably never know. We've been comparing notes regarding
Joguet Chinon for a while now, and when business brought him to town
last week, we took that as a fortuitous opportunity to get together for
food and wine. We were joined by that self - described "simple country
wine retailer" himself, Bill Schwab aka The
Psychopomp, who once again regaled us with his wit, wisdom
and all around "spoofalation."
Left to right: Bennett,
Bastardo and Bill, grinning like Cheshire
Cats,
and who wouldn't smile with wines like these? -
Photo by Kim Adams |
No wines under 14 years old were allowed on the table on this fine and
special evening. Kim prepared a
delicious dinner consisting of grilled leg o' lamb, sautéed
mushrooms in demi glace over beluga lentils, pine nut dressed greens
beans and pan roasted asparagus. We had the last bottle of an old
friend ready and waiting for our guests when they arrived, and it's
never shown better.
1990
Trimbach Riesling Cuvée
Frédéric
Emile, 12.5% alc.: Pale gold in color, with a tinge of lime, this
exudes a lovely bouquet of stoney petrol accented with a note of pine,
and bright overtones of, yes, lime. The rich, almost unctuous flavors
echo beautifully, with an added core of appley fruit underneath it all,
crisp acidity and a long finish. Bill describes the wine as plush, and
in truth, it really has evolved and become so much lovelier over the
years. I can only rue the fact that there's no more of this down in the
cellar from heck, because it's singing right now, and shows no sign of
letting up any time soon.
Imported by Chateau & Estate Wines Co., New York, NY
1985 Château
de Beaucastel Châteauneuf
du Pape Blanc, 13.6% alc.: This is showing both a pale gold color
and remarkable longevity, being quite vibrant and very much alive, with
characteristics of mineral (Bennett mentioned slate and flint), a bit of
residual wax (thin paraffin candle, according to Bill), dried passion
fruit, quince, an herbal underbelly and some citrus and peach pit as it
opens. The wine still has excellent cut, and gives not the slightest
impression of being over the hill or past its prime. Oh, my!
Imported by Vineyard Brands, Inc., Birmingham, AL
1988
Vieux Télégraphe
Châteauneuf
du Pape, 11 - 14% alc.: "I love this wine," Kim exclaimed after a
few sips, and indeed, what's not to love here? Dark garnet, with just a
hint of rust to its color, this gives up a hint of the barnyard that
blows off quickly, leaving plenty of black plum and black currant shaded
with smoke, sarsaparilla root (Bill) and earthy, woodsy tobacco and
saddle leather (Bennett). Big and rich, with a fair dose of tannins
still to resolve, this really opens with just a little air, and Kim's
grilled leg o' lamb brings out its full flavor even more, and vice
versa. A simply marvelous wine, one we're lucky enough to have
greatly enjoyed twice in the last three months
here at Adams, Heritier and Associates.*
Imported by Kermit Lynch, Wine Merchant - Berkeley, CA
Unfortunately, a 1983 Vieux Télégraphe
that Bennett brought along was corked, but such was not the case with
another southern Rhône
stalwart in his travel bag of none - too - dubious - delectables.
1985
Château de
Beaucastel Châteauneuf
du Pape, 13.6% alc.: The rouge sibling to the '85 blanc tasted
earlier, this is a deep, dark garnet, fading to pink at the rim, and
showing just a hint of brick. It offers oodles of cola, earth, saddle
leather, smoke and what Bill describes as some nice blackberry and
licorice in the background. The cola overtones are especially aromatic,
really dressing up the lovely perfume, and in the mouth, the wine
retains solid structure, with a long delicious finish and tannins that
aren't at all obtrusive. This is a big, beautiful Beaucastel that has
yet to reach its peak, so drink or hold; either way, you'll be pleased,
if this bottle is any indication.
Imported by Vineyard Brands, Inc., Birmingham, AL
1990 Charles Joguet Chinon Clos de la Dioterie,
12.5% alc.: A much appreciated gift from
Mark Criden, this ruby dark garnet more than held up to the
competition on this evening, showing every bit as well as it did
in Toledo
a month previous; I told Mark that this wasn't going to last the year,
and I meant it, dammit! It exudes effusive earthy, herbal blackberry,
black currant aromatics adorned with hints of blueberry, which follow
through on the palate with what Bill describes as little hints of citrus
zest; Bennett added impressions of cedar, clove and smoke, "like what
you'd poach a pear in." There're still some tannins here, and this is
still on the way up, just starting to turn silky, with that Pinot Noir -
like quality that many of these Chinons seem to have, and like so many
fine French wines, it opens more and more with air. There's no reason
that this shouldn't continue to improve over the next five years or
more; drink or hold.
Imported by Kermit Lynch, Wine Merchant - Berkeley, CA
1990
Gaja Langhe Sperss, 13.5% alc.: Bill pulled this rusty dark garnet
out of his pocket, saying that it needed evaluation, and who better to
do the job than this crowd? It features what he and Bennett collectively
describe as tar and bittersweet chocolate over mesquite roasted
cherries, with cigar ash and cedar in support; Bennett elaborated
cryptically, saying "it's like drinking a monastery." This still shows a
good dose of oak for its age, and in fact, it's still a young wine in
most respects, and has a good dose of tannins to shed as well. It
reminds me of nothing so much as oak and twigs on the nose, with all of
the previously mentions characteristics on the palate; like the other
wines, it opens more and more with air, and finishes with very good
length. Both Bill and Bennett mentioned some volatile acidity, but I got
none of that; to me, this is simply a wine that I'd love to try again in
about five years to see how it's coming along. It's certainly a horse of
a different color from anything else tasted on this occasion, but I
didn't hear anyone complaining except maybe Kim, who described it as
sour.
Imported by Vinifera Imports, Ltd., Ronkonkoma, NY
1971
Ridge Essence Zinfandel Lodi, 375 ml: Bennett brought this somewhat
murky rusty dark garnet along, knowing how the Gang loves Mr. Ridge, and
of course, we were most pleased and impressed. Though showing its age,
this is still in great shape, being rich, fairly sweet and distinctly
Zinfandel. It's a little funky on the nose, and rather earthy
throughout; Bill was reminded of rotten strawberries, which he seemed to
mean in the kindest way. Bennett called it Créme
Brule in a glass, but at that point in the evening, I just called it
delicious, sipping mine most gladly, and not bothering to write much
more. I was also negligent in clearing glasses at the end of the
evening, so, perhaps not surprisingly, they had to be soaked the next
day to remove the considerable sediment schmutz in each, as this was
poured straight from the bottle.
This "offline" was a classic example of what the
Gang of Pour has been about over the last 9 years or so,
meeting up with our fellow online winos and enjoying good food, fine
wine and most excellent camaraderie. First encounters with virtual
friends are always interesting; we've never had a bad experience, and
hanging out with Bennett is like hanging out with an old buddy. The best
part is, he comes to town three or four times a year, so next time, we
should be able to sit out on the back deck!
As for that "simple country wine retailer," he is what he is, and we
wouldn't have him any other way.
For comparison's sake, here are our notes from the other '88 VT we had
the pleasure to enjoy three months back:
*1988 Vieux Télégraphe
Châteauneuf
du Pape, $19.99, 11 - 14% alc.: Sharlan
Douglas found this hiding in her cellar, the last of a batch
of '88 and '89 CdPs she invested in a decade or more ago, and she and
her husband Ken Hebenstreit brought
it over to share with us on New Years Eve. A rusty dark garnet in color,
it's a little musty (in a good way) at first, gradually opening to show
classic Châteauneuf
characteristics of smoke, cola, leather, earth, cedar - mahogany and a
hint of something like brass over sweet plum and prune on both flavor
and aroma. Velvety smooth on the palate, with modest tannins at best,
fairly low acidity and a long finish, the wine is lush, rich and
delicious, easily one of the finest CdPs any of the four of us have ever
had. It made a wonderful match for Kim's confit of veal breast with
garlic mashed potatoes, caramelized pearl onions, wild mushrooms
(porcini and morel) and veal sauce reduction. My poor words simply
cannot do justice to this marvelous, mature Vieux Télégraphe.
Bravo!