After a day
of activities that included jaunts to
Zingerman's in Ann Arbor,
the Toledo Art Museum,
Toledo's Anderson's Wine and Lumber Emporium
and the Libby's Glass Outlet, the
gang straggled back to nap, swim and play euchre and cribbage before
wading into some serious carnage once again. It was Meehan's night to
cook, and the pan roasted pork tenderloins and sausages and supporting
dishes were well received. And, after drinking some great wines the
night previous, we actually jacked things up a notch or two, starting,
of course, with the white stuff.
1990
Nikolaihof Riesling Wachau Vinothek,
12.5%: Nikolaihof sounds
more like a producer of vodka that Trinka Dykes (right, with martini in hand) might choose to
include in her martini travel kit, but such is not the case. Pale
to medium straw, with mineral, rainwater and a hint of anise on the
nose; gains some green apple on the palate, with brisk acids and a long,
mineral finish. All this needs is a little grilled trout!
1999 Nigl Sauvignon Blanc Ernte, 12.5% alc.: Pale straw, with slightly
piney green apple and grapefruit flavors and aromas; brisk acidity, good
concentration and a nice finish. Interesting and tasty.
2000 Pascal Cotat Sancerre Les Monts Damnes, 12.5% alc.: Pale straw,
with slightly perfumed green apple, grapefruit and rainwater flaves and
whiffs; good with Dirty Potato Chips
®,
and Pam Gillikin agreed with
me on that point.
1990 J.J. Prum Mosel Riesling Spatlese Wehlener Sonnenuhr, 8% alc.: Pale
gold, with a petrol, pine and honey personality; good acids, medium
sweet and a long finish. We really need to drink more good
Riesling at our house.
1991 N. Joly Clos de la Coulee de Serrant, 13% alc.: This medium straw was one
of my favorite wines of the weekend, perhaps in the top three. It shows
plenty of dusty limestone and quince, being very dry and earthy. In
fact, it almost tasted dirty, but nevertheless, I loved it. I could have lingered long
over this one, but one must be polite at affairs like these, so I made
do with my short pour and moved on the next selection.
1985 Foreau Vouvray Demi-sec, 12.6% alc.: Medium straw, with wet stone,
limestone, green apple and pear on the nose and in the mouth; lots of
life here, wow! A vital, dry 20 year old Chenin Blanc.
At that point, it was time to move on to the reds, especially with the
trio that Mark Horvatich had lined up in the middle of the room.
1985 Chateau Cos d'Estournel Saint - Estephe, 12.5% alc.: Slightly rusty
dark garnet, with tobacco and just a hint of the barnyard over cassis
and black currant flavors and aromas; a little musty on the nose, but in
a good way. Medium full bodied, with what Mark described as some "pretty
aggressive tannins" still around.
1985 Chateau Ducru - Beaucaillou Saint - Julien, 12.5% alc.: According
to Mark, beginning with this vintage, they began spraying the winery
with an insulation material that imparted a TCA - like character to the
wine, and it's especially apparent on the nose of this rusty dark
garnet, with a corked - wet cardboard aroma that does seem to blow off
some with air. On the palate, there's a boatload of fruit and secondary
nuances, including sweet cedar, cassis and black currant, with only a
hint of the taint, so it's actually good to drink, if you keep your nose
out of the glass. Regarding this producer, Mark advises not to buy
anything from them produced between '85 and '90, no matter how good the
price, because you'll end up with something like this, not corked, but
contaminated.
1985 Chateau Leoville Barton Saint - Julien, 12% alc.: "Of these three,
this is why I buy Bordeaux," Mark remarked. (Mark remarked? Hmm...) It's
a slightly rusty dark garnet, with a lovely bouquet of tobacco, cassis,
black currant and black berry; earthy flavors echo and expand on a
medium full bodied frame with tannins to burn. Fine ass Saint - Julien!
1990 Joguet Chinon Clos de la Dioterie, 12.5% alc.: Slightly rusty ruby
garnet, with herbal, blackberry, plum and black cherry character; ultra
- smooth on the palate, and just a lovely wine that these poor notes
don't do justice. Many thanks to Mark Criden, who brought this and a
second bottle, which he turned over to this taster for safe keeping; it
won't last the year, Mark!
1993 Ridge Santa Cruz Mountains Cabernet Sauvignon Horseshoe/Young
Foster, 12.4% alc.: Sourced from two of Monte Bello Vineyard's smallest
blocks, this dark garnet beauty exudes deep, rich black currant, cassis
and blackberry aromatics graced with the epitome of "Draper perfume;
these follow through on the palate with even darker character, plenty of
earth and some tannins still to lose. Lovely Ridge Santa Cruz Mountains
claret.
1993 Ridge York Creek Cabernet Sauvignon, 13.4% alc.: Deep, dark garnet,
a little tight on the nose and a bit vegetal on the palate, but shows
solid black currant and cassis Cabernet character prettied up with the
signature Draper perfume. The huge structure needs a minimum of five
years but the wait will be rewarding.
1990 Jasmin Côte Rôtie, 12.5% alc.: Rusty ruby garnet, with a red
licorice nose and smoky pruney plum on the palate with a hint of rotting
vegetables. Mature, lovely and silky smooth, but perhaps overpowered a
bit by the bigger wines before and after.
1974 Clos du Val Napa Cabernet Sauvignon, 12.8% alc.: Rusty dark garnet,
and drinking like fine old claret, with cedar, black currant, cassis and
just a hint of herb, Alpert. Most harmonious, rich and delicious, in a
very nice place and not at all over the hill.
2000 Chateau Pavie Saint - Emilion, 13.5% alc.: This inky garnet caused
perhaps the biggest stir of the weekend, both on the night it was tasted
and over the next few weeks on a few Internet wine forums, and not
because it was well received. One taster exclaimed, "The biggest lie
on the label is the alcohol level!"
1990 Coste - Caumartin Pommard, 13% alc.: When I last tasted this deep,
dark garnet about four years ago, it was still monolithic and giving
very little. Since then, it's come around a bit, with very earthy, smoky
black cherry and plum character on a full bodied frame, but it can still
use years in the bottle. I have one left, and it might stay left for
another five to ten years.
1990 Parusso Barolo Bussia, 14% alc.: Rusty dark garnet, with dried
cherry, leather and sea air on the nose, losing the briny breeze in the
mouth; mature and ready, but not as good as I was hoping it would be. Trinka commented on its "raisiny depth," and Blackie opined that it
needs another 10 years.
At that point, I'd had enough and headed for the Graeters cooler.
Bottles were still being opened when I slunk off to dreamland.
I should add that there were several bottles opened
on both evenings that I never got to; some, I never even saw!
Fortunately, Larry Meehan was most diligent in covering not only
at least some of what I missed, but also
providing his opinions on some that I
tasted.