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We’ve been all over the
place with the wines we’ve tasted in the last few weeks and who’d have it
any other way? Some of what we’ve tried hasn’t been to our liking, but with so
much that’s been good, why dwell on negatives? (OK, so there IS one oak casualty
in this report…)
In that spirit, let’s begin with three selections from our
continuing
exploration of the oft- maligned (and often, but definitely not always
rightly so) Gamays of Beaujolais.
2005
Jean-Paul Brun Terres Dorées Côte de Brouilly, 12% alc., $19.55:
Surprisingly dark color (at least to me), but not much nose at first; it
gradually opens to introduce the earthy, dusty raspberry and strawberry flavors,
fairly rich on entry, but bone dry on the finish. Medium full to full bodied,
with the structure to age for 2, 3, 5 or even 10 years. The very antithesis of
all those fruit bowl 71B-anana yeast bombs, and one of the best from Beaujolais
that we’ve had, certainly in the Top 5. Almost Pinot Noir-like, some time in a
decanter doesn’t hurt this at all. Having tried this and the
’05
Beaujolais l'Ancien Vieilles Vignes, we’re believers; now if we could
just get our handses on some of Brun’s Morgon, my precioussss… Find this wine
2004 Coudert Clos de la Roilette Fleurie Cuvée Tardive,
13% alc., $20.40: Smoky ruby color, with a pleasant strawberry-cherry nose
that follows through in the flavors with a solid earthy anchor, finishing on a
drier note than the moderately bright entry might promise, not that that’s a bad
thing. Moderately structured for a few years worth of cellar time, but more than
drinkable now, especially with Kim’s gourmet organic meatloaf (what a concept!).
Pure Gamay and deliciously so. Find this wine
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Jean-Paul Brun & Clos de la Roilette are Louis/Dressner
Selections, Imported by LDM Wines, Inc., New York, NY
2005
Domaine du Vissoux Cuvee Traditionelle Beaujolais Vieilles Vignes, 12% alc.:
Rich ruby red in color, with equally rich black cherry, raspberry and strawberry
flavors and aromas; medium full bodied, with subtle earthy undertones, good
structure and surprising density and concentration. No wimpy Gamay this, and not
hard to see why it’s a favorite of
Cousin Larry Meehan (who I suspect slipped it
surreptitiously into a slot in our cellar in a typical act of kindness that we
know and love him for); we like this even better than the Clos de la Roilette
noted above, and tasted on the same occasion. At least 3-5 years of aging
potential her, and perhaps as many as 8-10. Another glass, please? Find this wine
Imported by Weygandt-Metzler, Unionville, PA
Notes on a couple more Old World dandies, before we cross over to the Americas…
2005
Château Saint Martin de la Garrigue Coteaux du Languedoc Bronzinelle, 13.5%
alc., $14.99: We’ve had a number of vintages of this wine over the years,
but surprisingly only reported our impressions on
the
2000 vintage, which we quite liked. Since then, a few of them haven’t
been received quite so well here at Gang Central, as they showed what we
considered to be excessive oak characteristics. Happily, such is not the case
with the current model; in fact, it’s one of the best wines we tasted for this
report. Showing deep, dark color and flavors and aromas of black olive, smoky
black plum and blackberry, with a somewhat sun-baked character; the black olive
sets the tone of the wine for me. Full bodied, well structured, with substantial
tannins and good acids, this offers excellent depth and concentration, and while
it drinks quite well now, it will easily develop and improve over at least the
next five years. Very tasty indeed! Find this wine
Imported by Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant, Berkeley, CA
2003 Finca Allende Rioja, 13.5% alc., $20.99: Deep, dark color, with a
rich red currant and black cherry personality laced with a good dose of tobacco
and a streak of wood, neither particularly old nor new. Full bodied, muscular
and well structured with dusty tannins and good acids. This is some serious
wine, and I like it a lot; it’s great now and it’s only going to get better. Find this wine
A Jorge Ordonez Selection, Imported by Veritas Distributors,
Inc., Warren, MI
I've just discovered the wines of Argentine producer
Achaval Ferrer
in the last month or so, thanks to some promotional material that I received
from their local distributor, and as a retailer, the notes and scores caught my
attention. We’ve reported on a number of the wines that come from the eastern
slopes of the Andes, mostly with a positive twist, so when I found the two most
reasonably priced bottlings in their book (it’ll probably be awhile before I try
the Altamira, Bella Vista and Mirador Malbecs, which range
in price between $75 and $130 per) at our friendly neighborhood Costco, I took
the plunge, and I have to admit, they’re pretty impressive.
2006
Achaval Ferrer Malbec Mendoza, 13.5% alc., 19.99: Showing a dense, opaque,
impenetrable color, with an initially stingy nose that only gives a little oak
(3-5 year barrels) and black fruit; tight on the palate at first as well, but
the depth and concentration of fruit is undeniable. This really opens nicely
with extended air, offering more and more rich black currant and blackberry
shaded with mocha, smoke, dark chocolate and a hint of earthy decaying
vegetation. Even in its youth (and it will reward patience with five years or
more of cellaring), with its substantial body, depth and structure, it already
gives some indication of the plush texture that is sure to smooth out with age.
I’ll buy more of these at this price. Find this wine
2005 Achaval Ferrer Quimera Mendoza, 37% old vine Malbec, 28% Merlot, 25%
Cabernet Sauvignon, and 10% Cabernet Franc, 13.5% alc., 38.99: Good dark
color, with balsa-like woody overtones to the earthy black currant, mocha and
dusty cocoa flavors and aromas. Impressive for its depth, concentration and
structure, this is easily a 10-15 year wine, and like the regular Malbec noted
directly above, it opens dramatically with air, becoming more than just
approachable, as the balsa wood morphs into toasty oak. More than just
approachable with some time in a decanter, but its best days are still well down
the road for this one. Find this wine
Imported by TGIC Importers, Woodland Hills, CA
As
reported not so long ago, I enjoy the organic wines of
Sobon
Estate, so naturally, I was most interested in trying a new batch, although I’m
not sure why most of the 2005s passed us by. Must be a Michigan thing…
2006
Sobon Estate Zinfandel Hillside Amador County, 13.9% alc., $11.99: Ruby red
color, fading at the rim; moderately expressive but pretty nose of raspberry and
cherry with a pretty little kiss of sweet oak. Spicy flavors echo and expand on
a medium to medium-full-bodied frame with nice concentration, good structure and
some earthy underbrush that emerges with air to add a subtle shade of
complexity. Not the biggest zin and that’s just fine, because the rich fruit
carries the day without clubbing you over the head with excess extraction,
alcohol and/or oak. Well made, food friendly and downright enjoyable now and
over the next few years. Find this wine
2006 Sobon Estate Zinfandel Old Vines Amador County, 14.5% alc., $12.99:
Ruby red color, fading at the rim, with a deeper, darker, spicier black
raspberry, zinberry nose than the ’06 Sobon Hillside Zin; more of the same in
the mouth, with undertones of briar and bramble. Medium full-bodied, with rich
intensity and good structure (the zippy acidity being even more apparent than
the medium tannins). A solid light-heavyweight Amador zin that has the stuffing
to drink well for the next few years. Find this wine
2006
Sobon Estate Zinfandel Fiddletown Amador County, 14.9 % alc., $17.99: Medium
dark ruby red color, with a fragrant nose of spicy red and black raspberry with
subtle undertones of briar/bramble; flavors echo, more or less, but the fruit
isn’t as bright in the mouth, and there’s more briar and bramble. Kim adds
impressions of “peppery and a little hot,” and while there is some heat here, I
don’t find it to be intrusive. Good structure, with ample tannins and acids for
at least a few years worth of further development and classic Amador Zinfandel
character. Find this wine
2005 Sobon Estate Zinfandel Rocky Top Amador County, 14.5% alc., $16.99:
Kim loves the screwcaps on all four of these Sobons, but couldn’t finish a glass of this
one, calling it “undrinkable.” I could, but this, the darkest colored of this
group of Sobon Zins, does show excessive oak that gives a vanilla and coconut
overlay to the rich raspberry, black raspberry and root beer flavors and aromas.
Medium full to full-bodied, with good structure and length, along with nice
depth of fruit. Too bad they mucked up an otherwise nice wine with all that oak. Find this wine
And
finally, there’s the latest batch of wines from the
A to Z Wineworks
out of Oregon, who describe their operation as “Aristocratic Wines at
Democratic Prices;” we’ll withhold comments or speculation, since this is
not a politically oriented website, but readers ARE invited to add their own 2
ounces in our “Comments” function at the top of the page, and maybe we’ll have
some pithy feedback of our own. What did attract my attention to this operation
is the broad ranging group of industry pros involved, including longtime
Domaine Drouhin manager Bill Hatcher and
wife Debra (Veritas, Eyrie and
Domaine Drouhin), winemakers (and husband and wife)
Sam Tannahill (Archery Summit) and
Cheryl Francis (whom we met at our
visit to Chehelam
Vineyards a while back). Even San Antonio Spurs coach
Gregg Popovich is involved in the project.
I like these wines. If they lack that certain something to take them to that
next level, at their price point, who cares? They’re QPR All Stars in my book.
2004 A to Z Night & Day Oregon Red Wine, 13.9% alc., $15.99: A blend of
mainly Merlot, Cabernet Franc and Cabernet Sauvignon, with some Syrah, Dolcetto,
Petit Verdot, Nebbiolo and Tempranillo added for complexity, this offers clean
dark color and rich, ripe blueberry, cherry and raspberry flavors and aromas.
Smooth, moderately structured and just south of going over the top, it is an
unabashed drink-me-now kind of red, and a darned good one at that. Find this wine
2006 A to Z Oregon Pinot Gris, 13% alc., $12.99: Medium straw to pale
gold in color, with fairly ripe pear, sweet pea and mineral flavors and aromas;
medium full to full bodied, with a dense core of fruit and excellent acidity. A
solid specimen that saw no oak and a good match for a variety of fish and fowl
dishes. Find this wine
2006
A to Z Oregon Chardonnay, 13% alc., $14.99: Clean medium straw color, with
pear and sweet pea on the nose; the pure flavors echo expressively, with a
certain steely quality. Good weight and length, excellent cut and concentration,
rich, ripe and balanced. A great example of how good an unoaked Chardonnay can
be, and a fine match with baked chicken. Terrific QPR (quality-price-ratio)! Find this wine
2006 A to Z Oregon Riesling, 13% alc., $12.99: Pale to medium straw
color; green and red apple flavors and aromas with subtle herb, earth and
mineral underneath. There’s no mistaking this for anything but Riesling, and yet
it has a distinctive personality of its own. Medium to medium full bodied, with
excellent acids and very good depth and concentration. A to Z’s inaugural
Riesling release is a winner; another glass, please! Find this wine
2006 A to Z Oregon Pinot Noir, 13.5% alc., $17.99: Ruby red color, almost
light enough to read through; pleasant, straightforward Pinot Noir character,
with slightly smoky black cherry and raspberry with a little earth underneath.
Medium body, moderate tannins, good acids and nice length; nothing flashy here,
just an honest, solid, serviceable PN at a fair price that keeps getting better
and better with air, so much so that you might even give it 30-60 minutes in a
decanter before serving. Find this wine
Reporting from Day-twah,
Bastardo
Other Recent Wine Explorations
Brian Loring Comes
to Town
9 From J et R Selections
Samples & Feeding Frenzies
PotPOURri
More Red Wings & Red Rhônes 2007:
New Wines from Perrin & Fils and More
Champagne Tablas
Swan Zin
(a real mixed bag of goodies)
Dressner Does Day-Twah
Old
Friends & New Faces
Six From
Castello di Corbara
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© George Heritier February, 2008
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