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Once back at home base, there were the obligatory euchre and cribbage games. (Next year I’ll have to remember to take along a chessboard.) And of course, that’s when the corks started to be pulled from the whites.
1995-96 Sean Thackrey Roussanne Alban Vineyard; Pale gold, with a note of oak over pretty pear and little floral hints. Dry flavors echo with plenty of acidity, a stony minerality and a decent finish. An interesting glass of wine, but is it worth $45? We have one that might just sit for a bit to see what develops. 1997 Jean Thevenet Domaine de la Bongran Macon Cleese, 14% alc.: This medium straw smells like wet stones and pears, with half a slice of toast, and the rich flavors echo with an emphasis on the pear that almost seems sweet at first. Good acidity and a nice finish; I could have danced with this all night! 2000 Cloudy Bay Sauvignon Blanc Marlborough, 13.5% alc.: Pale straw; the grapefruit and gooseberry bouquet shows a little sweaty armpit, but doesn’t exactly jump out of the glass. The flavors pick it up nicely, with zippy acidity, but somehow this bottle doesn’t impress as much as previous tastes from the same vintage. Brad correctly pointed out a hollow mid-palate, and I have to say that this was an off-bottle. By then, it was time to get on with the reds. While there was no set theme for the evening, it happened that there were a number of Pinot Noirs and Syrahs that were opened and mostly enjoyed, along with beef tenderloin and ribs, root vegetables and a mushroom mélange.
1998 Belle Pente Willamette Pinot Noir, 12.8% alc.: This smoky ruby garnet has BIG smoke and toast that all but overwhelms the black cherry and plum on the nose, but the fruit peeks out more in the rich, substantial flavors. Smooth and not too tannic, with good acidity, this was another that everyone liked, and I may have preferred to several other Pinots that magically appeared. 1999 Domaine Coteaux Yamhill Pinot Noir, 13% alc.: Moe’s pretty hot on this dark garnet, but the nose isn’t nearly as explosive as the Belle Pente. It features nice, straightforward smoky black cherry and plum flavors and aromas; lovely, with good acidity and a nice finish, but needs some years to resolve the significant tannins. 1999 Sine Qua Non "Ox" Oregon Pinot Noir Yamhill Shea Vineyard: This purple dark garnet shows a smoky plum bouquet that follows through on the palate with what Larry calls "Christmas spices – cinnamon." Kim called these flavors "rock ‘n’ rye and Teaberry Gum ® and she was right on. Good acidity here, and it’s not too tannic to drink now. Larry said that this seems more Californian than Oregonian to him, but whatever the case, it’s different and interesting. 1999 Lane Tanner Santa Maria Valley Pinot Noir Bien Nacido Vineyard, 12.8% alc.: Dark garnet, with smoky black cherry toast on the nose, this turns a little vegetal on the palate. Not as dense or substantial as the other Pinots, it has decent tannins and good acidity, making for a nice wine that needs to be considered on its own terms, away from a crowd such as this lineup. 1998 Au Bon Climat Santa Maria Valley Pinot Noir "Knox Alexander," 13.5% alc.: This ruby garnet is already showing just a hint of brick, along with tarry, smoky black cherry flavors and aromas. Moe noted some "tangy tangerine on the back end," while Norma somehow got a little "dill pickle." Bill called it "distinctive," and we were all impressed by the big three finger punt in the bottom of the big, heavy bottle; you could commit some serious mayhem swinging it in a crowd! The wine was well received; if you have it or find it somewhere, give it about five years in the cellar to meller out.
1997 Sean Thackrey Orion, 13.9% alc.: Everybody remarked upon the "eucalyptus" in this inky garnet Syrah, and Moe said it was "like drinking night." There’s a lot of tar over plum shaded with some leather and hints of barnyard in the flavors and aromas, and it’s remarkably approachable with "an incredibly sweet attack," according to Andy. Tannins clamp down on the mid-palate on back through the finish, but further bottle age should rectify that. Long legs stain the glass even more than the previous wines. 1996 Jamet Côte Rôtie, 12.5% alc.: This dark garnet is all game and garrigue over plum character; Brad and Moe added impressions of "pepper," and Bill mentioned "bacon fat and olive." Larry noted " a slight fecal residue," and I imagine he meant to add "in a good way," because I know that he just loves this wine. Not too tannic, with good acidity and a long finish, I’d be hard pressed to keep my hands off of this if I had any. 1998 Fox Creek Reserve Shiraz: I always thought this wine was overrated, and this latest taste did nothing to change that opinion. It’s as dark as night and like drinking a combination of maple and blueberry syrup, but the VA is raging like a teenager’s hormones. Larry said, "It scorched my nose, and my tongue is still burning." No mas! 1998 Alban Edna Valley Syrah "Reva": An opaque purple with understated plum and underbrush on the nose and what Andy described as "bacon fat, pepper and a little exotic floral element." The flavors pick all these elements up and run for the first down, if not the goal line; it’s not too tannic, and may actually need more time for the acidity to tone down a little. A nice wine that thankfully, I didn’t try right after the Jamet of the Clape. 1990 Domaine du Clos des Brusquieres Chateauneuf du Pape, 14% alc.: A somewhat rusty dark garnet with a sweet beautiful nose of cedar, plum and hints of leather that’s almost floral. These follow through on the palate with good acidity, and the tannins are almost, but not quite resolved. So nice, almost perfect. Moe had a little spill with some of this and quipped, "I had an out-of-glass experience." |
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© Gang of Pour March, 2002 |
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Storyline:
George Heritier
1969
1993
Clape Cornas, 12.5% alc.: Kim
said that this slightly rusty dark garnet smells like an ashtray, and as
it opens, there IS a hint of something like ash in this, but it takes
its proper place as an integral part of the greater whole. Plenty of
mineral, plum, iodine and smoke in the flavors and aromas, and it’s not
too tannic, with just enough acidity to make it all come together very
nicely. Easily one of my favorite reds of the night, and I snuck a
second pour later in the evening, surprised that any was left.
1999
