Storyline:
George Heritier 1998 Poliziano Vino Nobile di Montepulciano, 13% alc.: It seemed reasonable to me that, being Italian, this and the following selection would fit the evening’s theme perfectly, and I suppose they do make good pizza wines, if you’re a fan of the international style. A big kiss of sweet oak hits the raspberry and black cherry flavors and aromas of this ruby dark garnet libation hard; it has the good acidity that one would expect, and it’s not too terribly tannic. Somewhat lighter in body than I expected, it seems to lose a little something on the mid-palate, and that impression follows right on through the finish. Brad Ballinger commented on "a lot of oak and anise," and we both agreed that this doesn’t seem very "Eye-talian" at all. This was an also-ran among the night’s wines, and I wouldn’t pay the suggested retail price of $22.99 for it. 1998 Poliziano Vino Nobile di Montepulciano "Asinone", 13.5% alc.: A darker garnet than the previous wine, it shows darker fruit too, with spicy black cherry and tarry undertones, but with a BIG smack of sweet oak, it smells more Californian than Italian, and it tastes that way too. A bit more tannic than the regular model, with the requisite acidity, but again, I’d like more body, depth and intensity. Not a "bad" wine by any means, but not my cup of tea either, and way overpriced at the suggested $42.99. Neither wine went over very well with the congregation; in fact my impressions were more forgiving than many. There was a brief break from the red stuff, as Larry appeared with a giant platter of steamed mussels, and a couple more whites were uncorked. 1996 Domaine du Closel Savenničres, 13.5% alc.: This pale straw shows anise right away on the nose, with stony dry apple following up. Flavors echo with the apple coming a bit more to the fore, an added hint of detergent, good acidity and a nice long finish. Larry hijacked my notebook and wrote "great with the mussels," and I wouldn’t THINK of contradicting him! (Larry’s
own notes read: "…talk
about a wine made for my mussels!!! A beguiling nose of sea air, a rainy
forest, and ground anise...later more floral and wet stone. Lime and
grapefruit combine with herbs and mineral on the palate and are set off
against a racy, beguiling acidity. Why, oh why did I add so much of this
wine to the broth??? I'll pacify myself by saying it made the
"sauce" taste great. Super wine/ super match for $15.") 1994 Ridge Lytton Springs, 1.5 L, 80% Zinfandel, 13% Petite Sirah, 4% Carignan, 2% Grenache, 1% Alicante, 14.3% alc.: This dark garnet Mr. Ridge is only faintly rusty at this point in its evolution; a hint of funk blows off, leaving a Draper kiss of oak over lots of raspberries and cherries on the nose. The flavors echo, though not as ebulliently as many vintages before or after, with good acidity and some tannins still to resolve. It could finish a little longer for me, but all in all, this is the best ’94 LS that I’ve tasted. Maybe the larger format bottle has something to do with that? A big hit with most, and Andy’s Wine of the Night. 1997 Ridge Paso Robles Zinfandel Late Picked, 95% Zinfandel, 5% Petite Sirah, 15.6% alc.: Typically dark garnet, big overripe raspberry and mulberry with a kick of alcohol explode from the glass, and flavors more than echo, with LOTS of acidity. Amy chimed in with impressions of "medicine cabinet, kind of Band-aid-y rubber gloves." The obligatory Draper perfume is somewhat overwhelmed by all the fruit. It’s good though. 1999 Domaine l’Aigueličre Coteaux du Languedoc Montpeyroux Côte Doree, 12.5% alc.: This inky garnet has big coffee and dark berry flavors and aromas, with just a hint of the barnyard, some tarry notes and a little garrigue too. Not too tannic to really enjoy now; Moe informed me that this is made up of lots of Syrah, with Grenach and MoeVedre in support. One of the Wines of the Night for this taster. Mary and Kim (right) 1992 Spottswoode Napa Cabernet Sauvignon: I missed the alcohol content on this inky dark garnet; it’s possible that it wasn’t listed. All I know is that as far as I can remember, it was my first ever taste of this producer’s wares (you know me, I’m not a big Cabernet guy), and I was mighty impressed. It still smells young, with sweet oak, cassis and raspberry flavors and aromas shaded with a little cigar box, and I wouldn’t argue with Larry’s impressions of cedar and charcoal either. Still some tannins to mellow here, and decent acidity. Like it says in my notebook, nice stuff! 1993 Heitz Napa Cabernet Sauvignon Trailside, 13.5% alc.: This is a slightly rusty dark garnet with an effusive red currant, cassis nose graced with a lovely kiss of oak; just so pretty! These follow through on the palate with good acidity and a very nice finish, and the tannins don’t intrude upon the lovely character. These notes don’t do the wine justice, and this may well have been my Wine of the Night. (Larry added impressions of "toasty cedar on the nose; dusty; plenty of cassis on the palate; cedar stick/spicy finish.) By this time, we’d had a swim and performed our ritual chanting in the pool, so I was through taking notes. But there were more wines to try (for Larry, Moe and me anyway), and Larry did the honors by acting as the scribe. 1992 Lewis Napa Cabernet Sauvignon Oakville Ranch, 13% alc.: Roasted corn, spice, tarragon on the nose, with spicy oak, though a lesser player… fleshy, but a bit hot on the palate -- more spicy oak/charred embers, black cherry. After initial spice, turns soft and smooth in texture, and finishes bitter and astringent. 1999 Ravenswood Napa Zinfandel Dickerson, 14.6% alc.: Sweet coffee -- cherry syrup -- big sweet blackberry nose -- a bit hot… soft, wet juicy berry -- some underbrush -- spicy and hot on the finish. In general, very ripe/soft/warm… not much apparent structure. 1999 Carlisle Dry Creek Valley Zinfandel, 15.6% alc.: Floral, bright dusty nose -- slightly sharp with alcohol -- maple syrup -- sweet syrupy black fruit… dense hot feel -- pretty viscous. Hot spicy finish -- persistent but burning. 1999 Carlisle Russian River Valley Zinfandel, 16.3% alc.: Big alcohol, sweet ripe fruit -- a very interesting cola presence -- not really familiar with this in Zins. It was a terrific night, but I didn’t even come close to trying all of the wines that were opened. Larry helped me out again on some of the ones that I missed. (How did I NOT try the Ogier?! I put it off for a while, having already tasted it last August, and then it was simply gone…) 1999 Castello di Farnetella Chianti Colli
Senesi -- good, cheap Chianti!
Bright cherry notes...the expected earthy core...good acids...a bit
rustic on the finish. 1998 Fattorio Poggiopiano Rosso de Sera
-- big, sweet, creamy and dripping...pretty big
and hard tannins...most definitely "internationally styled". |
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© Gang of Pour March, 2002 |