Ravenswood Icon 2003 $20.00
This mélange of Syrah, Greneache and Mourvedre has a nose chock full of black
fruit and minerals. The palate is quite full, fruit laden and steely with a
finish of dark fruit confit.
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Ravenswood Zen of Zin 2004 Old Vine $18.00
This is kiddie Zin. Made to attract the tastes of a younger demographic. It is
full of sweet sweet zinberry, cherry cola and leaves a creamy note on the close.
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Ravenswood Lodi Zinfandel 2004 $15.00
This Zin shows lots of dusty, cocoa along with sweet blackberry, black cherry
and blueberry aromas. I find it a trifle hot on the finish, but the tasty layer
of dark fruit and couveture chocolate helps to tone down the heat.
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Ravenswood Napa Zinfandel 2004 $15.00
I find this has more concentration and better structure than the Lodi rendition.
There are plenty of sweet Asian spices, along with plum, raspberry and dark
fruit. The acids are lively and the finish has good length.
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Ravenswood Sonoma Zinfandel 2004 $17.50
Notes of coffee and vanilla are subdued by an up front and powerful layer of
freshly baked blackberry pie and raspberry puree. The fruit seems more focused
than the Napa bottling, the finish is creamy and has plenty of dusty chocolate
tannin.
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Ravenswood Estate Merlot 2002 $25.00
A lively wine with a nose full of blackberry, red cherry, plum and anise. The
mid palate is fruit focused and the tannins appear nicely integrated.
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Ravenswood’s single vineyard designate wines:
Ravenswood
Monte Rosso Vineyard 2002 $32.00
Monte Rosso is one of the oldest vineyards in Sonoma County. It is located on
the Mayacamas range at over 1,000 feet elevation. It is named for its distinct
red soil comprised of mineral-rich decomposed volcanic rock. The nose offers
lots of spicy dark fruit, Dutch liquorish, vanilla, underbrush and wet leaves.
The palate is ripe and rich; the finish shows black cherry and cinnamon. It needs
time.
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Ravenswood Cooke Vineyard 2002 $50.00
Cooke Vineyard is about 25 years old, and is about one mile from Ravenswood in
the Mayacamas Mountain Range. The vineyard is located on Admiral Cooke Road. A
really ripe and spicy Zin that offers earthy mineral notes with rhubarb, a solid
core of red fruit and cinnamon. It is not the biggest wine on the palate, but it
is elegant and very complex. The palate shows tons of raspberry and strawberry
fruit flavors, decent acid, and plenty of tannin.
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Ravenswood Barricia Vineyard 2002 $32.00
Many of the ten acres
of Zinfandel vines here are 100 plus years old. The Petite Syrah was planted in
1998. The soil is composed of volcanic cobble red clay loam. This exudes
some pretty notes of raspberry, plum, lavender and balsa. The mid palate is
still quite tight and revealing little. It too needs time. 19% of the wine from
this vintage is composed of Petite Syrah. Maybe that’s why?
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Ravenswood Pickberry Vineyard 1999 Sonoma Mountain $NA
This field
blend of 72% Merlot, 26% Cabernet Sauvignon and 2% Cab Franc has a massive nose
of black raspberry ripple, cake spice and lavender. Secondary notes of stewed
plum, cherry, dried morel, wet leaves, clove and tobacco are all lurking
beneath. The finish is dusty, with a whack of fruit and an earthy quality that
is so appealing. Quite lovely indeed.
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Ravenswood Gregory Vineyard, Sonoma Valley 2001. $30.00
This ten-acre clay/loam vineyard southeast of Sonoma was planted in 1945 with
Cabernet Sauvignon. In 1983 five acres of Merlot were planted and in 1987
Ravenswood began to source fruit from this locale. There are notes of minty
Eucalyptus, some dark berry, blueberry coulis and red liquorish. It is kind of
light on the palate and the finish, although clean and well balanced, chooses
not to hang around.
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Joel Peterson happened to be in the winery while I tasted and I had the chance
to meet with him. He is a soft-spoken, but passionate man, who took time from his
schedule to open bottles of the currently unreleased 2004 for yours truly to
sample.
Ravenswood Dickerson Vineyard 2004
This ten-acre plot due south of St Helena is deep in the heart of Napa Valley.
The eucalyptus-lined vineyard is full of old, dry-farmed, head-pruned vines of
Zinfandel that produce extraordinary bright, elegant, sumptuous and aromatic wines.
According to Ravenswood's website, 4 acres were planted 1930, 3 acres were
planted in 1979, and 3 acres planted in 1985. We started here as Joel considers it to be the lighter of his single vineyard
wines, though by no means “wimpy." It is full of aromas of raspberry and cedar
augmented by a lively streak of acid, Szechuan peppercorns, tree bark and earth.
The palate is so well balanced and full of raspberry fruit, vanilla and a trace of
white pepper.
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Ravenswood Belloni Vineyard Russian River 2004
This 90 something vineyard is full of Zinfandel, Carignane, Alicante Bouschet,
and Petite Sirah. Ravenswood started purchasing this fruit from
Ricardo Belloni, a native of the village of
Varsi in Emilia Romagna, in 1991. Russian River’s cool location means this is
often the last vineyard harvested for Ravenswood. All the grapes used in
this blend are fermented together. This produces a wine full of Moroccan spice,
black fruit, boysenberry and Ribena. Right now it is tightly wound, very creamy
and really needs a lot of time to come around.
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Ravenswood Barricia Vineyard 2004
Each wine in this flight gets progressively darker. Joel lets me know “we have
moved out of the subtle wines section.” These small berry clusters produced a
wine that bellows aromas of blackberry, boysenberry, cherry and cassis. The
tannin grips, white pepper hits the palate, but the fruit controls the finish.
Try this in ten years, no less, and you will have a winner!
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Ravenswood Teldeschi Vineyard, Dry Creek Sonoma 2004
Franco Teldeschi moved from Italy to
California and started growing grapes to sell to fellow countrymen in San
Francisco. When Ravenswood was a fledgling winery in the early seventies, Joel
Peterson, so impressed after a session with a bottle or two of
Franco’s homemade wine one afternoon, agreed to purchase a couple of tons. A power lunch sales
trick from bygone decades! Today Frank's son John is also a grape grower,
and the Teldeschis still sell fruit to home winemakers. But a few years ago
their truck blew up near the Golden Gate Bridge, so John doesn't deliver grapes
to San Francisco any more. This turned out to be another break for Joel, who
swears that he didn't do anything to the truck but does now produce a wine made
exclusively from Teldeschi grapes. Some of the vines are 90 years old, and the
grapes are the classic Italian-Californian field blend: Zinfandel, Petite Sirah
and Carignane.
Certainly the darkest wine of the 04’s this wine exudes aromas of dark cherry,
vanilla, chocolate, Asian spice and black fruit. It is highly extracted to the
point were the concentration of fruit gives one a false impression of the
tannins that lie beneath. It is going to be a stunner, but it will need time to
reach that pinnacle.
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Reporting from the valley,
CZ
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Robert Biale
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