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 Santa Cruzin’... West of the Hill From the Summit to the Sea Day the First In Which I Barely Escape the Swirling Vortex that is Santa Cruz |
 Santa Cruzin’… West of the Hill From the Summit to the Sea Day the Second In Which I am Overwhelmed by Euphemistic Cartography |
 Santa Cruzin’… East of the Hill From the Summit to the Bay Day the Third In Which I am Transported Back Fifty Years by Loudon Wainwright |
 Santa Cruzin’… East of the Hill From the Summit to the Bay Day the Fourth In Which the Yin and Yang of All Things Gently Asserts Itself |
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I awoke early and had myself dressed, packed and out the door before my hosts had arisen. I set up shop at a nearby Peet’s Coffee, and was soon properly caffeinated and wifi’d. I arranged my day’s itinerary, thankful that I would spend my time in the mountains and not have to drive out to the coast and back. I hit the road, map in one hand, booster cupa in the other and started my trek into the hills.  But before I start my tasting notes, let me say a word about wine event maps that are “not drawn to scale”. AARRRGGGHHHHHHHHH!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! This is what I refer to as “euphemistic cartography”, and therein lies an inherent intellectual dishonesty that boggles my feeble mind. It lulls the unwary participant into a false sense of security, then abruptly yanks the geographic rug out from under. It proves that all miles are equal, but some are more equal than others. (Sigh……………..) I actually had a rather scenic drive, since neither the contour nor the condition of the road would permit speed in excess of 30 mph. Fortunately, the logging trucks the roadside signs frequently warned of were nowhere to be seen After what I initially thought would be a 40 minute drive, but wound up taking more than twice that time, I finally arrived at Big Basin Vineyards. (If you plan to visit, be sure to pick up Route 236 in Boulder Creek, and not up near the summit.) |
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Big Basin Redwoods State Park, this old ranch property was first settled in the
late 1800s and was planted to wine grapes by
French immigrants by the 1900s and continued until the property was sold to a
timber company in 1965. The site was purchased in 1998 by
Bradley Brown, (above) the proprietor and winemaker. He sought
guidance about plantings from John Alban,
who also encouraged him to make his own wine. The estate vineyards are planted
to a variety of Alban Syrah clones and just a bit of Grenache. I took a few moments to regain my equilibrium and shake the mist from my senses. Then, my first taste of the day was the… 2008 Big Basin Vineyards Aura Rosé of Syrah – saigneé, barrel fermented, indigenous yeasts; 14.9% alcohol 150 cases produced $22 Pretty salmon color – pleasant strawberry notes with floral highlights – crisp and refreshing on the palate with a hint of sweetness, but a more dominant minerality. Find this wine 2007 Big Basin Vineyards Pinot Noir Santa Cruz Mountains Branciforte Ridge Vineyards – unfined, unfiltered 14.3% alcohol 75 cases produced $39 Brilliant ruby color – slightly subdued but very attractive Bing cherry and red plum aromatics – rather gentle entry – medium bodied in the mouth, but shows very nice balance and I would not be surprised if it took on more weight with a little time in bottle. Find this wine 2007 Big Basin Vineyards Pinot Noir Santa Cruz Mountains Bald Mountain Vineyard – unfined, unfiltered, whole berry cold soak 14.2% alcohol 100 cases produced. Brilliant bright garnet color with pretty and forward Bing and red cherry aromas – the flavors follow the nose, yielding a medium weight wine with a mild lingering tartness on the palate that is quite pleasant and will complement the right food choices. Find this wine 2006 Big Basin Vineyards Sri Red – 100% Syrah whole berry fermented 14.3% alcohol 50 cases produced Pretty purple color – very attractive ripe and decidedly New World Syrah aromas in the nose – certainly more friendly in the nose than on the palate at this point – the fruit is restrained and there’s a hint of bitterness in the mouth and on the finish. Find this wine 2006 Big Basin Vineyards Mandala Syrah – 100% Syrah whole berry cold soak 14.3% alcohol 300 cases produced $39 Deep garnet color – ripe and sweet notes over generic Syrah aromas – certainly more friendly in the mouth that the previous wine – with some swirling, the aromas develop some complexity and perfume – the flavors are broad and ripe with smooth but significant tannins that cause the wine to finish abruptly on the midpalate. However, I like the wine’s balance and structure – it’s just young. Find this wine  2006 Big Basin Vineyards Syrah Santa Lucia Highlands Fairview Ranch
– 100% Syrah whole berry cold soak 14.7% alcohol 270 cases produced $39Deep and dark ruby color – here’s the real deal; the aromas approach effusive, inviting – conjures memories of some the Lagnier – Meredith Syrahs I’ve enjoyed in the past – broad mouthfeel with flavors that hint at Northern Rhone – tannins are moderate but smooth – firm acid backbone – should be good for a decade of aging or longer – there’s also a clarity and focus to the wine that is far from the syrupy muddled mess of Syrah that plagues the Santa Lucia Highlands – shows great promise. Find this wine 2006 Big Basin Vineyards Syrah Estate Rattlesnake Rock – 14.1% alcohol 285 cases produced $54 Slightly lighter hue than the Fairview – lovely light New World Syrah aromas that have focus and clarity – the flavors are broad yet focused with significant tannins (which supports my hypothesis regarding the relative youth of these wines). Find this wine These are not “pop and pour” wines intended for immediate consumption – they require some time in the bottle to develop and flesh out and reach their full potential. 2007 Big Basin Vineyard Syrah Santa Lucia Highlands Fairview Ranch – bottled three days prior to these notes – not yet released Understandably shy nose, although some pretty Syrah aromas can be coaxed – similar flavors to the 06, although there’s more depth of flavor – this will turn out to be a much bigger wine – a hint of steminess in the flavors that I find quite pleasing. Find this wine My sense is that these wines are not showing their best because they are simply too young and just need some bottle age to develop and come together. They do not lack balance or proper structure. I’m reminded that tasting notes are simply snapshots in the life of a wine, and that I’m viewing these wines at a time when they are allowing us to see far less than their full potential. There is also a stylistic consistency that I find very reassuring and an impression that this winemaker knows when to step back and get out of the way. These are spoof-free wines that need to be enjoyed on their own terms. Well done.  It was a carefree cruise downhill to Boulder Creek and
Scopazzi’s Restaurant,
where Dexter and Val Ahlgren
(left) were pouring their
wines. Scopazzi’s has been a family owned restaurant since 1955 and likely has
not changed much, except for cosmetic upgrades, since that time.In 1973, the Ahlgrens moved to the Santa Cruz Mountains and built a home and winery a few miles north of Boulder Creek. They acquired their bond in 1976 and have become part of the modern history of the appellation. They crushed Cabernet Sauvignon from the first commercial vintage of Bates Ranch and were instrumental in the formation of the Santa Cruz Mountains Vintners, along with Dave Bennion of Ridge Vineyards and the young winemaker at Mount Eden Vineyards, Merry Edwards. Their daughters are married and have businesses of their own, so it is unlikely the winery and vineyard will remain in the family. As they get older and the physical demands of running the business become more of a challenge, the Ahlgrens are looking for a buyer. I had the pleasure of chatting with them briefly, then moved on to taste the wines. 2005 Ahlgren Semillon Livermore Valley – from a vineyard owned by the Wente Family 252 cases produced $17 Pale brassy color – somewhat shy nose, but shows identifiable Semillon fruit – pretty fruit flavors in the mouth, showing ripeness balanced with good acidity that keeps the wine refreshing – does not display the austere minerality I associate with this variety, but is quite delicious and fun to drink. Find this wine 2007 Ahlgren Pinot Noir Santa Cruz Mountains Veranda Vineyard – located in the hills above Watsonville 240 cases produced $28.50 Slightly dusky rose color – aromatically restrained, showing hints of wild strawberry – sweet and understated in the mouth with some residual but fine tannins up front – a lovely lighter style Pinot that would pair nicely with certain seafood dishes. Find this wine 2005 Ahlgren Cabernet Sauvignon Santa Cruz Mountains Bates Ranch – 226 cases produced $37.50 Very pretty garnet color – unmistakable SCM Cabernet aromas carrying what I have come to recognize as the AVAs signature: a certain minerality/graphite component in the aromas as well as in the flavors – I think with more exposure, I might begin to recognize Bates Ranch the same way I recognize the Monte Bello Cabernets – there is a very distinctive aromatic and flavor profile and this wine simply smells good. Certainly not a fruit bomb, or even fruit forward, this is a more restrained style, showing distinctive SCM fruit with particularly attractive acidity – has most excellent structure and will easily age for a decade and more – best in five years or so. Find this wine 2004 Ahlgren Cabernet Franc Santa Cruz Mountains Bates Ranch – 90% Cabernet Franc 10% Cabernet Sauvignon 108 cases produced $28 Beautiful Franc cherry/berry aromas – the perfect ripeness of the fruit avoids the green/herbal/olive notes that mar some versions of this variety – soft entry and very sweet on the palate – quite a lovely wine that is drinking very well right now – there are some smooth tannins up front, but this is a wine that I could drink tonight with a grilled Porterhouse or age over the near term. Very nicely done and an excellent value. Find this wine 2002 Ahlgren Syrah Monterey Ventana Vineyards – 112 cases produced $15 Dusty ruby color – initially, some high tone perfume – somewhat bitter in the mouth with hints of char – has little charm or appeal – too much toast on the oak, I would guess. Find this wine Ahlgren Zinfandel NV Livermore Valley – a blend of 2005 and 2006 fruit 16.9% alcohol (!) 2% residual sugar 375 cases produced $35 Shows some sweet Zinberry fruit in the nose in a late picked/late harvest style – good balance - certainly not a table wine or a wine intended to be sipped on its own, but might be nice at the end of a meal or to accompany a chocolate or nut dessert. Find this wine. I then motored further just a few miles south on Route 9 to Ben Lomond, where the Tyrolean Inn offers Bavarian and German cuisine “like Grandma used to cook at home.” Indeed, the chalet-styled building could have been airlifted directly from the Alps to its present location.  These nice folks were hosting
Muccigrosso Vineyards, a small, family owned winery who first
planted vines on their property in 1983 and bottled the first vintage for their
own label in 2000. They produce between 800 and 1000 cases a year, custom
crushed at Byington Winery. After chatting with the family, it
became clear that they were still mourning the death of their young winemaker,
Jacob Kaufmann. Hopefully, they
and the winery will recover from this difficult loss and continue crafting what
I think are some very fine wines. (Michael Muccigrosso,
left)2005 Muccigrosso Pinot Noir – from the estate vineyard on Bear Creek Road and another family owned vineyard $35 Slightly dusky garnet color – fairly shy nose – pretty and sweet Pinot fruit on the palate with a hint of steminess and some tannins on the front end that will need a little time to integrate – all in all, a pretty Pinot that should improve texturally with a little time in bottle. Find this wine 2006 Muccigrosso Pinot Noir – the same fruit sources $35 More expressive, ripe red berry and Bing cherry aromas with a hint of pleasant perfume – friendly entry with balanced, medium weight flavors and tannins that were far more effectively managed with this vintage, yielding a far more drinkable wine. A rather pleasant little Pinot. Find this wine 2005 Muccigrosso Table Two – a proprietary blend 50% Syrah 50% Sangiovese with “a touch of Estate Cabernet Sauvignon and a touch of Petit Syrah” $25 Attractive, deep ruby color – shy aromas that yield up some ripe Sangiovese notes – soft entry with ripe fruit flavors – more generic than varietal, but leaves a pleasant palate impression – some light to moderate tannins coat the front of the palate that likely just need time. Not a bad value. Find this wine 2006 Muccigrosso Table Two – very similar blend $25 Similar deep garnet color as the 2005 – there’s a certain dustiness in the nose that I attribute to the Sangiovese – interestingly, the Syrah does not dominate the nose, nor the flavors – very user-friendly in the mouth – slightly richer with more concentrated flavors than the 2005 – a good value. Find this wine 2004 Muccigrosso Lyn Zin – a blend of several Zinfandel sources $20 Pretty ruby color in the glass – lovely ripe Zin cherry flavors up front in a medium weight package – has a clean mouthfeel and ready to drink – not a powerhouse wine – more like a throwback to the elegant, food friendly Zinfandels of the early 90s. Find this wine 2005 Muccigrosso Lyn Zin - $20 Similar clarity of color – perhaps just a bit more expressive aromatically, but more in the cherry flavor neighborhood than the dark, plumy side of Zinfandel – it tastes like Claret-style fruit that’s been made in a more fruit forward and friendly style. Very attractive and pleasing in the mouth – shows a bit more tannin up front, which I think is more a function of the vintage for this winery – it does not detract from the wine – finishes cleanly and is a lot of fun to drink. Find this wine 2006 Muccigrosso Lyn Zin - $20 Equally attractive aromatically, although it’s appeal is a bit more broad and less focused toward cherry – there’s a hint of raspberry as well, which is quite nice – the flavors follow the nose, with cherry and red raspberry flavors predominating in a medium weight package with some fine tannin and the requisite acidity to hold it all together. These are food friendly Zinfandels that remind me of the dozens of lovely Zins that attracted me to the variety some fifteen years ago, long before the “Turleyization” of Zinfandel. The full list price of these Zinfandels is $20 – today they are being offered at $17 with an additional 20% case discount – an astonishing value. Find this wine 2005 Muccigrosso Stan Zin – from the Moniz Vineyard in Morgan Hill $20 Some dusty austerity in the nose – sweet and ripe in the mouth, carrying a firm acid backbone – some front end tannins suggest the wine could use a year or two of bottle age – shows great promise – surely the rival of bottlings offered at twice the price. Find this wine 2006 Muccigrosso Stan Zin - $20 Pretty deep ruby color – a bit shy in the nose, showing some deep berry aromas – lots of sweet cherry/Zinberry up front in a medium weight package – a bit more distinctive than the Lyn Zin, but that is not a criticism, merely an observation. Perhaps it’s the single vineyard sourcing that creates that impression. Finishes cleanly with just a hint of briar on the back end. Find this wine These Zinfandels from Muccigrosso are by far the most delightful discovery and QPR find of this weekend. Great Zinfandel and amazing value. Bravo !!!  A few more miles south brought me into the town of Felton and a turn west onto
the Felton-Empire Road brought me to
Hallcrest
Vineyards.The history of Hallcrest dates back to its naming in the late 1880s. Originally a retreat for the Hall family, they planted vineyards on the property in 1941 – thirteen acres of White Riesling and Cabernet Sauvignon - and added a winery in 1945. One of only three wineries in the Santa Cruz Mountains at the time, they released their first wines in 1946. Following Chaffee Hall’s death, the winery operated as Felton – Empire Winery until the Schumacher family purchased the estate in 1987 and restored the original name. (John Schumacher, winemaker, right) 2006 Hallcrest Vineyards Sauvignon Blanc Santa Cruz Mountains Belle Farms Vineyard – I was told this was the only Sauvignon Blanc produced in the Santa Cruz Mountains. The vineyard is located near Watsonville at an 800 foot elevation. 282 cases produced $19.95 Brass color – most decidedly toward the herbal/gooseberry end of the SB spectrum – actually, closer to eucalyptus – if tasted blind, I would likely guess New Zealand – however, very clean and refreshing in the mouth, belying the aromatic profile – shows fresh and lively peach and melon flavors with some citrus overtones. Find this wine Organic Wine Works “Great White” – 13.5% alcohol a blend of varieties with significant residual sugar Could not get past the first taste and could not swallow. 2005 Hallcrest Vineyards Pinot Noir Ciardella Vineyard – 13.5% alcohol from a dry farmed vineyard Pale and dusty rose color in the glass – shows a little strawberry/rhubarb in the nose, but also some alcohol – fairly delicate flavor profile, toward the red cherry/strawberry portion of the spectrum – less alcohol on the palate than in the nose, and that may be due to serving temperature. If the wine were cooled down a bit, the alcohol would certainly be less noticeable. Lovely texture, and for those who prefer a more delicate and elegantly styled Pinot, this might suit you quite well. Find this wine 2005 Hallcrest Vineyards Pinot Noir Vista del Mar Vineyard – 14.5% alcohol $45 Deep and clear ruby color – lovely Pinot perfume wafts from the bowl of the glass – very pretty nose – soft entry with sweet and attractive red cherry fruit that is inviting – the flavors broaden out on the palate into a medium weight package – additional swirlitude reveals some very appealing perfume overtones – all in all, a lovely wine that’s drinking well right now. Hallcrest was also offering a barrel tasting of Pinot Noir – all 2008 fruit from the same block, but with different inoculated yeasts. The age of the barrels varies as well. Find this wine Assmannshausen yeast – pretty Pinot perfume with a touch of sulfur on this sample – supple and friendly in the mouth with a creamy texture. Lalvin BM 45 yeast – similar aromatically, but with a bit more perfume on the top end – decidedly cherry flavors with more forward acids that suggest a bit more structure. Lalvin RC212 (Bourgovin) – a bit more Bing and black cherry in the nose –baritone, rather than alto tones – an almost tart cherry flavor on the back end, yielding additional character and structure. A not-strictly-scientific, but decidedly interesting object lesson on the potential effects of inoculated yeasts on wine in barrel – additional hues on the winemakers’ palette. 2003 Hallcrest Vineyards Zinfandel Lake County Nova Vineyards – 188 cases produced $27.95 Berry and sour cherry aromas – slightly under-ripe Zincherry flavors in the mouth – medium weight – shows a little dust in the flavors – finishes short. I suspect ripeness was an issue in this vintage. Find this wine It was a long drive back to the Alluvial Plains and I had ample time to reflect on the weekend’s adventure. Like all adventures, there were disappointments and discoveries, spits and swallows, memorable wines and forgettable wines. I could only guess what next weekend held in store. (Or could I?) Wine of the Day – Muccigrosso Vineyards Lyn Zin – choose any of the three
vintages for a step back fifteen years when Zinfandel was not a cocktail wine,
paired well with a variety of foods and didn’t need to carry an EPA warning on
the label. Add extraordinary value, and this is a sure winner, along with the
Stan Zin.
Winery of the Day – Big Basin Vineyards – the stylistic consistency and lack of spoof made this an easy choice. I hope to have an opportunity to taste some older vintages.
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