califusa header 







Gang of Pour logo




line
epilogue
line
Santa Cruzin' - Vortex
Santa Cruzin’...
West of the Hill
From the Summit to the Sea
Day the First
In Which I Barely Escape the Swirling Vortex that is
Santa Cruz
Santa Cruzin' - Sign
Santa Cruzin’…
West of the Hill
From the Summit to the Sea
Day the Second
In Which I am
Overwhelmed by
Euphemistic Cartography
Santa Cruzin' - Dead Skunk
Santa Cruzin’…
East of the Hill
From the Summit to the Bay
Day the Third
In Which I am Transported
Back Fifty Years by
Loudon Wainwright
Santa Cruzin' - Yin Yang
Santa Cruzin’…
East of the Hill
From the Summit to the Bay
Day the Fourth
In Which the Yin and Yang
of All Things Gently
Asserts Itself

I would not call this series of tastings comprehensive by any means, but I was able to visit with twenty six wineries and taste 130 wines in two weekends – more than enough to give me a good representational sample of what the appellation has to offer.

There is no doubt in my mind that the Santa Cruz Mountains has the potential to produce distinctive, and in some cases, superior wines. Most significant for me is the unmistakable terroir of the appellation: mineral driven Chardonnay; elegant and balanced Pinot Noir. And while not primarily known as Cabernet Sauvignon country, the appellation offers Bates Ranch and Monte Bello, among others - both clearly producing wines that rank among the finest in California.

My experience, however, was a study in contrast. Some of my highest expectations became my biggest disappointments and the most pleasant surprises were completely unanticipated.

While there were a number of excellent wines, many were mediocre at best; several should not have been offered for tasting and in one case, should never have made it into bottle. In another case, an obviously cork tainted wine was poured for me. I was able to identify the TCA and request another pour from a different bottle, but what of the fifteen or twenty people who were served the corked wine? This is a marketing director’s nightmare – the average wine consumer will not understand that the closure was the source of the problem rather than the wine. Simple diligence would have identified the issue before it became a problem.

While there were friendly, courteous and knowledgeable winery people, several knew little about the wines they were presenting and could not answer the most basic of questions.
A number of the labels were clearly “hobby” wineries – weekend type operations that were obviously not the primary livelihood for the proprietors. While that, by itself, does not represent a problem, several do not seem to treat their operation as a business – a surprising number could not produce a simple business card when requested.

But most importantly, for the region as well as for the individual operations, several do not understand that when you are involved in the wine industry, you are also involved in the hospitality industry. Small wineries can be far more successful when they develop a personal relationship with their patrons. A simple smile and some pleasant conversation may be all it takes to create a favorable impression and a long term customer.

Nevertheless, I heartily recommend you visit the Santa Cruz Mountains for a unique wine experience. For those tired of crowded roads and packed tasting rooms, weary of Pinot Noir disguised as Syrah and Zinfandel masquerading as Port, the region will offer you a refreshing change of pace and distinctive wines.

Many thanks to the Santa Cruz Mountains Winegrowers Association and especially to Shannon Flynn for providing me access to this event. I was fortunate to make a number of new friends and taste some very, very fine wine.

Reporting from the Alluvial Plains, where all the vines are strong, all the vineyards are manicured and all the wines are above average…

califusa


Prologue ~~ Day 1 ~~ Day 2 ~~ Day 3 ~~ Day 4

August 2009 © Allan Bree

  
|

BACK TO THE TOP

 

Home Link to Gang of Pour Home Page