5 New Reds from Ricasoli
by Bastardo

We quite enjoyed the wines from Barone Ricasoli that we tasted last year, and so we were enthused to again receive their latest releases. The Formulae and 1141 were tasted side by side, as were the Rocca Guicciarda and Brolio CC. The Castello di Brolio was savored all by its beautiful self.

2000 Ricasoli Formulae, 100% Sangiovese, $9.99, 13.5% alc.: This dark garnet was treated to a soft pressing and 13 days of controlled temperature maceration; it then saw 9 months in 30% American oak and 70% stainless steel vats, followed by 2 months of bottle aging, but there is no oakiness to speak of. The nose is slightly hot, and flavors and aromas feature somewhat stemmy dried bitter cherry, black cherry, licorice, earth and tar characteristics. It starts off well enough upon entry, but then loses intensity on the mid-palate and the finish; tannins are moderate and the acidity is good. A pleasant enough wine with food, but that’s about it.

2000 Ricasoli 1141 Chianti Classico, 90% Sangiovese, 10% Canaiolo, $13.99, 13% alc.: After soft pressing, 8-10 days of controled temp maceration and 9 months in stainless steel vats, this ruby dark garnet received another month in bottle before release. The spicy licorice, black cherry and black raspberry aromas echo a little less brightly in the flavors; it’s dry, not too tannic, with plenty of acidity, and doesn’t finish all that long. While pleasant and more substantial than the Formulae, it's still unexceptional, and another one that needs food.

1998 Ricasoli Rocca Guicciarda Chianti Classico Riserva, 100% Sangiovese, $18.99, 13.12% alc.: The stat sheet says this dark garnet was macerated on the skins for 16 days after soft pressing, then aged in "barriques and barrels for 20 months," followed by 3 months in the bottle. It starts out a little poopy on the nose, but this element dissipates quickly with dark chocolate, dried black cherry and a little tar and sea air coming to the fore. These follow through on the palate, with the tar dominating initially, before receding to take a more balanced place in the greater whole of the flavor profile. It’s not so tannic that you can’t enjoy it now, there’s good acidity without being excessive, and it finishes nicely. It has a smooth, almost velvety mouthfeel that compliments the rich, tasty fruit, and it doesn’t need food to satisfy. As good as it is now, it should be even better 5-8 years or so down the road.  Very nice.

1999 Brolio Chianti Classico, 100% Sangiovese, $15.99, 13.66% alc.: 12 months in French barriques shows in this ruby garnet, as the black cherry, black raspberry bouquet features a kiss of oak that gives it an "International" character, relegating the more "typically Italian" licorice and balsamico to the background. These follow through in the dry flavors, with moderate tannins and a smooth mouthfeel that creates the impression that it has less acidity than is actually present. Subtle notes of sea air, cream and coconut come out on the nose with air, while a tarry element regains some of the regional accent; it has a nice finish, with the accent on the tar and some not unpleasant stemminess. A very nice wine, this should only improve over at least the next 5 years.

1998 Castello di Brolio Chianti Classico, 95% Hand Harvested Sangiovese, 5% Cabernet Sauvignon, $39.99, 13.66% alc.: We loved the ’97 version, and this one is a most worthy successor. It spent 18 months in French oak (65% of which was new), followed by 8 months in bottle. It sports an almost inky purple dark garnet robe, and Kim commented that "it smells like an aquarium." (To borrow a phrase from califusa, she meant that in the kindest way, folks.) Flavors and aromas are all about judicious oak over black cherry, plum and cassis, with a smooth, almost velvety mouthfeel, substantial tannins and good acidity. It almost seems more like Bordeaux than a Tuscan, or maybe a Mondavi Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon, as the oak gives it something of a Napa-like quality, and again, this is meant as a compliment, not a knock. It would finish longer, but for the tannic clamp, but despite that, it’s already delicious. A 10 year wine no sweat, and a fine, fine flagship wine for this producer. Bravo!

Barone Ricasoli Wines Imported by William Grant & Sons, Inc., Edison, NJ

Copyright © 2002 George Heritier

2000 Ricasoli Formulae

2000 Ricasoli 1141 Chianti Classico

1998 Ricasoli Rocca Guicciarda Chianti Classico Riserva

1999 Brolio Chianti Classico

1998 Castello di Brolio Chianti Classico

Part I

1997 Vallone Salice Salentino

1997 Vallone "Vigna Flaminio" Brindisi Rosso Riserva

1997 D’Angelo Aglianico del Vulture

1995 D’Angelo "Vigna Caselle" Aglianico del Vulture Riserva

1997 D’Angelo Canneto IGT Basilicata