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Crozes
Hermitage March 2000
We’ve rattled on at length about the southern Rhones we enjoy whilst watching our beloved Red Wings, but that’s not to say we don’t drink the Syrahs from up north. Au contraire, we especially love the wines of Crozes Hermitage here at Gang Central; they usually cost less than half what you pay for their more pedigreed cousins just to the south or across the river, and the quality is very high from the best producers. And when we think of Crozes Hermitage, we think mainly of two producers, based on what’s available to us, whether locally or through operatives strategically located around the country. Paul Jaboulet Aine We tasted our first Domaine du Thalabert during the summer of ’95, when our friends Walter and Beth opened a ’78 for us. It was a real treat, having held up very well over its 17 years, and we’ve been fans ever since. The wine takes its name from one of the properties where it is produced, a monopole of Domaines Jaboulet a little south of Tain l'Hermitage, on a stony plain of alluvial deposits. Over the past several weeks, we’ve surveyed the last four models, comparing them with similar wines from the same vintages, just for the fun of it. 1994 Paul Jaboulet Aine Crozes Hermitage Domaine de Thalabert $19, 13% alc. 1994 Paul Jaboulet Aine Saint Joseph "Le Grand Pompee" $19, 12.9% alc.
We first tried these two in the fall of ’96, so we’ve had a chance to
follow their evolution, and it’s been a fascinating (and instructive)
experience. Both are still a rich, deep dark garnet color, showing nary a
hint of rust or brick. Back then, the Dom. De Thalabert
showed a beautiful
bouquet that has gradually lost some of its ebullient floral qualities.
Still, it has a pretty smoky plum/prune/thyme aroma that echoes most
deliciously in the flavors, where added notes of chocolate and black
raspberry come out with extended air. (We gave these a couple of hours in a
decanter before pouring some in our glasses; they needed as much as four
hours in their younger days.) There were none of the leather and barnyard
that was exhibited in the past, and the herbal quality that dominated last
year was much more Our first taste of the "Le Grand Pompee" was not a particularly memorable one, since it was so tight and impenetrable at that time. It had gotten good numbers from the Wine Spectator, as had the ’94 Jaboulet Crozes Hermitage "Les Jalets," but both were unapproachable then, even after nine hours of air. I ran into a stash of the Saint Joseph last winter, and decided to try one to see if it ever came around, and was pleasantly surprised that it had indeed. The most recent tasting confirms that this continues to develop into a fine northern Rhone Syrah. It’s deeper and darker than the Crozes, with a plum/black currant/thyme/ olive/chocolate nose, taking on an added note of underbrush on the palate that, again, doesn’t dominate like it did last year. There is a somewhat creamy quality to the mouthfeel, and while the tannins and acidity are softening to the point where it’s very enjoyable now, it has some astringency yet on the finish. It was something of a revelation to see how this has evolved, and we look forward to watching it continue to develop over the next five years or so. After comparing back and forth, Kim and I agreed that we both preferred the Dom. De Thalabert, for its more graceful, floral qualities, but both are lovely wines, and there’s still a stash of the "Le Grand Pompee" left that I intend to continue to mine to its depletion. On to Part Two... More Crozes 1995, 1996, 1997 On to Part Three... Alain Graillot’s Crozes Hermitage and a Couple from Cornas
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As the Crozes Flies in WINES 1994 Paul Jaboulet Aine 1994 Paul Jaboulet Aine 1995 Paul Jaboulet Aine 1995 Paul Jaboulet Aine 1996 Paul Jaboulet Aine 1996 M. Chapoutier 1997 Paul Jaboulet Aine 1997 Albert Belle 1997 Paul Jaboulet Aine 1995 Bernard Chave 1996 Alain Graillot 1995 Alain Graillot 1996 Alain Graillot
1995 Marcel Juge
1995 Domaine de
A Chat with J.C. Mathes of J et R Selections More Red Wings Red Wings & Red Rhones '02-'03
Playoff Diary '02 A Dandy Rhône and a Night at the Joe
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balanced and in check. And while the tannins and acidity
are mellower than they were previously, it can easily go at least another
five years in the cellar. It finishes reasonably long and a little earthy,
and was a fine accompaniment to Kim’s great beef stew. Once again, I was
reminded why this has become a perennial favorite here at Gang Central.
