Mr. Kerr had contacted his friend at the winery, Laura
McNab, and asked her to taste some of the current releases with us.
Laura, who is like that great friend you’ve just met for the first time, did a
splendid job and we quite liked what we tried.
Tawse Tasting Room Line-Up
2007 Tawse Pinot Noir, 13% alc., $32.00 Can.: Ruby red, with a pretty
cranberry and red currant perfume; flavors echo on a very smooth, medium bodied,
deceptively well structured frame. Notes of tobacco and smoke emerge with a
little air. Find this wine
2006 Tawse Meritage, 50% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% Merlot, 20% Cabernet
Franc, $48.00 Can.: Deeply colored, with toasty oak over deep, dark black
currant and blackberry flavors and aromas; full bodied, sleek and well
structured for several years of development. Find this wine
2006 Tawse David's Block Merlot, 13% alc., $45.00 Can.: Clean dark color,
with moderate toast over blackberries, currants and a little cooked tomato;
chewy, with good depth and structure, this can also age for several years. Find this wine
2004 Tawse Robyn's Block Estate Chardonnay, 13.7% alc., $42.00 Can.:
Clean rich color, with apple, meringue and butterscotch flavors and aromas;
medium full bodied and smooth, with good acids and length. Spent 24 months in
oak, and while that can sometimes spell doom for Chardonnay, in this case, the
wine is quite tasty.
Find this wine
2007 Tawse Cabernet Sauvignon Ice Wine, 200 ml, 10.8% alc., $35.00 Can.: Shows
a pretty light ruby color; one is immediately struck by the sharp acidity of the
wine, which should carry it several years down the road. Flavors and aromas of
sweet rhubarb, strawberry and hints of dark chocolate and old cheddar. Rich,
ripe and very long on the finish. Too bad we don’t get more Ontario Ice Wines of
this quality here in the US. Find this wine
Alan also suggested that we stop in at
Flat Rock Cellars if the
weather was clear for an even better view of the lake and for the Pinot Noirs as
well, so we did and he wasn’t wrong. Unfortunately, they were only pouring one
on this day, but it was good. Interestingly, this producer uses only Stelvin®
screwcaps.
2007 Flat Rock Estate Pinot Noir, 12.5% alc., $20.15.00 Can.: Smoky black
cherry and plum, with undertones of rhubarb; smooth, dry and middleweight, with
deceptive structure. A very good value for the price. Find this wine
2007 Flat Rock “Unplugged” Chardonnay Twenty Mile Bench (Unoaked), 12.5%
alc., $ N/A: Clean lime tinged straw color, with straightforward apple and pear
flavors and aromas underscored with a little sweet pea; ripe, but not too ripe,
with good depth, balance and varietal character. So why don’t I like it that much?
Maybe for the same reason I don’t like many unoaked Chardonnays from New Zealand
and Australia... Find this wine
From Flat Rock, it was on to Chez Kerr and evening #1 of serious food and wine.
The plan was to spend Thursday with Alan, then drive to Marty and Robin’s on
Friday, and return the Kerr’s for our final evening on Saturday. We got things
started with a sweet white, as the Euro-trash do.
1996 Moulin Touchais Anjou, 13.5%: Pale golden color, with a sweet
apricot nose that gains white peach and a little mineral in the mouth. Somewhat
unctuous, oily, fairly intense and long on the finish. Quite delicious with some
Thunder Bay gouda-styled cheese. Find this wine
Alan had about 2/3 bottle of the following wine vacu-vined from two days earlier
on the shelf, so we had glasses while decanting the three dinner wines.
2005 Terra Noble Colchagua Cabernet Sauvignon Grand Reserva, 14% alc.:
Clean dark garnet color, with subtle toast and coffee over black currant and
black berry; very smooth and claret-like and not at all overdone like too many
from Chile. Very nice. Find this wine
The next two wines paired brilliantly with Chef Kerr’s red wine braised short
ribs, caramelized onion and roasted root veggies.
1999 Ridge Dry Creek Valley Syrah Lytton Estate ATP, 92% Syrah, 7%
Grenache, 1% Viognier, 14.8% alc.: Deep, dark color, with pretty Draper perfume
over deep black fruit on the nose; very smooth in the mouth, yet quite dense at
the same time, with flavors of lavender, violet, black plum and blackberry. The
American oak still isn’t completely integrated, but neither is it at all
intrusive. Rich and delicious, with the structure to age for another 5-10 years
easily (Kerr says 20, and he may be right). Alan remarked that this is still
“unbelievably spicy and youthful.”
Find this wine
2000 Ridge Dry Creek Valley Syrah Lytton Estate ATP, 99% Syrah, 1%
Viognier, 14.4% alc.: Clean dark color, but not giving much on the nose;
similar in flavor profile to the ’99, with
lavender, violet and black plum along with shades of tar and coffee, being
more accessible, if a little less complex. Alan adds an impression of
black pepper, observing that it’s “obviously from a tighter year, with less oak
than the ’99, but the structure is still there. The 2000 has fruit, the ’99 has
fruit and then some!” Indeed, it is more fruit driven than the previous vintage,
and has the tannin-acid backbone for at least another five years in the cellar.
Find this wine
Mr. Kerr threw the next selection in the mix to see how it compared with the
older models, and it performed admirably.
2003 Ridge Dry Creek Valley Syrah Lytton
West, 91% Syrah, 9%
Viognier, 14.8% alc.: Inky color, nearly opaque, and obviously the youngest wine
of the three in every way; just a trace of Draper perfume over deep, dark black
fruit on the nose. Big black plum and blackberry on the palate, shaded with
subtle lavender, a hint of violet and some American oak. Not as smooth as the
first two, but full bodied, with big structure and solid depth, and while quite
approachable, I’d wait on this for some years, perhaps as much as 10 years or
longer. Find this wine
As an afterthought, Alan decided that we should compare one of
Mike Officer’s Syrahs with the
Mr. Ridge trio, so he went down to his cellar and returned with the following
wine.
2003 Carlisle Russian River
Valley Syrah, 15.5% alc.: Looks like a glass of ink
and shows substantial oak over deep dark black plum and blackberry on the nose;
flavors echo with a balsa-like undertone, and Kerr adds impressions of “very
peppery, very spicy, and a little eucalyptus.” Kim mentions a vacancy on the
mid-palate, and it does have a certain flat quality – perhaps it’s in an
in-between period? Not over-the-top and not over-ripe; dry, but rich and
structured for at least five more years of development. Not as impressive as the
Ridges, but a solid Syrah in its own right with its best days ahead of it. Find this wine
On Friday, we all piled into the car and motored over to Marty and Robin’s for
what was sure to be a delightfully festive evening. The stars of the night would
be 1996 and 1997 vintages of Ravenswood Big River, Belloni and Monte Rosso
Zinfandels, which would be paired with Marty’s strange and exotic roasted
velk (a crossbreed of deer/venison and elk) with roasted fingerling potatoes and
shallots. We got things started with a Torchon of Foie Gras and a nice
Australian white followed by one from Ontario’s Prince Edward County.
2002 Hensche Barossa Tilly’s Garden, 13.5% alc.: As unlikely as it might
seem, this blend of Semillon, Sauvignon Blanc and Chardonnay not only works,
it’s quite tasty. Pretty pale gold in color, with a steely sweet pea and green
bean nose that follows through expressively on the palate with a note of lime
zest. Rich and smooth, with good acids, this is holding up quite nicely and
shows no sign of fading any time soon.
Find this wine
2007 Norman Hardie Prince Edward County Pinot Gris, 12% alc.: Pale to
medium straw color, with steely under-ripe green apple, quince and a hint of
lime in flavor and aroma; good presence and just enough acidity to keep it
moving along. Find this wine
A delicious lobster and pea risotto was enjoyed with the previously noted 2007
Tawse Pinot Noir that we had picked up the day before, and then it was on the
main course and the Ravenswoods.
1996 Ravenswood Russian River Valley Zinfandel Wood Road Belloni, 14.9%
alc.: Deep dark color, with a spicy black raspberry nose that follows through
beautifully on the palate; Kerr called it “very forest-y.” Still a big wine,
well structured and rich, with many years ahead of it. Classic old school
Zinfandel that walks that perfect line between ripe and earthy and to my tastes,
an almost perfect wine. A blend sourced from four vineyards. Find this wine
1997 Ravenswood Russian River Valley Zinfandel Belloni, 14.7% alc: Inky
in color, with big black raspberry, raisin, old wood and some slate and mineral
on the nose, with flavors that echo loudly; Alan notes an almost jerky-like
quality. Riper than the ’96; in fact, almost over-ripe and Amarone-like, but not
as big in body. Has the structure to age for several more years, but perhaps a
little too ripe for Alan. Find this wine
1996 Ravenswood Alexander Valley Zinfandel Big River, 14.9% alc.:
Slightly rusty dark garnet color with balanced blackberry and black raspberry
flavors and aromas, with some subtle earth underneath; Alan mentioned traces of
smoked meat and dark chocolate. Kim added impressions of “no nose” and “very
perfumed in the mouth.” Very claret-like, and if it’s not quite up to the
Bellonis, it’s very nice on its own terms. Find this wine
1997 Ravenswood Alexander Valley Zinfandel Big River, 14.9% alc.: Almost
looks like a glass of ink, and a little riper than the ’96 with spicy black
raspberry and blackberry; good balance and claret-like in character, and like
the ’96, not quite as impressive as the Bellonis, but nice on its own terms. Find this wine
1996 Ravenswood Sonoma Zinfandel Monte Rosso, 15% alc.: Clean dark garnet
color, and claret-like, with rich, sweet black raspberry flavors and aromas that
gain a subtle note of lavender with air. Riper than the ‘97 Monte Rosso, and
perhaps in its optimum drinking window; it can go several more years with its
solid structure, but I’m not sure there’s a good reason to wait. Delicious! Find this wine
1997 Ravenswood Sonoma Zinfandel Monte Rosso, 15.5% alc.: Another glass
of ink here with an earthy, tarry nose that carries over onto the palate with a
rich yet dry core of spicy blackberry and black raspberry fruit. Marty likened
the earthiness to Domaine de la Vougeraie red Burgundies, and this is a
beautiful Zinfandel with the depth and structure for several more years of aging
and development. Find this wine
These are all lovely wines, and provide classic examples of what great Zinfandel
can and should be. Many thanks to Alan and Marty for liberating them from their
respective cellars, as it was an immense pleasure to taste through them all.
As a follow-up to the our Ravenswood tasting, Alan Kerr sent the following
information:
A
couple of days prior to tasting the vertical of 96 and 97 Ravenswood Zinfandels,
I had the opportunity to partake in a tasting of three single vineyard wines
from the 2006 vintage poured by none other than the winemaker Joel Peterson
(far left with Kerr). The wines showed great depth and
character and all have the ability to age well.
Ravenswood Zinfandel Dickerson 2006:There are so many aromas on the nose.
It starts by delivering black cherry, dark sweet chocolate, dried mint and
fleshy plum. The fruit is backed up with aromas of new leather and cedar. There
are tannins, but they do not interfere with the present enjoyment. It will
improve, but in a partnership with rare grilled meat, it would be superb to
drink right now. Find this wine
Ravenswood Zinfandel Teldeschi Dry Creek Valley 2006: The depth of ninety
year old vines is evident by the intensity of colour. It has a powerful nose of
blackberry and dark fruits along with layers of sweet and Asian spices and a
note of vanilla. The tannins are at a medium level, a little tight, but show no
astringency whatsoever. The acids are lively and refreshing. The balance of the
wine is prefect. Its finish is fruit laden and long. Made primarily from
Zinfandel with a touch of Petit Sirah and Carignane. Find this wine
Ravenswood Zinfandel Barricia 2006: Clearly the tightest of the three
wines, the Barricia is full of dark berry fruit, firm tannins, oak and layers of
spice. It carries a thick creamy texture, good balance and a long finish. It is
a wine for those with the patience to allow it to evolve. Made primarily from
Zinfandel with a touch of Petit Sirah.
Find this wine
Saturday morning found us leisurely drinking coffee and noshing on bagels, cream
cheese, smoked salmon and capers. Finally, our intrepid troupe bid our adieus to
Marty and Robin and returned to the House of Kerr, where we played 27 holes of
Wii golf before breaking into the wine. We started off with two roses; our
Angels Gate was uncorked first.
2006 Angels Gate Ontario Rosé, 49% Pinot Noir, 30% Cabernet Franc, 21%
Merlot, 13% alc., $9.65 Can: Salmon pink in color, with an attractive mélange of
strawberry, raspberry, cherry and watermelon flavors and aromas. Medium bodied,
with good acids and depth; rich, round and a pleasure to drink, especially with
Chef Kerr’s Thai lobster soup with shitake. Made with the saignée method. Find this wine
Alan had another rosé he wanted to put up against the Angels Gate, and it held
its own quite well.
2007 Ravine Vineyard Niagara Peninsula Cabernet Franc Rosé, 13% alc.:
Strawberry pink, with a decidedly creamy quality to the strawberry, raspberry
and cherry flavors and aromas; smooth, rich and tasty, with good depth and
acids. The creaminess might indicate that this saw some oak, but it’s not at all
excessive. Find this wine
Finally, we got to the two wines that brought us here in the first place, and
they are indeed very fine examples of Mr. Ridge at its best. We started with the
Bordeaux blend, which paired beautifully with Alan’s grilled leg of lamb,
arugula, grilled tomatoes and Portobello mushrooms.
2006 Ridge Santa Cruz Mountains Estate, 56% Cabernet Sauvignon, 42%
Merlot, 2% Petite Verdot, 13.7% alc.: Deep dark color, almost opaque; black
currant, cassis and tobacco shaded with some pretty cream and violet on the
nose; plenty more of the same on the palate, with a dose of creamy oak, and yes,
there’s some “Draper perfume” here. Smooth, full-bodied and solidly structured,
this is already drinking well with some air and food, but can go several years
in the cellar. A 10-year wine and more, and that should give the oak plenty of
time to integrate. Very nice indeed! Find this wine
2007 Ridge Sonoma Geyserville, 58% Zinfandel, 22% Carignane, 18% Petite
Sirah, 2% Mataro, 14.4% alc.: Deep dark color, and throwing a lovely Draper
perfume of sweet oak, lavender, violet, black raspberry and blueberry, all of
which echoes and expands beautifully on the palate. Very smooth and ripe (but
not over-ripe), and deceptively well structured for several years in the cellar,
but really tasty right now. A beautiful Geyserville, this! Find this wine
Many thanks to Christina Donley, not only
for her generosity, but also for setting us on the road to a brilliant weekend
of wine, food and friendship!
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Reporting from Day-twah,
geo t.