2001
Palandri
Western Australia Shiraz, $10.99, 13.5% alc.: The vendor who brought
this sturdy little number to my attention was quite frank about the
pricing; it’s normally a $15-16 wine, but needs to move to make way for
a newer vintage. While that might indicate an inferior wine, such is not
the case here, as it has some real depth and maturity, and offers
excellent value for relatively few dollars. Dark garnet in color, with
dark plums and berries on the nose, shaded with subtle earth, tar and a
wee hint of chocolate; flavors echo more or less, with notes of leather
and root beer cola morphing out of the chocolate. With medium to medium
full body, good structure and length, this is no gobby Oz fruit and
oak bomb, but rather a balanced Shiraz that shows traits as much
reminiscent of its brethren from southern France as from Australia, and
in that regard, begs for something lamb-like on the grill, whether it be
a leg impregnated with garlic and rosemary or just some medium rare lamb
burgers, which, if you’ve never had them, are really good!
Find this wine
Imported by Marie Brizard USA, Bardstown, KY
~~~~~~
2004 Vina Antigua
Sangiovese – Bonarda Maipu, $5.49, 12.4% alc.: It seems like I’m
tasting another new batch of wines from Argentina every other week, and
many of them are pretty good. This dark garnet colored blend and the
following selection are good examples, and both are brought into the
country by QPR import specialist Dan Kravitz, of Hand Picked Selections,
who describes this producer thusly: “Viña Maipu is a profoundly
old-fashioned Argentine Bodega updating at a rapid pace. Carlos Aranda
Garcia’s winery is in Santa Blanca, 20 miles east of Mendoza, dusty
country far from the multinational modernity nearer the city. The winery
building is old but well equipped and well maintained. Several hundred
acres of vineyards stretch around it - mostly Sangiovese and Bonarda for
the entry level red, Viña Antigua - as close as we get to ‘Two Buck
Chuck’. Further west and higher up are several hundred more acres of
Cabernet, Malbec, Barbera and Chardonnay giving wines of nice quality at
lower than reasonable prices.”
A no frills, bone dry, medium full to full bodied 50-50 blend of Sangiovese and Bonarda (a
seemingly odd marriage of THE Tuscan red grape and a not-quite-obscure
varietal from Piedmont that is actually the most widely planted red in
Argentina), it features flavors and aromas reminiscent of black currant
and blackberry shaded with notes of black olive and iodine. It has some
structure to it, along with good concentration, giving more pleasure
than one has any right to expect for five and a half bucks, and it’s a
perfect match for Argentina’s national food, beef.
Find this wine
2003 Vina Maipu Malbec, $7.49, 13.2% alc.: Bonarda may be the
most widely planted red in Argentina, but perhaps no varietal is more
widely associated with that country than Malbec, and this medium full
bodied ruby garnet pays testimony to the fact that even the inexpensive
ones can be quite tasty. Showing a judicious kiss of oak over black
currant, blackberry and a hint of mahogany, it has good structure and
length, is eminently drinkable right now, and, yes, it was made for
beef. I can’t think of any red wines from anywhere in the world that we
have access to hereabouts that show the kind of quality that both this
and the Vina Antigua do for such modest prices. Find this wine
Imported
by Hand Picked Selections, Warrenton, PA
~~~~~~
The wines of Mendocino County producer
Girasole
(pronounced Jeer-a-so-Lay), are not only organic, they’re Vegan, even
the reds, with no egg-whites used in fining and sulfites under 100 parts
per million. But their more universal selling point is that they’re
tasty and they offer good value for the price tags.
2004 Girasole Mendocino Pinot Blanc, $11.99,
13.2% alc.: Pale straw color, with stingy aromatics; more generous
in the mouth, with apple, melon and a little mineral on the finish.
Nice fruit, but not really "fruit forward," with good cut and decent
length, making a good match with a Michigan cherry salad and some
chicken or seafood, served just about any way you like it.
Find this wine
2004 Girasole Mendocino Chardonnay, $11.99,
13.5% alc.: This pale to medium straw colored Chardonnay saw
stainless steel, rather than oak fermentation, and it shows in the clean
apple, pear and hint o’ mineral personality; it has enough acidity to
work, a decent finish and good varietal character. Pleasant and well
made, from 45-year-old Wente clone vines.
Find this wine
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2005 Girasole Mendocino Pinot Noir, $13.99,
13.5% alc.: Ruby garnet in color, with nice spice over rich, smoky
black cherry and plum flavors and aromas; good, cut, medium
concentration, decent length, and very good value, easily the best of
the four from this producer tasted on this occasion, which is probably
why it’s also their best selling wine. Produced from 45 year old vines.
Find this wine
2004 Girasole Mendocino Sangiovese, $11.99,
13.9% alc.: Dark garnet color, with nice, slightly candied red plums
and berries over a subtle earthy base; decent structure and finish;
pleasant and enjoyable.
Find this wine
~~~~~~
A few weeks ago, I had the opportunity to taste
through five wines from yet another producer from Argentina,
Valentin
Bianchi. To say that Bianchi’s Elsa line, named in honor of Valentin’s
wife, is value oriented is something of an understatement, since these
wines all over-deliver with regard to QPR (quality price ratio), and are
all good buys in the under $10 price range.
2005 Elsa Bianchi Chardonnay Semillon, 60% Chardonnay, 40% Semillon,
$8.99, 13.6% alc.: Pale straw in color, with flavors and aromas
reminiscent of peach and lemon; fruit forward without being sweet,
having just enough acidity to work well with or without food and nice
length on the finish. A good choice for an inexpensive white quaffer.
Crushed and fermented at controlled temperatures in stainless steel
tanks, inoculated with selected yeasts and aged six months in oak.
Find this wine
2004 Elsa Bianchi Barbera, $8.99, 13.7% alc.:
The color of India ink, with a kiss of sweet oak and a hint of dog
fur over ripe black fruit on the nose; the deep, dark earthy flavors
echo with good structure and a note of bittersweet chocolate as it
opens. My notes read “a heck of a lot of wine for the money,” and
that’s no lie. Find this wine
2005 Elsa Bianchi Malbec, $8.99, 14.8% alc.: Deep dark garnet in
color, with musky, perfumed aromatics of red and black fruit that follow
through on the palate with a solid earthy core and a subtle undertone of
chocolate. This shows good structure and length, and like the rest of
these, offers excellent QPR. Find this wine
2004 Elsa Bianchi Cabernet
Sauvignon, $8.99, 14.2% alc.: Another
deep, dark garnet colored wine that really delivers on the quality, with
straightforward Cabernet character that features rich cassis and black
currant flavors and aromas anchored with a typically earthy core. Like
the other Bianchi reds, it shows good structure and length, and is very
nice for the price.
Find this wine
2004 Elsa Bianchi Syrah, $8.99, 14.5% alc.: Dark garnet color,
with ripe, smoky dark plum and black cherry flavors and aromas that are
spruced up with a judicious kiss of oak; very well structured, with good
density, concentration and length, and once again, there's an earthiness
to it that gives the wine a sense of character and place. Has the
stuffing to age and improve for a few years.
Find this wine
The reds all see the same general process, with the grapes being
hand-harvested and sorted twice; prior to maceration, 10%-20% of the
juice is bled off (saignee) the skins to increase the skin to juice
ratio. Following crushing and fermentation, the wine sees minimal oak
aging (French and American), followed by another month of bottle aging.
Imported by Quintessential LLC, Napa, CA
In the meantime, don’t forget Rule # 1 of
Bastardo’s
Rules of Wine Acquisition:
ALWAYS buy by the case!
};^)>
Reporting from Day-twah,
Bastardo
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Other Recent Wine Explorations
Not Just Flotsam & Jetsam
Bastardo's Best Buys
(Or Wines That Don't Suck)
More Wines With Friends
Wines of
Domaine Berthet-Rayne
Wine With
Friends
Warm Weather
Whites 2006
Home Alone
in Day-Twah
Back to September '06 Index
Back to the Underground
Index
Back to the Top
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© George Heritier September, 2006
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