2000 Marc Morey Chassagne – Montrachet, 13.5% alc.: This medium straw throws an effusive bouquet of spicy pear, tropical fruit, vanilla crème, anise and mineral, all adorned with obvious oak, and very nicely so; Mr. Blackwood described it as a "musky nose." The thick rich flavors echo loudly, with good acidity and more mineral on the finish. This was a big hit, being the first white drained, and I’ll try another in three to five years to see how it’s developing.

1998 Zind Humbrecht Hunawihr Gewurztraminer Clos Windsbuhl, 15% alc.: Pale to medium gold, this boasts a big beautiful spicy honeyed peachy litchi bouquet accented with toasty hints. These follow through on the palate with a thick, oily viscosity, excellent acidity and a long finish. Pam Gilliken, who brought this, found it a little too sweet for her tastes, but I liked it just fine.

1995 M. Chapoutier Hermitage Blanc Chante – Alouette, 13.8% alc.: Larry called this medium gold "an oily beast," and while it was poured too cold, it warmed and improved dramatically in the glass to show flavors and aromas of mineral, bees wax, a little caramel, and something like a hint of varnish on the nose. It has fairly low acidity, a nice long finish and a certain herbal quality about it. Andy Keilor said that "it reminds me of scotch, without all the alcohol." This and the following two wines provided a fascinating contrast in styles and varietals with the previous two selections.

1996 J.L. Chave Hermitage Blanc, 13% alc.: The earthy bees wax and mineral character of this pale to medium gold isn’t as overt as in the Chante – Alouette, but I like it even better; subtle notes of maple sugar emerge with air. Kim described it as "unctuous - oily." It’s hard to describe a particular fruit in the flavors and aromas here, but the wine is undeniably marvelous. (Bob Graeter (left) sporting his spiffy 
got chave? cap.)

1990 M. Chapoutier Hermitage Chante – Alouette, 14% alc.: This full bodied pale to medium gold exhibits lots of nutty bees wax and wet stones flavors and aromas, and there’s a certain chalky quality to it as well. Low acid and quite lovely, it completed a terrific trio of delicious white Hermitage.

1997 Clos de la Coulée de Serrant Savennières, 14% alc.: I was excited to see one of Nicolas Joly’s efforts, as previous examples I've tasted have been most impressive, but this one lacks complexity and needs some time, five years or more. It shows the alcohol on the nose, almost smelling like a fortified wine, and indeed, Mark H. opined that "it could be 15%; that is typically the highest alcohol wine made in the Loire."  Right now it’s showing rich, intense apple and pear, with hints of apricot, but still, this isn’t even close to optimum drinking at this point.

1996 Duval – Leroy Blanc de Chardonnay Champagne Brut, 12% alc.: Larry immediately commented on a note of peppermint in this medium straw bubbly, but the first thing I noticed on the nose was a note of anise. It features a fine, active bead, zippy acidity and a long finish, with rich, full flavors of yeasty apple, pear and again, some of that anise. Larry was quite right when he characterized this as "a good palate cleaner."

2002 Domaine Tempier Bandol Rosé, 11 – 14% alc.: This pale salmon colored rosé served as a prelude to the Bandol reds (although I found it necessary to taste through a number of Spanish and Rhône reds first, to insure that I got a taste of them at all). And while seemingly out of its league coming on the heels of the big whites, it actually holds it own with flavors and aromas of strawberry, watermelon, mineral and a hint of detergent. There’s good acidity, and a nice finish, making for an excellent summer afternoon sipper, picnic wine or aperitif. Terribly overpriced in the Detroit market, at around $30, but much better for $20 in Nashville. (Thanks again, Blackie!)

1986 A. Fernandez Tinto Pesquera Ribera del Duero, 12.5% alc.: As soon as Alan Kerr uncorked this and the following selection, they received lots of attention, so I did my getting while the getting was good. This dark garnet is showing no rust to speak of, with lovely, stylish flavors and aromas of cedar, black cherry and plum. Tannins are soft, acidity is good and the finish is quite nice.

1989 A. Fernandez Tinto Pesquera Ribera del Duero, 13% alc.: This dark garnet is essentially a deeper, darker version of the ’86, with a little more concentration and an added note of mahogany. Very nice indeed.

1994 A. Fernandez Janus Ribera del Duero, 13% alc.: This inky garnet provided a nice addition to the Pesqueras, even if it’s really too young at this point. It’s showing black currant, black cherry, saddle leather and cedar box, with subtle notes of meat and mahogany. Another three to five years won’t hurt this one at all, so be patient.

1995 Domaine du Vieux Télégraphe ® Châteauneuf du Pape "La Crau," 14% alc.: Another one that was disappearing quickly, this dark garnet gives up deep, dark earthy, smoky black fruit aromatics with leathery notes in support, and the big, rich flavors echo loudly and deliciously. Still significant tannins here, and yet so nice to drink already.

1998 Château La Nerthe Châteauneuf du Pape, 14% alc.: One good Châteauneuf du Pape deserves another, I always say, and this dark garnet fits that bill very nicely indeed. Intense and concentrated, yet more "polite" than the Vieux Télégraphe, this shows a little less smoke than that wine, along with slightly vegetal (in a good way) plum, prune, spice and garrigue flavors and aromas. There’s a nice earthy quality about this, and I wouldn’t disagree with Larry, who described it as "lush."

1986 J.L. Chave Hermitage, 14% alc.: And the hits just kept coming, as this slightly rusty dark garnet was surely one of the Wines of the Night; it shows coffee and toast on the nose right away, and big lovely meaty, smoky black fruit comes to the fore in the flavors. There are still some tannins to lose, but the wine is so fine already, it’s hard to keep hands off. It’s just a good thing that two of these showed up, because the first one opened was corked.

2000 Thierry Allemand Cornas Sans Soufree, 13.5% alc.: This could almost pass for ink, it’s so dark in color, and the fruit is just as dark and dense, with huge aromatics and flavors showing considerable bacon and garrigue. Although remarkably approachable now, give this another ten years to really begin to sing.

1987 Domaine Tempier Bandol, 100% Mourvedre, 11 – 14% alc.: Finally, the Bandols! This slightly cloudy dark garnet is showing some rust in its color, and big black currant and black plum character shaded with forest floor. I found none of the funkiness that was apparently noticed when this was first poured; it’s not too tannic, but does show a good bit of acidity. Mark H. described this as "pond scum," adding that it needs food. Overshadowed by several of the previous selections, it’s not Chateauneuf du Pape, but it’s not bad…

1993 Domaine Tempier Bandol La Tortine: Corked. Bummer.

1993 Domaine Tempier Bandol La Migoua, 11 – 14% alc.: Kim called this deep, dark garnet a "Mr. McGoo Bandol," perhaps because it’s still somewhat monolithic and one dimensional, with its big black leathery fruit. It’s not too tannic, but it is deep, dark and intense. Food wine, to be sure, and a fine match for "Little Lulu’s" cuisine.

1993 La Bastide Blanche Bandol Longue Garde, 13% alc.: Kerr remarked that he "wasn’t overly struck" with this somewhat rusty dark garnet, but I thought it was a definite step up from the La Migoua, and another fine match with the food. It shows smoke, tobacco, black currant and sea air on the nose; these follow through in the flavors with notes of bacon as it opens. Bree characterized it as "still a very young wine," and I would agree.

1993 La Bastide Blanche Bandol Cuvee Fontanieu, 13% alc.: Although Brad B. didn’t seem "overly struck" with the Bandol’s either, he and I did agree that this was the best of the bunch. Another slightly rusty dark garnet, this features somewhat funky black currant, black berry character with leathery undertones and silky tannins. Bree called it "a serious wine," and indeed, it’s very nice with or without food. Best of all, it should continue to improve for at least a few more years.

Even after having lobbied for the Bandol theme, I have to admit that, with the possible exception of the Cuvee Fontanieu, they were not up to the likes of Chave, Vieux Télégraphe or even Pesquera. Bandols are not flashy wines that will show well in this kind of wide open tasting; they do much better when considered on their own terms, especially when paired with the regional cuisine, and that’s how we’ll continue to enjoy them in the future.

1997 Jamet Côte – Rotie, 13% alc.: Mario Marois seemed to take a real shine to this inky garnet, with its quintessential Côte – Rotie character of bacon, garrigue and black fruit. Showing marvelous depth and concentration, and despite its relative youth, this was surely one of the Wines of the Night, showing that Mr. Marois has a taste for the good stuff indeed!

There were a number of other great wines opened, and while I partook in several of them, I stopped being the scribe with the Jamet. Larry Meehan did an admirable job of continuing to record impressions, and it must once again be reported that Graeter’s ® Black Raspberry Chip Ice Cream is the finest ice cream this taster has ever had the pleasure to enjoy, so much so, that I helped myself to a second serving.