Larry Meehan's Tasting Notes


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"The first bottle was corked (we all shed a tear), but carrying the Boy Scout motto of "Be Prepared" to perverse, albeit pleasurable proportions, our man Tim Thomas (left) brought a back up bottle..." Larry on the 1986 Chave Hermitage

1993 Luneau-Papin Le "L" D'Or Muscadet -- lime and lemon...stones and sea air...so fresh and "alive". Wonderful with the oysters! It seems light in weight, but quite concentrated with flavor...balanced, smooth, and juicy...light brine, and plenty of rocks...a good "crunch" in the finish. It seems youthful.

1991 Storybook Mountain Zin -- deep and rich with black fruits, bramble, earth, clove and light spices. It seems well balanced -- nothing sticking out or pointy -- and harmonious. It is not flashy, but quite pleasant...a reminder of the days when I used to buy zin.

1995 DeLoach Russian River Valley Zinfandel OFS (16.8 alc) -- Wow -- all about crushed black raspberry (and consequently a good match for the ice cream sandwich)...fruit sweet and juicy, with light notes of bramble...some peppery character to wrap it up. Loads of alcohol but it carries it off nicely -- not hot, but very rich and smooth. A small pour is plenty, but it is in that "tasty/fun" category.

1992 Ridge Geyserville (Magnum) -- quite different from the bottle (750) many of us shared back in September -- much less ripe and primary, this seems more "classic" in regard to maturing Geyserville. Black cherries, light smoke, lots of spice, and a touch of raw meat on the nose. In the mouth, black raspberries and cherries are smooth and strong, backed by mineral laced earth, tar and spice...long and slightly tangy at the finish. There is still some tannin, and balanced acidity...it has not yet made the "claret" transformation, but I imagine it will in the next few years. Delicious!

1992 Ridge Lytton Estate ATP -- sweet, black raspberry fruit and spice, but it has a powdery cloud drifting over the top. The powder persists in the mouth -- after a nice burst of juicy fruit, it seems as if a Pixie Stick had been emptied into my glass...the textural element is apparent from the middle through the finish. This seemed like an odd feature to an otherwise appealing wine...I regret I did not revisit it to see how or if it changed.

1992 Ridge Lytton Springs -- This has a very ripe, sweet nose of black fruit, cinnamon, and a touch of vanilla...just a little alcoholic heat. The flavors follow right along -- not over the top with heat or ripeness, but nearing that point. Tannins are melded in...acids not really a factor. I'd certainly drink these sooner than not...

2000 Schwarz (Austrian Zweigelt - Red Table Wine) -- Black as night. It seems to be massively extracted and showing a very hot palate presence, even though it is listed at 13.5%abv. Scents of tar, vanilla, black and blueberries...strangely chemical...warm. Black and blue fruit...on the sweeter side...soft, but thick...smooth and creamy...broad palate coverage. Creosote and pool chemicals tend to mar the middle...vanilla, spice and herbs through the finish. Manfred Krankl lent his assistance to creating this wine...I've had a few SQN I enjoyed -- but this seemed to be a capsule cliché for everything people do not like about SQN.

2000 Domaine Marc Morey Chassagnes Montrachet 1er Cru Les Vegnes -- a light whisper of vanilla and hazelnut...plenty of flowers, apples and stones. Soft, pear flavors, with vanilla and more stones...an attractive glass-like texture.

1999 Donnhoff Schlopbockelheim Kupfenburge Riesling Spatslese -- all sorts of early petrol scents seem to quickly blow off. Quince, apricot and stones...light, precise and very nice.

1995 Chapoutier Chante - Alouette Hermitage Blanc -- a thick nose of honey, wet stones and herbs. Oily and thick in the mouth -- honey, cantaloupe, herbs...anise at the finish.

1996 JL Chave Hermitage Blanc -- lemons, herbs and wet stones. Rich and full, but resounds with nice acids. Herbal at its core -- accenting the pear/citrus thrust....minerals and spice carry through the long finish.

1997 Joly Coulee de Serrant -- potent lemon mixes with honey, peppery herbs and stones to forge a lingering perfume. The flavors are tight and compact, but still vibrant and bright -- citrus juice intertwined with perky acids. It shows a gorgeous, caressing texture...the midpatate sweetens with more of an apricot and mineral profile. This '97 is perhaps less "wild" than other CdS I've tried, but excellent, all the same.

1996 Duval – Leroy Blanc de Chardonnay Champagne Brut -- a peppermint oil/anise nose. Tart apples play against potent bubbles...clean (even sharp) through the center, but turning pleasantly sweet at the finish. A good tasting palate cleanser...

1999 Michel Tete Julineas Clos Du Fief -- dark in color...plenty of cranberry and dried leaf scents...a bit of mineral and blood, too. Initially rich with cherry, but turning thinner, heading toward cough syrup and herbs. It has a good acidic crunch...basically pleasant, but a bit thin.

2002 Clos della Roillette (Coudert) -- pretty closed up on the nose -- light herbs and cherry. Light, soft cherry flavors in the mouth, along with a medley of leaves, twigs, and earth...acids are quite strong. Having sampled this 3 other times, I'm pretty certain this has gone to sleep -- revisit in a few years, it is a good one.

1999 Springhill Reserve Pinot Noir -- A glorious nose of "Oregon garrigue" -- chock full of flowers, herbs and earth... ripe cherries and orange rind...one can almost smell the elevating acid. Sweet cherry flavors, earth and spice are soft, rich and juicy in the mouth...good concentration and persistence. Light minerals and more orange at the close. The acids keep it fresh, but it hits me as just a bit riper than is my preference (Mark H. noted this was likely an effect of the vintage), but I'd think most would find it delicious. I liked it a great deal, especially when considers it mid-teens price -- just an excellent bargain for the quality. I'd like to try a few other vintages.

1994 Phelps Insignia -- all sorts of butter and sweet oak. It is wet and juicy in the mouth, showing off decent black fruits, but too much timber and dill for my liking this night. It could have been that it was in poor company this night (too many Old World wines), but in general, I'd start drinking any leftover 94's.

2000 Porter Creek Syrah RRV Timberline Ranch -- an interesting nose on menthol, liturgical incense, black cherry, and some intriguing funk. Black cherry fruit is rich at the attack, but turns a bit tart through the center. Good balance in the components, otherwise...perhaps in a transition. A wine I'd like to try again.

2002 JP Brun Terres Dorees "Cote du Brouilly" -- crunchy leaves, bark, and black cherry. Solid black fruit with another helping of leaves in the flavor spectrum...long cranberry/mineral/leafy finish... very concentrated, but tight through the center. The acid rules the roost here, but 2-3 should mellow this snappy Beaujolais. This bottling is not presently imported to the states...I'd buy it if it were.

2001 Cuvee Plateau de Bel Air Brouilly -- a dusty nose, that shows some chemical/chlorine early, but it moves on -- replaced by cherry and clove. Full (relatively speaking) and juicy -- both sweet and tart cherry flavors...pepper and various other spices.

1982 Chat. Mouton Barone Philipe - Pauillac -- musty...tobacco and decaying wood. Soft, wet and earthy...fine tannins...some nice mineral, but past peak.

NV Rene Geoffrey Brut -- Yeast, bread dough and lemon rind. More lemon and then tart apple in the mouth...crisp, pungent bubbles make a very lively foil to a doughy center. Firm, but rich...quite good

2000 Allemand Sans Soufree Cornas -- almost black in color. A huge nose of crushed, ripe black berries, along with plenty of wet stone, and a hint of animal. Wet and juicy black fruit (quite "grapey" at the outset) runs from end to end, but it is encased in granite, and a thin, but strong band of tannin. Notes of bacon, meat, and pepper appear at various intervals. Almost a barrel sample at its center, but there such compelling nuance all around it. I really love this wine...

1992 Bonneau Celestins CdP -- my friend Aris has always spoken highly of this bottling, so I was anxious to try it...I'm afraid this bottle might not have been a prime example. Medicinal and chock full of powdery herbs...sort of high pitched, thin and gamy. It was not really showing much fruit or depth otherwise...

1986 Chave Hermitage -- The first bottle was corked (we all shed a tear), but carrying the Boy Scout motto of "Be Prepared" to perverse, albeit pleasurable proportions, our man Tim Thomas brought a back up bottle -- wow! Black fruits are trumped by fragrant earth/dust, lots of tobacco, and touch of sweaty leather...a complex, intriguing nose. The structure (smooth tannins, slightly pushy acids) lightly muscles the fruit, but neither seem out of sorts because of it....dark earth and mineral run side by side with dried cherry and currant. Mineral, spice and pipe tobacco run long on the finish...some light funk, too. I suppose some might call this an "intellectual wine" at this point...call me an egghead.

1998 Chat. La Nerthe CdP -- a nice floral garrigue with tobacco accents. Big, bold, and broad in the mouth...sweet, juicy red fruits and spice...warm earth and iron at the core. Tannins tighten it up through the center and take on a "death grip" through the finish. Nice materials, but it needs a few years...

1995 Vieux Telegraphe CdP -- A tough and closed nose when I came across this bottle -- earthy and herbal...grilled asparagus. Soft at the entry with wet red fruits, tobacco and plenty of spice, but tannins assert themselves through the center. I'm not sure I've had a 95 CdP that is "ready" yet...I've tried this VT a number of times before, and still think it has nice promise.

1996 Chave Hermitage -- (poured blind for me) dark earth, menthol, black fruits, meat and a nice sprinkling of mineral. Juicy upfront black fruit is met by plenty of earth and smooth structure...powdered orange peel, meat and spice. The finish was long on tannin, but smooth...then earthy. I guessed "mid-nineties Hermitage...probably Chave" (though the Chave part was likely aided by the fact I previously saw some bottles on the table). Guessing specific bottles/producers is not my forte, but some elements just strike a chord. This '96 has a world of upside...

1986 Pesquera Coecha Especial -- still deep in color. Dusty nose of iron shavings, mint and black cherries. Soft and wet in the mouth with black fruit and fine grained earth. Some leather through the center, but most noticeable is the "granular" sense to the tannins. A bit dried on the finish (also adding peppermint), but overall it is very interesting wine.

1989 Pesquera Ribera del Duero -- more brown in color. Sweet smelling with cherries and vanilla...nice floral and mint notes, too. Light in the mouth, and seeming a bit dried out...dusty, dried fruits and leather...short. Perhaps a bit warm with alcohol...much of the structure has faded out.

1994 Pesquera Janus -- quite dark in color. Brooding with leather, dust mineral and something akin to a dried black raspberry. Big and broad at the attack, but then it quickly closes...some rich plum and berry peaks through...its mineral core is obvious, but it is very tight. Tobacco and herbs reveal themselves, too. Tannins are wide and strong...sort of a quiet grace. I'd love to try this when it is open...

1995 Joly Coulee de Serrant Molleaux -- Mark H. relayed this was only the second vintage in the century (the other being 1959) that conditions were favorable enough for a sweet Coulee de Serrant Molleaux. The bottle was open at least 10 hours before sampling -- it was still reserved. Subtle scents of apricot and tangerine...light herbs and wet stones. More "subtlety" in the mouth -- the tangerine and apricot on the nose are joined by sweet tones of honey and the light crunch of minerals...turning more toward juicy orange with time...herbal backbeats throughout. The acids are firm, but unhindering/textures are soft...sweet, but gently so. Everything is in there, it will just take years to show its best.

1990 d' Yquem -- served to me blind and a little too cold...it has an intensely floral nose...orange, herbs, and honey with less intensity. Quite sweet up front with candied orange and apricot...herbs and a strong core of stone....notes of mint on the finish. Sweet and pleasant, but it seems fat...more so as it warms. It really seems to lack balancing acid...I was a bit surprised to learn its identity. It is hard for me to believe this will have great development over the years, but my experience with these wines is limited.

1998 Picolit Girolamo Dorigo -- orange blossoms and light notes of caramel on the nose. It is smooth and plush as it enters the mouth, with soft, caressing textures. It shows apricot and herbs, but with fine density...sweet and concentrated throughout, but nicely balanced with acid -- quite elegant. The finish is clean (minimal heat), leaving a nice praline resonance.

NV Campbell's Tokay "Liquid Gold" -- smells of strong coffee and burnt sugar. Ultra sweet in the mouth -- crème brulee and pralines, but quite warm. A sip was enough for my gentle palate, but it certainly had its fans.

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