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stumbled across a number of freshly discounted Lopez de Heredia Rioja  wines in a distributor's catalog and felt immediately compelled to purchase them for a future group tasting. We did just that in early March, with ten tasters assembling at Bob Eppich's Colonial Beverage to sample through the lineup.

Lopez de Heredia wines are all about tradition -- crafted in a style that has changed very little since the 1880's, they present wines that are very different from most considered typical. Still owned and operated by family of the founders, they use no pesticides and no chemicals.  The grapes are hand harvested and hand racked.  They use natural yeasts and no filtration and the staves on aging barrels are replaced by 'on staff' coopers. After all that, there is no need to hurry -- bottlings are held for years before release, with their Gran Reservas sometimes being held for decades. Obviously they fashion their wines for the long haul, but their style creates controversy, as complaints of oxidation, volatility and overt oaky character (they use American oak) can be heard around the wine world. We shall see...

The terms Tondonia and Bosconia refer to the vineyard designated sites from which Lopez de Heredia sources their fruit. The white wines are dominated by the Viura grape with additions from Malvasia, and Garnacho Blanc. The red wines feature Tempranillo, along with Garnacho, Manzuela and Graciano (the latter two varieties adding the acidic punch to the wines).

Whites --


1993 Vina Gravonia Crianza Find this wine ($16) -- I always kid my friend Loren Sonkin about his scores for 'optics' on wines, but this (and all the other "whites" for that matter) will be a true test for his acumen and imagination -- the color scheme ran from green to a deep orange depending when one cast a glance its way. It has a lightly oxidized character about it, but it seems to help disperse delicate orange blossom and mineral scents with just a hint of swampy funk. It is full and powerful in the mouth -- probably showing the most weight of any of the white wines. Initial honey is followed by a touch of bitterness as it closes. As time goes by, the swell of citrus and acid covers that nicely.

1991 Vina Gravonia Crianza Find this wine ($18) -- The initial scents are best described as 'nutty' - - a nice piece of parmesano. With time (a few hours) it moves to a very high toned persona with a crescendo that Pam Gillikin aptly described as a "basket full of flowers..." likely some lemon peel, too. The palate is clean, crisp, and very fresh -- lots of lime and grapefruit driven home by a good bit of acid. It has a long, peppered resolve -- the nice length being a common feature in all the wines on the table. This wine was very different than the '93 in weight and cut, but I found both quite appealing.

1987 Vina Todonia Reserva Find this wine ($25) -- A puff of dust is quickly supplanted by a potent tropical/pineapple edge - nothing to sneeze at. The nose has a lightly oxidized character, but the elements seem to grow in dimension as the hours pass. It is deep and dense in the mouth -- plenty on lemon running all the way through a citrus packed, tangy finish. It has good weight to the body -- very smooth and round, but still energized with acids.  As time passed, honey was more pronounced in the middle and close.  Lime and mineral become the feature, as the lemon rolls back. It is excellent wine both intellectually and viscerally, not to mention quite a bargain for the price.

1981 Vina Todonia Gran Reserva Find this wine ($50) -- My first real brush with any oak-like character as the scent of butterscotch was pronounced and strong. Within minutes this aspect faded from perception, replaced by sweet pineapple and honey carrying right through to the palate. It is very intense, while being so very light in its touch -- "elegant" -- yes! Somewhat herbal at its core, but more of a complexity than any sort of distraction; ground sea shells and pulverized stone -- all so very light. Like all the wines previous, the acids give this 25 year old white wine life and verve. Wonderful.

One element I noted in all the whites later in the evening was a powdered Altoid/peppermint aspect to the nose. Perhaps neither good, nor bad, but certainly interesting that it was a common thread through all of them.

All the whites were appealing and certainly thought provoking. All seemed to continue their development over hours. All would seem to have years ahead of them.

Rosé and Red

1993 Vina Tondonia Rosado Find this wine ($11) -- The 1995 Rosado was recently released, so I guess this 1993 model must now be looked upon as a young veteran. The color here bears mentioning, as I thought it more orange than any shade of red or pink though I'll defer to Loren and his very accurate "copper" descriptor.  The nose was very reluctant for upwards of an hour, but once revisited it had a delightful strawberry, paraffin, and mountain stream fragrance. Bits of strawberry probably register in the mouth, but this wine seems to defy any real fruit essence and defines itself as being fresh, fresh, fresh. It is spicy, zesty, and laced with mineral... quite complex. So interesting, yet so fun... it makes me smile. If you have any kids born in 1993 and want to lay away a few 'birth year bottles,' I guarantee you'll not find many bottles more unique, and less expensive, that still have years to go.

1996 Vina Bosconia Reserva Find this wine ($20) -- A dusting of cocoa, earth and 'rusted out Chevy pick up' tickle the nose. The corrosion seems to leak across the palate at first, but a good splash of cherry washes it away. Where it seemed light at first, it steadily put on weight. As is the norm tonight, acids sparkle. Roland Riesen thought this to be overly acidic and tannic. At first the tannins were lost on me, but in reflection, this likely was the most tannic and 'under fruited' wine of the night. Context is everything.  This was probably the least interesting and appealing wine of the group, but not bad at all.

1995 Vina Tondonia Reserva Find this wine ($25) -- Brown sugar, earth tones and good splash of vanilla all softly rise from the glass. As time went by it hit a period of fur, funk, and shoe polish (Kiwi brand - brown) which I rather enjoyed, but the mere mention of it seemed a bit off putting to some. It has a chewy and juicy way about it when sipped.  Roland accurately tabbed it as "more extracted" than the wines that surrounded it. More of that same old "long finish..."

1994 Vina Tondonia Reserva Find this wine ($27) -- Initially funky and iodine laced, but it rapidly turns toward floral tones, baking spices, and dark fruits... very fresh smelling. There are plenty of upfront acids and racy red fruits complemented by a medley of earth, rock, and spice. In comparison to the '95 Reserva this is more lean and elegant. I find it charming.

1985 Vina Tondonia Gran Reserva Find this wine ($50) -- It seems dusty and musty... somewhat oxidized in the early sniffing. It swirls toward more iron, mineral and earth tones. It seems chunky in the mouth, tannic and certainly acidic, but not lacking in proportion as there is ample fruit. It may sound odd in the context of the vast majority of wines, but this '85 strikes me as especially young and undeveloped. The components are all there for a truly fine bottle of wine with each hour that passed seemed to affirm this notion.

1981 Vina Bosconia Gran Reserva Find this wine ($50) -- A little bit volatile at the outset and high toned throughout. It shows subtle floral tones and (husk on) roasted corn fragrance along with a number of other intriguing little nuances. It delicately drapes itself across my tongue, depositing bits of iron, dried black fruits, and flecks of stone here and there. It is extremely agile and engaging in its textures. It is both long and deep. My last sip elicited a "wow," followed by an eyes closed meditation. I think that sums it up nicely.

Loren Sonkin (with bottle) and Mike Donnelly mug for the camera

The wines as a group were fascinating and appealing, with their freshness and verve being a hallmark. Some participants joined us for the curiosity of the event, but everyone in this group of fairly diverse palates left the tasting seeming very impressed. Certainly these wines are not for everyone, but they are unique and engaging... one of those rare tastings where I was genuinely excited about almost all the wines.

LM

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