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2002 Catherine and Pierre Breton Bourguiel Clos Senechal -- As I
contemplated this wine, I had no doubt that it would indeed be better
"some day," but this did little to hinder my enjoyment in the moment.
Snappy raspberry rides over woodland flora and fauna -- choosing not to
go around the substantial rocks on the trail, but instead bounds right
over the top of them. A perilous behavior? Perhaps...but it is
exhilarating. It is in no way "ripe," but the fruit has a lovely
transparency. Tannins are firm, and the acids bring it all to life. It
is listed at 11.7% alc, and it is priced in the low $20's. I scratch my
head and wonder why I do not yet have a case from which to drink
whenever the spirit moves me.
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2000 Nikolaihof Riesling Smaragd Im Weingebirge
-- This is such a fine and precise Riesling, bathing both my nose and
palate with a bounty of tropical fruits (pineapple, mango, and guava in
particular) while drawing clean cuts through stone and earth. All the
favors and scents seeming singular, but then nicely meshing. There is
ample verve and it dances merrily on the tongue...gorgeous wine, that
has taken a small step toward maturity.
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One never knows what they will find inside a bottle, but these two wines
were a reason to celebrate any time.
 On the eve of Christmas Eve I found my way to Tom
and Jenna Warren's home for a round of non-denominational revelry
and semi-extreme wine geekery. Loren Sonkin, Roland Riesen, and
Tom's childhood friend, Daniel Sogg (far left with Tom
Warren) all joined the fray. Dan is a feature writer with Wine Spectator, and seems to have the "New
World" as his main beat. There were a number of brown bags in play --
"snapshot, blind postulation" not being my favorite game, but 'tis the
season, so fa la la la la...
1990 Salomon Steiner Pfaffenberg Riesling Spatlese -- I have had
this Austrian on a number of occasions and continue to find it very
appealing. As it does have a very pronounced petrol component at the
outset, I gave it a splash in the decanter before offering it up. The
color is a dark hued gold. The nose still offers plenty of petrol, but
also a nice assortment of citrus, wet rocks and light honey/herbal
tones. The palate follows suit, showing fine density and a long mineral
wash at the close...nothing sticky or uncomfortably warm. As the hours
rolled by, I would occasionally revisit it -- steadily developing, and
becoming all the more enticing. This is a gorgeous wine, with seemingly
many years ahead of it.
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1997 Huet Vouvray Clos du Bourg Moelleux -- Perhaps it was a
result of the substantial sweetness following the Austrian, but I could
not quite wrap my arms around this being a Chenin Blanc... though as Dan
pointed out the deep color, it certainly made sense. Making that leap of
faith, Vouvray seemed to be the choice. The nose is all about fresh, sun
kissed peaches and oranges -- seeming high toned and light. The initial
blast of flavor seemed intensely sweet (not the impression that bouquet
gave me)... candied orange and lemon, crusted in sugar. Floral notes,
light herbs, and bright acidity kept it interesting, until enough hours
passed where the merger of olfactory and taste became almost seamless.
It appears very young, albeit pleasant with air and time.
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2001 Kante Malvasia -- This had a very pale color, which in some
ways reflected its personality. Some wondered if it might be afflicted
with TCA, but at least Loren and I verbalized that we thought not.
Still, I can understand how such a question might be generated -- the
wine has wet, herbal notes...seeming to flat line, then lifting itself
up with a good dose of cold stainless steel and mineral as it closes.
There is a Spartan ethic at work here, which perhaps had me wildly
guessing that it might be some sort of "esoteric, biodynamic Greek
wine." The lingering bitter almond (nicely tamed by Jenna's curried
carrot soup) just seeming to further that harsh, sparse notion.
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Once it was revealed, "Italy" and "Malvasia" seemed to make sense. I
enjoy trying these "off the/my beaten trail" wines, but was a bit
floored when hearing the price on this one -- about $40. Too much,
methinks...especially when Loren reported this wine had similar traits
in every showing.
1991 Domaine Chateau Vaumarl Pinot Gris (Switzerland) -- The nose
was full of briny sea air and light oceanic decay. It had plenty of
mineral, but seemed quite flat, and perhaps "old" when sipped. It
provided some minor interest, but I think this bottle has seen better
days.
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2001 Donnhoff Norheimer Kirschheck Spatlese Riesling -- Tom
presented this to us in a decanter, so there would be no secrets
revealed by bottle shape. Still it seemed all about Riesling, and German
at that. This tasted very young, but delightful. It showed off an
extremely bearable lightness of being that provided my shining moment in
the night's guessing festivities -- it declared itself Donnhoff, and I
mouthed the words. There was mineral aplenty and a fine edge to the
acidity -- very pretty wine. I was surprised to find it was a 2001, as
there were many reports that these wines had moved into a shut down
phase -- not so here. That said, it was hours before there was a notion
of the Kirschheck "red fruit" flavors, when a bit of strawberry seemed
to arrive. The wine lost nothing with air time...to the contrary, it
steadily improved.
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I continue to be fascinated how some of my favorite producers (Donnhoff,
Chave, Allemand, etc.) are more obvious to me in their "house style"
than they are in representing their specific site... though this could
easily be attributed to my style of appreciation, or in many cases, the
general youth of the wines where even conscientious wine makers might
over shadow the "place". I'll be interested to follow the development of
some of these wines.
We moved toward dinner and red wines -- lamb chops, roasted beets, beet
greens, etc.
1994 Michel Ogier Cote Rotie -- this wine has a cloudy, somewhat
murky look about it, but I think the nose sings out Cote Rotie with
plenty of bacon, perfumed red fruit and black olives. Plenty of dark
earth and grainy textures wrestling with the raspberry fruit...a good
bit of rust as it closes. I've had this wine a few times in the past
year, and though I find it interesting to drink and contemplate, I think
it has reached a point of decline. I'd drink these in the next year or
two.
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 1999 Tikal Jubilo Altos de Mendoza -- The dark and shiny liquid
was poured from a huge, thick bottle that would give some magnums an
inferiority complex. After a swirl, a sniff, and a sip, it was a model
high end Napa Meritage blend -- full of thick, creamy fruit, unctuous
textures, broad tannins, and a long plush finish. It is a crowd pleaser
and viscerally moving, while seeming as sincere as most programming on
the E! Network. For those used to paying $100-150 for such an
experience, this will seem like quite a deal at around $50...nobody
should care it is from Argentina.
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2004 Sineann Cabernet Sauvignon Baby Poux -- The glass closure
tipped me off that it was likely one of
Sineann wines from the
Pacific Northwest. It was clearly a Cabernet, or Cab blend featuring
plenty of rich milk chocolate, vanilla, and juicy black fruit. It is
smooth and full in the mouth, but largely unevolved. The "Baby Poux"
(about $40) refers to a younger block of the Champoux vineyard.
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 1990 Angelus St. Emillion -- In the early going I thought this
was clearly an "old school" Napa Cab -- showing a nice blend of graceful
fruit, with an herbal core. I was guessing it to be a 1995 or 1996 model
with "decent structure and slightly fading fruit." Even an hour
after it was "revealed," I did not sense much of a change, but just
before wrapping up the evening, it clearly made the metamorphosis toward
cedar and tobacco notes...more mineral, along with fleshier fruit. This
clearly needed time to blossom, and in the fleeting moments of the
night, it was very attractive.
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1997 Ridge Santa Cruz Mountain Cabernet Sauvignon -- It was not
as if we needed more to sample, but Tom felt compelled to go to the
cellar and returned with another decanter full of wine. It is
interesting that some felt this showed a good bit of oak on the nose,
but I was focused on the earth and stone elements. I was locked in to a
"Super Tuscan" guess, as it seemed to be a hypothetical Cab and
Sangiovese blend to me... the firm, assertive tannins seeming "very
Italian." Tom eventually relayed it was purchased for $23, and was
perhaps from California. This prompted my "if they can make a wine like
this for $23 in California, I'll have to buy some" comment. The irony,
of course, is that I did indeed buy this wine -- a case in fact. These
Ridge SCM Cabs need time in the cellar, but they remain one of the
outstanding values in California when one desires a wine to watch
develop over the years.
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Dan was kind enough to open an assortment of Sauternes that we
eventually learned were all produced in 1988.
1988 Chateau Sigalas Rabaud -- the group seemed rather divided as
to favorites among this quartet, but this one was clearly one of my
favorites. In particular, I found the acidity here ably foiled the
orange syrupy sweetness...lingering bits of honey and herb at the close.
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1988 Chateau Rieussec -- Loren noted a fragrance of "sea air" and
I think that was a very apt descriptor. Sweet orange and apricot
dominate the flavor profile...more thick, sweet, and viscous than the
previous.
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1988 Chateau Lafaurie Peyraguey -- This was another that showed
more acidity, and in my mind greater balance. Oranges and apricots again
rule the day, though this Sauterne showed more of a mineral and herb
component than any of the others -- making the finish both interesting
and long.
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1988 Chateau Climens (from a 375 ml) -- This was the darkest,
thickest, as well as the sweetest of the four. The orange, apricot and
honey were intense, but where I thought it needed more acid as an
offset, others preferred the depth of fruit and sweetness.
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2002 Sine Qua Non Mr. K "The Nobleman" (375 ml) -- This was
another from Tom's basement, and a fitting coup de gras. The wine was
very thick and syrupy, seeming more like an exotic ice cream topper than
a dessert wine. It bears down on your palate with full bodied orange
sweetness...no acid to wash it way, it attaches with a very long, warm,
cloying resonance. It probably suffered as the last wine in a very large
array, but I was still glad to try one of the somewhat rare SQN dessert
wines.
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I'm a persistent "spitter" but this was a great deal of wine to sample,
offer critical analysis, and still remain quick with a joke. As time
went by, the hard core geekery faltered, and we were better people for
the transition...even talk on the chemistry of
brettanomyces gets a little stale after a while. A good time was had by all, and many
thanks go to Jenna and Tom Warren for their gracious hospitality.
I grew up with all the carols and hymns beautifully rendered, relatives
near and dear, the lights all aglow and presents aplenty...you can take
the Church out of the boy, but the spirit of the season is not only left
intact, but a welcome event. To paraphrase the Doobie Brothers --
both Jesus and Santa are "just alright with me."
Roland joined our expanded clan making it eventually six youngsters, and
seven kid-like adults for Christmas Eve. Red and green pasta (with
roasted tomatoes, garlic, white beans, and spinach/beet greens), well
slathered pork tenderloin, grilled asparagus, delicately delicious,
roasted gold and red baby beets on a bed of watercress, etc. all made
for a fine repast.
NV Segura Viudas Brut Reserva -- This Cava is a top notch
sparkler, and certainly a candidate for multi-bottle purchase at <$14.
It is very fresh -- expressing clean, clear floral and apple tones, with
a nice dusting of mineral. It delivers plenty of dough and soft textures
on the palate, but ends crisp and clean. A super starter!
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1999 Texier Chateauneuf-du-Pape -- The first was a "no doubt
about it" corked bottle. Somewhat annoyed, I descended to the cellar to
pull forth another, albeit the last on the rack. The second bottle is a
real pleasure to sniff -- full of flowers and a medicinal garrigue in
its bouquet. Poured straight from the bottle, we all enjoyed the
strawberry/rhubarb flavors, though it steadily added peppery spice,
minerals, and a nice dose of lavender. It is in a good place as the
acids and tannins maintain reasonable levels of snap and crunch
respectively, while the fruit and its friends come across as somewhat
complex and certainly enticing. Good stuff. Both bottles were
Louis-Dressner imports, though most of my other Texier bottlings were
imported through Vintner Select in Ohio.
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2003 Cristia Chateauneuf-du-Pape Renaissance -- I've not tried
many of the 2003 CdP, so I was quite interested in looking at this one
over a few hours. It is no "monster" that the vintage has the reputation
for producing, but it is ripe and warm. The nose shows some heat, but
mostly it features light doses of brown sugar and plenty of baking
spice. The fruit flavors are dark and accented by some "heavily roasted
coffee" and plenty of tobacco at the close. Acids are not its strong
suit, but it is neither soft nor unpleasant in its feel. The
tannins set up in a way that put me in mind of a Napa Cabernet. This
does not impress me as a wine that will develop well in the cellar, but
it should find some broad appeal in the near term.
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1999 Belle Pente Pinot Noir Willamette Valley -- I've sampled
this wine on a number of occasions, this being the first time where I
thought the fruit used its weight and demeanor to push the other aspects
to the background. In some ways it drank like a Russian River
(California) Pinot with its plush berries and Asian spice accents, but
as time went by, the underlying herbal "Oregon garrigue" made itself
known. It has a good bit of richness, and pairs well with the slightly
spicy pork, but it maintains enough structural integrity to seem
balanced. From year to year (around $18) this bottling from Belle Pente
is one the nation's best buys in Pinot Noir. This 1999 model still has a
great deal to offer, and I look forward to watching its journey.
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Christmas Day
 We changed venue to my sister Mary Louisa and Kevin's
place, with an even larger contingent of family now assembled. My
grandmother, Daisy (age 96) had a fine time talking with all her
"great" and merely "grand" children, but few things could top her
sitting by the piano and listening to the songs of the season.
A variety of beverages were consumed, but I had an
inking that the magnum of Geyserville would be well received by my Ridge
loving relatives...
1996 Ridge Geyserville (1500 ml) -- In some ways the nose
reminded me of the previous day's "Renaissance" with its brown spice and
tobacco, but blackberries, bramble, and strong coffee eventually trumped
all others. Dark plum and blackberry flavor are quite full in the mouth,
joining light doses of chocolate and the standard Ridge array of spice.
Blackberry jam, coffee (with cream), and a bit of mineral peak out at
the close. I liked it... the family loved it. What more could one
hope for?
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I've been critical of this '96 Geyserville for years, thinking it one of
the less appealing Geyser's of the 90's... frequently overripe, soft,
and prickly with alcohol. That said, I had higher hopes for a magnum, as
opposed to the smaller bottles. Perhaps a self fulfilling
prophesy, but it was neither too ripe, nor too hot on this day. The wine
seemed younger, better balanced and certainly appealing.
It was a lovely celebration of the season filled with good food, wine
and in particular, friends and family. It has been our year-round good
fortune to have all of the above, and we remain grateful for such gifts.
I wish you all the happiest sort of New Year!
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Larry's previous
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4 Flights of 1995 Cabs
Larry Meehan was a one
time "boy entrepreneur," now a full time Dad. In the moments when the
insanity fades, he is a fairly prolific tasting note writer, minor
league party planner/caterer, sporadic wine educator, and consultant for a few
retailers who (at their own peril) seem to value his opinions. Hailing from near Cleveland, he
frequently gathers with local enthusiasts to share thoughts and a few glasses, but also
concocts a number of tasting events that bring friends together from around the country.
Larry samples hundreds of wines a year from a myriad of regions -- "Understanding the diverse
and constantly changing landscape of wine will be a life long endeavor...I'm glad it is
so much fun!"
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initiated our observance of the season at a time that only
seemed
correct -- the winter solstice. The shortest day, or longest night of
the year has been reason to celebrate for thousands of years, and long
before Christmas was a flicker in a Pope's eye. This is a season where
we brandish light (hopefully my Weber grill added to the glow), and
revel in the darkness as Egyptians, Romans, Druids (note our "woodsy"
tree topping Santa) and many other "pagan
peoples" did throughout the years.