This release features a considerable amount of decent wines at realistic prices especially those in the red wine category. Sadly several of the wines I was eager to try were not shipped. Regrettably once again my time at the tasting was limited so notes taken were done in haste. I missed trying the white wine of the month, EOS’s 97 Chardonnay, but heard several raves about it from others present. Had a good slurp of the red wine of the month and was duly impressed. Although it’s a generic Bourgogne from Olivier Leflave, it delivers some lovely Pinot fruit flavours and an enjoyable slightly sweet finish. Only a few of the American reds offered in the release were available to taste. Most of the 1998 high-end Canadian reds, released to celebrate Canada Day, are worth trying but many do need cellaring. Some scary stuff to note! Out of eighty or so wines opened, a total of seven were corked!

391037 CHARDONNAY BARREL FERMENTED ‘A’ 1999 $10.95 VQA - Niagara Peninsula, Estate Bottled, (Marynissen Estates) Ontario
This wine is listed as the 1999 in the catalogue but the board sent the 97. If you are looking to stock up on some well-made decent simple sipping Chardonnay that’s drinking well now then this will do just fine. For under eleven bucks there is plenty of toasty buttery oak with hint of praline candy bar, canned fruit and ripe pear. Finishes short but it is pleasant.

453472 GEWÜRZTRAMINER 1999 $14.95 St. David’s Bench, VQA - Niagara Peninsula (Château des Charmes) Ontario
Quite viscous and full of bold spicy aromas. I liked this wine before I even tasted it just from its splendid aroma. Lots of typical lychee fruit, Asian spices and star Anise plus a hit of After Eight dinner mint. It has decent concentration, nice balance and fairly long spicy finish.

955914 CHARDONNAY 1997 $15.95 Paso Robles, (Eos Estate Winery) USA
This was the wine of the month and I missed it. Duh. The L.C.B.O’s tasting panel had this to say about it. "A very New World Chardonnay exhibiting aromas of pineapple, coconut, oak, pear, anise and vanilla. Dry, fleshy, generous and powerful with a fairly full body and finish."

990580 SAUVIGNON BLANC 2000 $14.50, Marlborough, South Island, (Fairhall Downs Estate) New Zealand
Not as full blown and assertive as previous vintages but still worth owning some. Lots of smoky and tart gooseberry aromas and an over all rich roundness that teases the buds and the nose with its enticing citrus flavours. The finish is full of exciting lemon/lime acidity and rich tropical fruit that smacks the inside of the cheeks. I am certainly getting some for those barbequed appetizers.

981928 GEWURZTRAMINER 1999 $13.95 Clos Schwendi, ‘Ancienne Cour des Chevaliers de Malte’ (André Blanck) Alsace, France
The only reason I will not buy more of the Chateau de Charmes Gewurztraminer is this Alsatian classic. Although not everyone present was as elated as I was, most people did agree it is a great value. It has everything I love, thanks to the teachings of my Alsatian wine mentor Bastardo. The predominantly floral nose packed full of geranium, lychee and roasted almonds. It is indeed a pretty full-blown wine for the price. The finish is long and focuses on nutmeg laced vanilla custard. Yum!

723007 POUILLY-FUISSÉ 1998 $23.90, ‘Vieilles Vignes’, Domaine de Fussiacus, (Jean-Paul Paquet) France
Have rarely tasted wines from Pouilly Fuisse I had no idea what to expect but I did like what I tasted. Medium yellow colour and quite spicy with apple compote flavours. Nice mineral and fruity acid balance.

944926 CHARDONNAY 1999 $7.95 ‘Hugues de Beauvignac’ Vin de Pays de Côtes des Thau (Les Costières de Pomerols). Hérault, France
It’s unbelievable that a wine of this caliber can sell at such a low price. The colour is strange, one of the greenest Chardonnays I have seen, but the nose is rich and brimming with tropical fruit. Banana skins, pineapple, cantaloupe, Anjou pear and apple all contribute to this new world style wine. It’s maybe a touch sweet in the finish but still, buy in quantity and sip through the summer.

944819 VIOGNIER 1999 $11.35, ‘Richemont Premium’, Barrel Fermented, Vin de Pays d’oc, (Hugh Ryman Wines)
Pungent toasty vanilla dominates the nose but pleasing vegetal and mineral aromas do show through the blockade. It opened quickly in the glass to reveal underlined tones of allspice berry, cinnamon, ripe peaches and pear. Quite the home baked pie syndrome. The taste is full and picks up additional earthiness, honeydew melon and nut oils. Very complex wine at an uncomplicated price. All these flavours suggest a shellfish pasta drizzled with herb scented oil.

465021 CABERNET SAUVIGNON 1995 $34.95 Barrelli Creek Vineyard Alexander Valley, Sonoma County (Prod. & Btld. E & J Gallo)
Very close to celebrating its six birthday, this tannic beauty still appears years away from reaching its peak, if it ever will! Nonetheless it is still a most enjoyable wine loaded with dense blackcurrant, plum and sweet chocolate flavours. Beneath the fruit there is a pleasing spicy/herbaceousness that carries through into the chewy and extended finish.

942342 PETITE SIRAH 1998 $19.95 ‘Selected Vineyards’, California (Prod. & Btld. Concannon)
A deep bold colour, lots of jammy sweet berry aromas and a mouthful of somewhat one-dimensional sweet cherry flavour. Other people present highly recommended it. Maybe it does need some time to develop. Definitely a bold enough wine to accompany some spicy marinated meat on the grill. The finish is long and, pleasing and full. Maybe I just missed something.

713263 ‘SÉGLA’ 1996 $39.95 Margaux AC 2ième vin de Château Rauzan-Ségla,(Château Rauzan-Ségla)
A very well rounded wine drinking nicely right now with traces of lead pencil, green tea, currant and berry aromas. The silky tannin offers a velvety feeling that enhances the fruit flavours nicely. Unfortunately the finish is disappointing and fading fast leaving a sensation of heat in the throat. Of the two Bordeaux I tasted, the Chateau Fonroque is the better wine.

940197 CHÂTEAU FONROQUE 1997 $33.95 Saint-Émilion AC Grand Cru Classé
Lovely bold ruby colour, fruit is focused and dominates the complex nose much more than the leather and chocolate. It has a nice cloying mouth feel and the flavours of red fruit and blackcurrants shine through. There is a kiss of terroir in the close and the acidity is clean and refreshing.

720219 PINOT NOIR 1999 $14.95 Bourgogne AC (Olivier Leflaive)
A most impressive Burgundy for under fifteen bucks that tenders a good waft of plumy fruit and alluring scents of strawberry and raspberry. Over all the pleasing mix of fruit, spice and tannin are nicely harmonized. Not a monster wine by any means but downed with a picnic lunch, cold roasted meats, a simple barbeque or beef Bourguignonne, it will show well.

747865 DOMAINE DE LA GARENNE 1998 $16.95 Bandol AC (Comte Jean de Balincourt)
A killer wine! Inky black coloured wine that hurls out intense aromas of forest mushrooms, Herbes de Provence and ripe blackberry. Its concentrated flavours are funky and not for everyone. It is very tannic now and will be for sometime. The catalogue lists this as having a medium body but I would beg to differ. It is IMHO a full-bodied blockbuster and given the price, worth putting some away.

971564 CHÂTEAUNEUF-DU-PAPE 1998 $28.95 Domaine Mathieu (Charles, Jacqueline, André Mathieu)
I have always enjoyed the wines of Domaine Mathieu but I could not find too much to excite me with this, their most recent offering. The colour is a light ruby red and the nose exhibits some sweet medicinal tones, a little spice and simple red fruit aromas. The taste is pleasant, refreshing and clean but lackluster.

956086 GIGONDAS 1995 $22.85 ‘Seigneurie de Fontange’ Vieilles Vignes
(Cave des Vignerons de Gigondas)
Given this Gigondas from the 1995 vintage is so close to a state of perfect maturity, this is quite the bargain. The colour shows red brick tones on the rim suggesting it is entering into its prime. Lovely hints of black cherry, plum, dark licorice, and a twist or two of fresh black pepper. Its medium body lets the fruit just dances around the palate with ease. Definitely worth grabbing a couple.

973453 VACQUEYRAS 1998 $16.95 (Domaines Perrin)
Maybe this was my favourite wine of the day. It is full bodied, inky and loaded with plum, currant, chili peppers, mineral and a whack of lead pencil. It needs time to settle down and soften those big rich chewy tannins a little. A well balanced fruit and mineral bomb.

29728 ‘CORONAS’ 1999 $10.95 Tempranillo, Catalunya DO (Miguel Torres S.A.) Spain
A pleasant soft and simple sipper showing nice fresh raspberry and strawberry fruit flavours.

701771 CHÂTEAU MUSAR 1993 $42.95 Bekaa Valley (Gaston Hochar) Lebanon
I used to drink Ch Musar when I lived in England during my trainee days of trying to learn and appreciate what fine wines were all about. The appeal of this wine I think was its magical and complex blend of fruit, Moroccan spices and English candy. I was really annoyed when I was shorted on the last "Classics" release of earlier vintages but will be happy to secure a bottle or two of the 93. It still has that magical succulent almost raisin like blend of red berries, cinnamon and dried fruit. The price has increased slightly from the four quid I used to shell out in the UK but it is still worth acquiring some as these wines do age gracefully and do hold well for many years.

Canadian red wines from the highly touted 1998 vintage

319525 CABERNET 1998 $24.95 Paul Bosc Estate Vineyard VQA - Niagara Peninsula (Château des Charmes)
This blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc and Merlot was my favourite of all the red wine from Chateau des Charmes in this release. It’s a dense well-integrated wine that features a robust nose of forest floor, coffee, bold dark fruits and spice. It is full bodied, rich and silky with a solid dose of tannin to keep it aging for a few years to come.

453415 CABERNET FRANC 1998 $24.95 St. David’s Bench VQA - Niagara Peninsula (Château des Charmes)
Again this will need time to develop and show its full potential. Full bodied and packed with sweet cherry, blackberry, liquorish and toffee. Maybe just a little heavy on the oak for me in the lengthy finish.

576314 CABERNET/MERLOT RESERVE 1998 $29.95 ‘Barrel Aged’, Unfiltered VQA - Niagara Peninsula (Konzelmann Estate Winery)
Possibly another candidate for one of the best wines I tasted all day. It is altogether enjoyable in its present state. Rich in floral, fruit and spice tones. The essence of blackcurrant plum and dark cherry are concentrated and mingle well with the luscious tastes of coffee, chocolate and creamy oak. It gives every single taste bud its moneys worth and leaves a sublime silky finish that lingers long. Certainly one of the best wines I have tasted from this producer.

352682 CABERNET/MERLOT 1998 $15.95 VQA - Niagara Peninsula (Marynissen Estates)
Holy cow, this is one funky wine. The instant smack of barnyard manure is brutal and totally overpowered everything else that may lie beyond. If you can get past the heady introduction it offers some interesting tastes of leafy vegetation, tobacco and fruit. I am not saying I didn’t like this wine but as an introductory bottle to a novice, or event worse to impress a first date, not a good idea! Could be an interesting ringer a Bordeaux tasting.

453431 MERLOT 1998 $24.95 St. David’s Bench Vineyard VQA - Niagara Peninsula (Château des Charmes)
Full bodied, big and chock-a-block with flavours that dart all around. Brassy hits of damson, blackberry and white chocolate suggest this needs time to settle down. Oak is detectable but not overdone.

533281 PINOT NOIR 1998 $19.85 ‘Triomphe’ VQA - Niagara Peninsula (Southbrook Farms)
Another wine laden with barnyard deposits. Touch of burnt rubber on the nose but lots of power packed fruit, tarry smoke and tanned leather too. It is dark, full bodied rich and chewy with lots of plum, cinnamon, clove and chalky flavours. It is not an elegant Ontario Pinot but the healthy dose of tannin suggests lay it away for a while and see what happens.

468918 ‘STREWN THREE’ 1998 $28.95 VQA - Niagara Peninsula (Strewn)
Given the vintage, this is surprisingly elegant and harmonious right now. Lovely sweet ripe blackberry and currant flavours combine with black olive, licorice and dark tobacco. Tannins are soft and silky and dark chocolate is distinct in the finish.