Alan’s April 2002 Vintages Release
Tasting Notes
Release
date April 6, 2002
April’s
release features wines from Lake Erie’s North Shores new kid on
the block, Grape Tree Winery. Steven Brook, winemaker and
co-owner is a dedicated entrepreneur with many years experience as both a
grape grower and winemaker. Steven really puts the expression of the
regional terrior elements into his wines. He studied the soil types in Essex
County and local weather conditions thoroughly before venturing into
the winemaking business. For twelve years prior to the preparatory work
involved with opening Grape Tree, Brooks held a position with the LCBO
as product consultant. This time spent with the board gave him a sound
fundamental knowledge of wines in general. April’s release offers
several decent wines that are worth acquiring. On a down side, we are
feeling the affects of our ever-deflating dollar and consequently this has
added quite a premium to the price tag on many American wines. There are
still tickets to be had for the prerelease tasting of wines from the
classics 2002 spring/summer edition catalogue to be held at the "London
Club" in downtown London on Wednesday, May 8. The time slot has
been changed to 7:00 p.m. to 9.30 p.m. Tickets can be had by calling VINTAGES
Customer Service at (416) 365-5767 or toll free at 1-800-266-4764.
Wines of Grape Tree Estate
609792 CABERNET FRANC 2000 $ 12.95, Lake Erie North Shore, Grape
Tree Estate.
Medium ruby colour, the bouquet was clean and clearly focused on tobacco,
hints of green pepper, red currant and clove. The palate was lighter in
style than the aromas suggested. Nice acidity and the red fruit took the
spotlight in the finish.
605782 CABERNET/PETIT VERDOT RESERVE 2000 $ 19.00, Lake Erie North
Shore, Grape Tree Estate Wines.
This appeared to be a little shut down and tight when I tasted it (it had
been open for several hours by the time I got to it). The colour was more
intense than the Cab Franc. This combined with the veil of tannin shows it
could age for a while. There was a noticeable earthiness to the nose that
bound nicely with the fragrance of green tea. The fruit seemed content to
stay behind the curtain. On the palate the red fruit came to light along
with a spicy herbaceous tone that echoed sage and thyme! A definite
crispness on the fairly lengthy finish
605774
CHAMBOURCIN RESERVE 2000 $ 14.00, Grape Tree Estate Wine.
This was my favourite of Grape Tree’s reds. Bolder flavours of red fruit
dominated the nose while the vegetal components, tomato and beet, lurked
in the background. The palate was fruit driven, stewed plum, cranberry,
strawberry and vanilla. There was a touch of gaminess as well as the fruit
in the finish.
609776 'HEXAGON' SPARKLING CUVÉE 2000 $ 16.00, Blanc de Blancs,
Grape Tree Estate Wines.
This demonstrates the alchemist’s contribution to winemaking by the six
grapes that are blended to create this bubbly. Riesling, Chardonnay, Pinot
Noir, Pinot Gris, Pinot Blanc and Viognier. The medium mousse allowed all
sorts of flavours to dance and tease the palate. It had citrus notes, tree
fruit, peach, apple and apricot. It finished with a pleasing toasty yeasty
note.
563460 PINOT GRIS 2000 $ 14.95, Niagara Peninsula, Vineland Estates.
Light pink straw tone with a touch of rust at the rim. Quite spritzy and
biting on the palate. Simple peach and floral flavours. Finished with a
tart dose of grapefruit. Needs food I think.
563361 SAUVIGNON BLANC 2000 $ 11.95,
Niagara Peninsula, Vineland Estates.
I did prefer this to the Pinot Gris. There was a little clamshell and
beeswax on the nose along with some pleasant peach and pear aromas. Good
medium body, although a little cloying. Not really a classic Sauvignon
style but well priced and pleasing.
946665 VIOGNIER 2000 $ 17.55, California, Ironstone Vineyards.
This exhibited a myriad of floral, vegetal and spice aromas. I found a hit
of ginger, cake spice, hazelnut, raw white mushrooms, peach and honey.
Everything seemed to have come together on the palate but all the fruit
was tucked away in the background. The finish was lengthy if a little
cloying.
727685
TORRONTES DE CAFAYATE 2000 $ 13.45, 'Coleccion Michel Torino',
Cafayate Valley, Bodega La Rosa/Michel Torino. Argentina.
Imagine the aromas created from mixing Muscat and bath oil together and
you would get something maybe close to the perfume from the nose of this
wine. There were strong aromas of sweet fruit, rose petals and spice.
Flavours of almond paste, peach, apricots and lime peel danced across my
tongue. The slight level of sweetness was only noticeable in the finish.
Good stuff!
427054 LATE HARVEST SAUVIGNON BLANC 1999 $ 12.75, Casablanca
Valley, Viña Errazuriz.
This was de-listed from the board’s regular stock and is now a Vintages
only wine. Too bad as it was always a decent staple for dessert. Well
balanced, good citrus based acidity, sweet flavours of tangerine, lime and
dried apricot.
744995 RIESLING SCHLOSSBERG 1999 $ 19.90, Grand
Cru Classé, Domaine André Blanck et Ses Fils.
I found this to be dull and somewhat lackluster but several of the others
present had much more favourable comments to make than I did.
955849 RULLY BLANC 1999 $ 26.40, Premier Cru, Joseph Drouhin.
The enticing nose of peach, pear, mineral, slate and spiced apple were not
detectable on the palate. All I found were the earthy elements and a hint
of tree fruit on the finish.
738864 CHÂTEAUNEUF-DU-PAPE BLANC 1999 $ 34.75, Clos du Roi',
Château Gigognan,
Lots of funky things happening in the glass with this wine. Slightly
bitter coffee grounds, Anjou pear, crab apple and licorice. The flavours
offered on the palate were equally as interesting. Full bodied, spicy,
solid fruit and pine cone. The finish lasted long, lingering with anise
and honey.
976803 ERBACHER HOHENRAIN 1990 $ 18.70, Riesling Spätlese,
Gutsabfüllung, Weingut Schloss Reinhartshausen.
A twelve-year-old Riesling at this price makes me highly suspicious.
Although the depth of the rich yellow green colour was absorbing, it was a
bit of a let down on the palate. A splash of baked apple, some mineral and
hints of oily petrol mouth feel was all this wine had left to offer. The
low level of acid left it dull and one-dimensional. The catalogue suggests
another five years of aging but IMHO, I really don’t see how that would
benefit this wine.
701631 CABERNET SAUVIGNON 1998 $ 74.90, 'The
Montelena Estate', Chateau Montelena.
Good intensity and depth of inky/ruby colour, nose was brimming with
layers of berry, chocolate and cherry cola. Mid palate had a wonderful
balance of firm acids, sweet chocolaty tannin, blackcurrant, plum and a
touch of leather. Finished long and creamy. It took time to open up and
display these qualities but it was worth the wait.
721415 CABERNET SAUVIGNON 1998 $ 74.65, Vineyard Georges III,
Rutherford, Napa Valley, Clos du Val.
Upfront this gave off some lovely currant and stewed fruit aromas. These
followed through on the palate but that was as far as they went. The fruit
on the finish fell quickly revealing some harsh tannins. Right now I would
pay the extra twenty five cents and buy the Montelena.
942136
SYRAH 1999 $ 29.80, Fess Parker Winery. California.
This was an "in your face" style of wine that had complexity and
character as well as incredible harmony and balance. The nose exhibited
roasted portabello mushrooms, leather, licorice, stewed plum, black cherry
and vanilla laced cappuccino. All these flavours echoed through the palate
and on into the opulent finish.
561811 ZINFANDEL 1999 $ 25.00, Sonoma County, Geyser Peak.
Not your regular run of the mill Zin but nonetheless it’s medium bodied
frame held flavours of lavender, cranberry and cassis. Zippy on the finish
with decent length
405605 ZINFANDEL 1998 $ 9.95, Baja
California, L.A. Cetto, Mexico.
Ouch, I liked the Petite Syrah from this producer from last months release
but this was just way too of the park for my tastes. Surprisingly light
bodied displaying hints of cooked berries, cola and white chocolate. The
finish had an earthy vegetal leafy essence that I did not relish.
744300 PINOT NOIR 2000 $ 16.95, Yarra
Valley, Victoria, Ironbark Wines. Oz.
Although this rich and savoury Pinot was a fruit bomb, it showed some
complexity and a little whiff of Aussie terroir. Aromas of blueberry jam,
plum, dark cherry and Asian spices. Solid and refreshing on the flavour
level and it finished clean but a bit chunky.
468637 'OLD VINE' 1998 $ 28.60, Shiraz/Grenache/Mourvèdre, Barossa
Valley, South Australia, Penfolds.
Quite a deep opaque purple colour. Whiffs of eucalyptus, blackberry,
cherry, herbs, sage and thyme on the nose. Thick and chewy mouth feel,
nice balance and spicy aniseed captured the finish.
959882 CHÂTEAU HAUT-SARPE 1998 $ 39.95, Saint-Émilion.
It has been a while since I have purchased a Bordeaux wine but this I will
not pas up. It was a deep ruby coloured bottle of wine that had all
classic tell tale aromas of blackcurrant, shoe polish, mineral, tobacco,
cedar and raspberry. It is tannic, as expected, but the chocolate/fruit
and spice flavours all showed well on the palate.
713693 BOURGOGNE 1999 $ 26.45, Hautes-Côtes de Nuits, A.-F. Gros.
If you want to introduce a friend to experience the taste sensation of
"la goute de terroir" this is the wine to use. To the novice its
sewer-centered soul may even prove offensive. Along with the barnyard
funk, aquarium, and forest floor traits lay aromas of plum, anise, cherry,
tobacco, beet and tomato. Excellent balance to this multidimensional,
medium bodied wine. Decent Pinot here for $26 and change.
966200 LADOIX 1998 $ 25.45, Joseph Drouhin.
This paled in comparison to A-F Gros’s offering but nonetheless it was a
pleasing, light bodied and graceful wine. Simple aromas of cherry,
medicinal candy, strawberry coulis and rhubarb. The mid palate fell flat
and the finish was light
722454 DOMAINE DE L'AURIS 1998 $ 14.30, Côtes du Roussillon.
This wine rendered my inner cheeks joined to one another. My friend Mark
Handleman, whose palate I respect most highly, suggested I do not pass
this one up. I suspect Mark had tried it much earlier in the day because
when I got to it, It had totally shut down. Through the mask of coffee,
charcoal, walnut shell and inky tannin, I could smell some pleasant plum,
cherry and berry fruit. The finish was big with mostly pepper and dark
bitter chocolate.
738054 DOMAINE LE COUROULU 1998 $ 18.50, Cuvée Classique',
Vacqueyras.
I missed this one on the table but from my understanding, it will be worth
buying.
981787 GIGONDAS 1999 $ 25.90, Domaine
du Grapillon d'Or.
It is not surprising this was not shipped to London to taste. It usually
has a brief resting period of maybe two minutes on the shelves once the
stores open on release day. Based on previous experience, If you find
some, buy it.
733634 COPERTINO 1998 $ 10.85, Riserva,
Viti. Francesco Colucci, Puglia.
Lots of interesting aromas to the nose for the price, roasted beet, thyme,
cloves, pepper, blueberry and ripe red
fruit. A little clumsy in the mouth but a great wine for
summer afternoon barbeques.
947440 'CENTINE' 1999 $ 16.80, Toscana,
Banfi.
Another great QPR wine that exploded with aromas of cassis, licorice,
blackberries and damson. On the tongue it was creamy and rich. The finish
was equally paralleled.
937714 'DON JACOBO' 1998 $ 14.95, Rioja
DOC, Bodegas Corral, Rioja, Bodegas Corral.
A light brick colour that was already showing its age at the edge, very
herbaceous, smelt like a dill pickle actually. Flavours of chocolate and
diluted cherry brandy.
725762 'EL ALBAR' 1998 $ 19.90, Toro DO, Bodega J. & F. Lurton,
S.A.
Last but certainly not least this wine deserves an honorable mention. Its
dark colour suggested it is a power packed wine and it was. The nose was
leathery, dusty and full of chocolate, raspberry and black fruits that
were solid right across the palate and into the long finish.
Cheers,
CZ
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