Alan’s September 1, 2007 Vintages Release Tasting Notes

I am sure this statement has passed many people’s lips in recent days, but where the hell has the summer gone?

There were so many sun friendly wines I wanted to drink, but alas the end is nigh. Having said that, the weather is still hot, tomatoes still hang on their vines and although shorter, warm evenings around the patio table are still to be enjoyed. Wine and tomato salad can be a beautiful thing.

The Niagara region over the summer has been subjected to one brutal drought. As I drive through the vineyards I see vines with dried out crumpled leaves and tiny clusters of dark berry fruit. I wonder what the resulting wines will be like. Although the quantity will be considerably lower, the quality should be first rate. I had the same thoughts a year ago when I made the move down to Niagara. The rains that fell on the Labour Day weekend last year stuck around for weeks. Nonetheless, I have tasted a couple of 06 whites and they were tasty. I am eager to see what the wines from this torrid vintage will possess.

As for wines already in a bottle, September 1st, brings an array of Pinot onto the shelves some of which will be fine fare for the last of the summer barbeques.

43331 ALBERT BICHOT PINOT NOIR BOURGOGNE VIEILLES VIGNES 2005, Burgundy $18.95
Not off to a great start as this acidy and lackluster wine comes across more in the guise of Gamay than a Pinot. It shows notes of plum, a little berry and some earthy tones, but the palate is all acid and cherry. The finish is rather astringent. Best left alone. Find this wine
 

43240 BOUCHARD PÈRE ET FILS VOLNAY CAILLERETS ANCIENNE CUVÉE CARNOT 1er CRU 2005, Burgundy $86.95
Much, much, much better, but an increase in quality creates a significant increase in price. I find hints of bacon, floral notes, perfume, and dark ripe fruit, all following through to a rich and balanced palate loaded with velvety fruit, roasted beet and the right amount of back fruit acid. Find this wine
 

993063 JOSEPH DROUHIN GEVREY-CHAMBERTIN 2005 Burgundy $61.95
Quite densely coloured, showing lively black raspberry fruit, milk chocolate and mineral. It has a full rich palate, it is tightly wound and will need a couple of years to show its best. This is a well-made wine especially given its village appellation. Wait a moment though, sixty bucks plus for a Village appellation wine is a bit steep, don’t you think?
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661298 PIERRE LABET BEAUNE CLOS DU DESSUS DES MARCONNETS 2005 Burgundy $42.95
Labet offers the best bet in the price/quality ratio for the Burgundy Pinot in this release. This shows great structure with plenty of perfumed sweet fruit, dried mushroom and thyme. The palate has layers of concentrated plum and cherry and the finish brings together the fruit, the essence of the terroir and the right amount of kick. Find this wine

918151 CARNEROS CREEK PINOT NOIR RESERVE 2005 Carneros, California $29.95
A power packed punch of raspberry, black cherry and vanilla. It is full on the palate, yet it manages to retain its complexity quite nicely. The tannins are dusty and non evasive, but within a year or two, it will mellow out well and show its best. Find this wine

943225 KENWOOD PINOT NOIR 2005 Russian River Valley, Sonoma County, California $20.95
Sweet and candy like nose that leads to a palate of plum, liquorish root, and sweet cherry. It has a finish of creamy mocha. Not as impressive as I had hoped as I often enjoy wines from this producer.
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586115 HUNTER'S PINOT NOIR 2006 Jane Hunter, Marlborough, South Island, New Zealand $22.95
A pleasing combination of black raspberry, cherry and oyster mushroom on the nose that opens up on the palate to reveal a sweeter note of blueberry and red cherry. I like the flavours, but for me I would prefer a touch more acid to combat the cloying note on the finish. Find this wine

586099 SHEPHERDS RIDGE VINEYARD PINOT NOIR 2004
Keepers of Tradition, Marlborough, South Island, New Zealand $24.95
Cleary the most interesting nose of the pinot line up, showing aromas of cured meat, almond, red currant, cherry and arugula. The red fruits control the palate, the acids are in tune and the nut component is evident again on the finish. Find this wine

40568 WEINGUT DR. UNGER PINOT NOIR GÖTTWEIGER BERG CLASSIC 2005, Austria $21.95
I do like Austrians. I spent the best part of a winter in Vienna during my teens downing Krugel after Krugel of fine Biers, but Austrian Pinot has never won me over and this one will not change my opinion. It has a medicinal nose of dried mint and red berry. There is a syrupy texture to the palate that carries no depth whatsoever. It simply is not for me.
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40824 HELVETICA PINOT NOIR 2006 Switzerland $19.95
Now having said that, I must confess to never being the first in line to procure a bottle of wine from Switzerland, but this bottle is a pleasant surprise. It is not by any means a blockbuster, yet it shows a pleasing earthy/mineral note, plenty of dark fruit and underbrush on the nose. Its mouth feel is fruit laden and creamy leaving a lovely streak of black fruit to the finish. Certainly not what I would classify as a neutral wine. Find this wine

988568 YARRA RIDGE PINOT NOIR 2005, Yarra Valley, Victoria, Australia $19.95
Notes of cedar, red fruit and leather with plenty of sweet fruit and maraschino cherry. It has some decent fruit flavours on the palate and nice black fruit acids, but carries little else to entice. Find this wine

1545 FLAT ROCK PINOT NOIR 2005, Twenty Mile Bench, Niagara $19.95
I enjoy this wine, not because it is a powerhouse, but because it is true to form showing both elegance and balance. It has the character of a light styled Burgundy in both its flavour and structure profile. There are pretty aromas of cherry, strawberry and plum with earthy notes in the background and just the right amount of acidity. Find this wine


41343 DUCKHORN VINEYARDS DECOY 2005 Napa Valley $41.95
A well made Meritage that consists of 45% Cabernet Sauvignon, 36% Merlot, 11% Cabernet Franc, and 8% Petit Verdot. There is a dense layer of fruit with plenty of vanilla and coffee notes on the nose. Tannins are noticeable on the palate, but they do not interrupt or overshadow the nice combination of fruit and acid. Find this wine

655878 QUPÉ SYRAH 2005 Central Coast, California $24.95
The notes of earth, mineral, pig poo and powerful dark fruit puts this wine on my list of bottles to buy. The palate is full of black cherry and black berry fruit with a kick of mineral and prefect acidity. Find this wine

39982 ZIG ZAG ZIN ZINFANDEL 2004 Mendocino, California $19.95
The aromas of coffee, coal dust, and black fruit show up on the palate, but soon turn to sour cherry, plastic and wood. The finish is nasty, with little fruit and just astringent notes of alcohol and wood. This is not what quality Mendocino Zin tastes like. Find this wine

606905 EVANS & TATE SHIRAZ 2003, Margaret River, Western Australia $19.95
Despite the overwhelming nose of caramel, mint, toffee and coconut, the palate shows nice notes of black fruit, mineral and eucalyptus flavours. All is well until the creamy/over the top finish drives in. Not a bad wine, just not my style. Find this wine


39552 EPSILON SHIRAZ 2005 Barossa Valley, South Australia $26.95
Could the dark and opaque color of this wine be the first clue that it is a monster? It is full bodied, with the right amount of toasty oak, some molasses, dark ripe fruit and vibrant acidity. I believe it is a little disjointed right now, but come Saturday night, after it has sat in my decanter for a few hours, I expect great things to happen. Find this wine

951079 CALINA CARMENÈRE RESERVA 2005 Maule Valley, Chile $16.95
Dried tangerine peel, damson and mocha on the nose, lots of vibrant sweet fruit on the palate and a finish that leaves me wanting more acidity.
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652651 BACKSBERG PUMPHOUSE SHIRAZ 2004, Paarl South Africa $20.95
Good grief! I note layer after layer of tar, coal and mineral with a backdrop of dark fruit and plum. This is a full-bodied wine that is tannic, fruit laden and echoes mineral and iron on the finish. I like it; it is different and it might turn out to be a gem in a few years down the road. Find this wine

51383 JOSEPH DROUHIN PULIGNY-MONTRACHET, Burgundy 2005 $64.95
A quintessential nose of white Burgundy exhibiting mineral, baked pear citrus, white tree fruit and wet stone. Well structured and drinking nicely now. Find this wine

41780 SIMONNET-FEBVRE CHABLIS 2005 $19.95
A screw top bottle of Chablis that features a nose of oyster shell, lemon grass and apple. It has good fruit, plenty of mineral tones and crisp acidity. Hey at this price, this is decent Chardonnay. Find this wine

35444 TONON ROSSO DEL CAMÚL BARRIQUE 2003, Veneto $22.95
Burgundy meets Bordeaux in this blend of Cabernet Sauvignon and Pinot Nero (aka Pinot Noir). It has a layer of spice, bell pepper, pinecone, tobacco and underbrush followed by a healthy dose of dark fruit. The palate focuses on the fruit and brings in a hit of dark chocolate and cocoa. It is a decent wine that would be so much better if the acid level was a trifle more discernable.
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977421 MONSANTO CHIANTI CLASSICO 2004 $23.95
A lively nose of tar, spice, star anise and red fruit. The palate has nuances of red cherry cranberry and cola. It is pleasing, except I think the nose has that “the chase is better than the kill” factor. Find this wine

664763 VALLE DE SALINAS CRIANZA 2003 Yecla, Spain $17.95
How nicely this mix of dusty fruit, straw, tar, cocoa and olive comes together in the glass. Again the palate seems lighter than the nose suggests, yet it is still tasty. The finish shows a touch of heat and the tannins make their presence known. Maybe a year or so in the cellar might be in order.
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Cheers
CZ

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