Wine and food classOne of several reasons I chose to move from Fanshawe College to the Niagara Culinary Institute is my new employer's commitment to educating their culinary students about food and wine. Advanced level students spend three hours a week in a course called 'Wine and Food Dynamics.'  Initially students learn the fundamentals of wine making, and then week by week they look at specific regions and study the terroir, the origins of varietals, and the rules, regulations and wine making styles of the area in question.


More importantly, these budding young culinarians get to sample wines from the region in question, record their observations, and then taste the wine again - only this time with foods indigenous to the area.

Feedback from students on this course is amazing. There is always a buzz in the room. Students show a genuine interest in participating, especially when given the opportunity to observe for themselves the changes in the flavour profile when the components of each wine they sample interact with food. There is no better way to learn the intricacies of balancing the weight and flavours of food and wine than experiencing it first hand.

Here are a few notes on wines from Veneto and Tuscany poured in class last week. Students tasted their wines with Gorgonzola and Grana Padano cheese plus a steaming hot bowl of hearty venison stew.

LE POIANE' VALPOLICELLA CLASSICO SUPERIORE135293 'LE POIANE' VALPOLICELLA CLASSICO SUPERIORE, VENETO, 2001 FRATELLI BOLLA $19.95
The glass exhibits a medium ruby robe that is starting to show a rusty hue at the rim. Some initial burnt match notes on the nose along with forest leaves, underbrush and a layer of stewed dark fruit. There is fruit on the palate, but it dries out quickly, resulting in a high degree of tartness and old dank wood flavours on the finish.  Find this wine

986117 QUINTARELLI VALPOLICELLA CLASSICO SUPERIORE, VENETO, 1998 $71.95
The colour is holding well, it shows good depth and a faint sign of aging at the edge. The nose is still quite tight, but it offers a hint of sweetness and earth. I find a mid palate of black cherry, raspberry, velvety couverture and a pinch of clove. Just a hint of sweetness offsets the fine level of acidity nicely. Not a long finish, a little dusty still, yet pleasing.  Find this wine

RIPASSO VALPOLICELLA, CLASSICO SUPERIORE
RIPASSO VALPOLICELLA, CLASSICO SUPERIORE, LUIGI RIGHETTI, VENETO, 2003 $17.95

This shows a full rich and sweet nose of boiled sugar candy, violet, blueberry and damson. Although tannin is presently the number one component, a layer of milky dark fruit, sweet cherry and a streak of fine acidity lurks close behind. The fruit does not show well on the mid palate, but the finish is tasty.  Find this wine

 

FARINA AMARONE DELLA VALPOLICELLA CLASSICO
995910 FARINA AMARONE DELLA VALPOLICELLA CLASSICO, VENETO 2001 $34.95

A deep ruby garnet coloured wine that is still showing shades of purple on the rim. It has a spicy nose of balsa, pepper, prune, beet and anise. The palate shows a lovely combination of plum, damson and tart blackcurrant. The degree of tannin on the finish suggests this wine is years from its peak. However, a little Gorgonzola does do wonders! Find this wine


RECIOTO DELLA VALPOLICELLA CLASSICO 1995932343 RECIOTO DELLA VALPOLICELLA CLASSICO 1995 QUINTARELLI, VENETO, $189.00 (375 ml) 
Perhaps the sweet port like aromas stem from the botrysized Corvina grapes, part of the blend used to create this seductive glass of hedonistic pleasure. It is truly a gem.
Giuseppe Quintarelli’s fruit for Amarone is left to dry out after harvest on rush mats until January. Following a forty-five day fermentation, the wine rests in Slovenian oak for up to seven years, often re-fermenting with the onset of the summer’s warmer temperatures. This vintage shows aromas of milk chocolate, black raspberry, cardamom, lavender and black liquorish toffee. The palate is deliciously sweet, but not overly so; the fruit is now likening to a glistening pool of black raspberry and blackcurrant coulis. The acidity is at the perfect degree to sharpen the edge of the lengthy finish.  Find this wine

ROCCA DELLE MACIE CHIANTI CLASSICO, TUSCANY, 2004 $29.95 (1500 ml)
A medium bodied purple robe with a nose that shows some floral notes, a touch of anise, thyme and cherry. It has plenty of fruit on the palate, the acids are lively, but not so as to distract. Clean finish, nice stuff.  Find this wine

938258 PRUNATELLI CHIANTI RUFINA RISERVA, TUSCANY, 2003 $16.95 
More earthiness, tobacco and barnyard manure than fruit although blackberry is making its way to the top. It has a lovely mid palate, with creamy red currant, blackberry, and a little tannin on the finish. I good price for this quality. Find this wine

928028 BRUNELLO DI MONTALCINO FATTORIA BARBI, TUSCANY 2000 $39.95
It will be years before this dark dense puppy comes around. The nose is exceptionally fragrant (open three hours), showing layers of red fruit, mineral, nutshell, dried Chinese mushroom and cedar. The primary flavour is pure red fruit; the secondary flavours are tightly wound and need time to develop. It is lighter on the mid palate than I would like; there are notes of plum and red fruit acid on the finish along with dusty milk chocolate tannin.  Find this wine

994095 ALTESINO BRUNELLO DI MONTALCINO, TUSCANY 2001 $49.00
Not a fan. The nose is closed except for some sweet red fruit, cedar and cured meat. I like the way the mid palate shows; it is elegant with flavours of red currant and rhubarb, but there is too much leafy astringent tannin on the finish for my taste. Find this wine

378257 BANFI BRUNELLO DI MONTALCINO 378257 2001 $58.95
Judging from the density of the colour, this wine shows no sign of aging whatsoever. The nose exudes pure sweet fruit aromas, some wild mushroom, vanilla and a faint hint of earthy truffle. The palate is youthful and tight, but full of promise.  Find this wine

Cheers,

CZ

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