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Unfortunately I was not able to
make the Vintages tasting for this
month due to my fulltime employment. It takes priority. I did however,
manage to head west to Cleveland and take advantage of an invitation
from the household of
Larry Meehan and family
to enjoy a glass of wine or two and some deftly prepared culinary
treats.
About a dozen or so of Larry’s close friends showed up and low and
behold, corks were popping and the merriment began. I scribbled down a
few notes on most of the wines we tasted.
Granite
de Clisson, Muscadet, Loire valley 2005
Generally I don’t drink Muscadet. There is little to find at the LCBO
and what the board does carry is high in acid and rather lackluster.
Granite de Clisson is a total turnaround. The nose is full of appealing
aromas of almond butter, guava, un-ripe honeydew and Meyer lemon. The
degree of acid is lower than I expect, the palate is full and very
tasty. Find this wine
Domaine
Mussy, Pommard, Premier Cru, Burgundy 1990
I picked this up at Century Liquor
in Rochester soon after the “greatest vintage ever” in Burgundy, hit the
shelves. I think this was the right time to open it. I believe it to be
at its best. Larry commented it is beautiful now, but it might not be in
an hour. The wine shows that seductive looking brick red hue of an aged
wine with just a touch of amber showing at the rim. The nose touts hay,
a touch of leather, red fruit, sweet perfumed Moroccan spice, a shave of
milk chocolate and a whiff of smoked meat. It is silky and sweet on the
palate with a touch of drying fruit on the finish. Glad I opened it when
I did!
Find this wine
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Le
Clos Jordanne Village Reserve, Niagara, Ontario 2004
Clos Jordanne is a Niagara wine receiving kudos from critics across the
continent. The wine is made by a union of Domaine Boisset of Burgundy
and the mighty Vincor Corporation of Canada. Vincor, now owned by
Constellation Brands, already has names such as Inniskillin, Jackson-Triggs,
Sumac Ridge and Nk' Mip from Okanagan Valley, R. H. Phillips from
California, Hogue Cellars from Washington and Western Australia’s
Goundrey as part of their portfolio. Jordan is a small town in the heart
of Niagara’s Beamsville Bench. Clos Jordanne only produces Pinot Noir
and Chardonnay. These wines are marketed in Burgundy fashion. Their
flagship wine is the “Grand Clos” a blend of the absolute finest barrels
crafted by winemaker Thomas Bachelder. Find this wine
Next come three single vineyard offerings, similar to status of
Burgundy’s Premier Cru wines. The vineyards are Le Clos Jordanne
Vineyard, Claystone Terrace and La Petite Vineyard.
To finish, any wine that did not find its way into any of the latter
offerings ends up as a blend with fruit from the Talon Ridge Vineyard to
create a cuvee known as “Village Reserve”.
The first whiff exhibits Pinot true to its character with lively red
currant, a layer of pure strawberry, notes of mineral, plum and nutmeg.
The palate has a silky texture, oak is notable on the finish, but not
enough to stifle the fruit. This wine has a $25.00 price tag and it is
worth every cent.
Clos Jordanne is
tough to find. As there is no tasting room at the winery, LCBO
regulations forbid on site sales. There is a release scheduled for the
end of November in Vintages, but don’t expect these wines to stick
around long as the previous allotment sold literally within minutes of
release.
Chave
St Joseph, Rhone Valley 1996
I just love that smoky blast of sweet spice and violets that older Rhone
wines throw out. This wine is a treat. The only time I drink Chave is
with Larry and I see why he loves them so much. The plum fruit and
toffee flavours run across the palate. Its finish is full of fruit and
black salty liquorish. The acidity is quite brilliant. Maybe this could
go a while longer, but I for one am glad it didn’t. Find this wine
Laurel Glen, Sonoma Cabernet Sauvignon 1991
Laurel Glen brings back great memories for me. It is one of the first
Californian cabs I drank years ago that impressed me the spot. This
sweet sixteen year old still has plenty of life in her, showing sweet
fruit, green tea, vanilla, dried mint, cola, coconut shell and
blackberries. The palate grips with chalky tannins, blackcurrant,
blackberry and mint. Find this wine
Cote Rotie Les Grandes Places, Jean Michel Gerin 1996
The nose is nice, full of sweet liquorish, aniseed, tar, beet and earthy
smells. It grips the teeth, has good solid fruit, but still needs time.
The finish shows a little heat. Find this wine
Domain Tempier, Bandol 1995
So inky, so black, so bloody tasty. The flavours of pure black fruit,
toffee, treacle and plum are wild. Its finish shows all the fruit plus a
hit of dried sage and thyme. Find this wine
Hermitage M Sorrel, Rhone Valley 1998
Earthy notes with lavender and cigar leaf. A great concentration of dark
fruit runs across the palate. A dry woody note appears on the finish. Find this wine
Carnival
of Love, Sarah and Sparky Marquis, Mollydooker, McLaren Vale, South
Australia 2005
This is the anti Christ of wine, a phenolic syrupy monster full of
coconut oil, espresso bean, cough medicine, well hung meat and blueberry
essence. The palate is possibly one of the most over extracted wines I
have ever tried. Never mind the glass, a knife and fork would be more
appropriate. It is a pure fruit bomb, with a twist of black pepper that
coats the mouth and doesn’t leave. There is no sign of any tannin other
than the whack of cedar it deposits on the back of the throat. Will it
age? Who knows? I feel privileged to be able to taste this wine.
Although I am not sure what style of wine this is, I think it belongs in
a category all by itself. Find this wine
Forman, Napa Valley, Cabernet Sauvignon 1991
Holding well, showing good Napa currant fruit, lead pencil, with clingy
tannins and dried mint. Nice wine, save for the note of plum skin
astringency on finish.
Find this wine
El
Nido, Clio Jumilla, Spain 2004
Oak spread with blackcurrant jam, spice and smoked maple cured bacon. Is
this breakfast or a glass of wine? It has a fleshy palate with a full
flavour profile that is masked by the dark and discernable tannins. Very
tight, but good things will come to those that wait. Find this wine
Barolo
Giacomo Conterno, Cascina, Franciao, 1997
No doubt, I see the light; this is what great Barolo is all about. The
nose of black toffee, creamy oak, porcini mushroom, lavender and dark
chocolate is stunning. And then there is the fruit, still youthful with
great concentration. One of my new colleagues loves Barolo and I can see
why. Find this wine
Ojai Santa Barbara Syrah White Hawk Vineyard 2001
For some reason I expected another over blown monster, but not with this
wine. It has a creamy oak note. Mint and Thai basil aromas combine with
elegant layers of red and black fruit. It is creamy and chewy on the
palate with a nice streak of acidity keeping it in tune. Find this wine
Jaffurs
Syrah, Lasser Vineyard, Santa Barbara 2003
This is quite the mouthful, a bit hot, with some earthy notes of clay,
iron and lots of tannin. There is fruit, but only time will release it.
Larry’s array of grilled strip loin and tri tip cut through the tannins
like an ice breaker churns up Hudson Bay on a bitterly cold winter’s
day. The vegetarian Cassoulet was lovely and salads were a treat. Find this wine
Cheers
CZ
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