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SEMINAR HYPERLINKS
"Grenache: Down Under & Up & Over,
by Bruce Leiserowitz
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By califusa NINE POPES RETROSPECTIVE Charlie Melton (left) began his winemaking career in the Barossa in the early 70’s as apprentice to Peter Lehmann. He set out on his own in 1984, and joined a small group of like-minded winemakers who wanted to revive the “undervalued” varietals of Grenache and Shiraz. Nine
Popes is a blend based on the three major southern Rhone
varietals: Grenache, Shiraz and Mourvedre. All three varietals are dry
farmed in the Barossa Valley – home to the world’s oldest Shiraz
vineyards. These vineyards survived the Phylloxera epidemic of the
1800’s because of a farsighted quarantine policy. Some of these old vines date back to the first days of Barossa settlements in the 1840’s. Today, Barossa vignerons are the sixth generation custodians of these old dry grown vines. “Whilst our wine started out using Châteauneuf-du-Pape as its model, it has evolved into Australia’s leading “Rhone style” blend. The Grenache perfume and Shiraz spice combine to produce a complex style that will take on lovely sweet/spice characters with age. The intensity of flavors on the palate, which is the hallmark of Nine Popes, comes from the extraordinarily low yields of our Grenache. With patience, Nine Popes will evolve into a rich smooth style of great longevity.” (from seminar handout) TASTING NOTES 1995
Nine Popes - some dusty spice and sweet Grenache fruit in the
nose - fairly smooth entry - moderate and smooth tannins in the
mid-palate - the wine has great structure - rather pleasing, but I would
like to see a bit more intensity to balance the structure of the wine. 1996
Nine Popes - more noticeable alcohol in the nose - more dense
color - smoother on the palate - more intensity than the 95 - a very
pretty flavor palate - wonderful spice and good balance. 1997
Nine Popes from magnum - a little bit more sweetness in the
aromatics - again, a nicely structured and well-balanced wine - shows
good spice and fruit on the palate - some tannins that need to resolve
and integrate a bit. So far, I think all of these wines are at least
five years away from maturity. 1998
Nine Popes - again, the signatures sweetness in the aromatics
that Charlie Melton spoke about cultivating in the winemaking process -
perhaps the most accessible of the vintages I have tasted so far - shows
very smooth and elegant Grenache fruit upfront - a nice balance with
spice - some long chain tannins that are well polished and glide easily
across the palate - this is really a very lovely wine. 2000 Nine Popes - very dense color from this barrel sample - purple robe that stains the glass - of intellectual interest only, since the wine is still rather clunky and disjointed - has a very nice weight and intensity in the mouth, but aside from that is very difficult to judge.
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