ZAP
98
Notes from the Mosh Pit
by califusa, Left Coast Correspondent to the Gang of
Pour
24 January 1998, San Francisco
Part III
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Ravenswood's
Joel Peterson |
1995 Wood Road -
Belloni - in bottle and released. Just delicious - what we've come to expect from
this property in the Fulton area of Sonoma County. Like all of the Ravenswood Vineyard
Designates, this one needs a bit of time to come around. Good intensity of forward fruit,
healthy core of acid, very pretty flavors, and should do well with a little time in
bottle.
1996 Monte Rosso -
Surprisingly forward fruit in the nose for this property, with very sweet aromas - more
characteristic of a Sonoma Valley property than a mountain property. This is the second
1996 from Monte Rosso that has been amazingly well balanced. Wines from this property are
usually known for their tight and tannic structure (Monster Rosso). Absolutely delicious
fruit flavors in the mouth, with moderate but very well controlled tannins, and nicely
balanced with oak, this wine promises to be a real beauty!
1992 Sonoma Old Vines from magnum - This is a delightful
example of Joel's Old Vine Zinfandel. It's aged perfectly, and is drinking wonderfully
right now, but has the structure to age a bit longer. Those of you who have this in your
cellar may want to open a bottle or two now - this is an excellent food wine.
1996 Pezzi-King - Dry Creek Valley - a worthy successor to
their highly sought-after 95,
generous flavors of classic Dry Creek Zin. This wine is in bottle now - it will be hard to
resist it's immediate appeal.
1996 Preston Vineyards Estate - Old Vine Clones, Unfined,
Unfiltered - This is exactly what I have come to expect from this highly underrated Dry
Creek producer. Their wines typically and consistently show great balance, and lovely
fruit. This wine is no exception. It has wonderful balance and immediate appeal - and for
those of you looking for a moderately priced, ready to drink Zinfandel, this wine will not
disappoint you.
1990 Estate - (I hosted a tasting of 16 Sonoma Zinfandels
from the 1990 vintage a couple of years ago, and this wine was the overall favorite of the
tasting.) Slightly oxidized and over-ripe nose, still has nice fruit flavors, but is
starting to fall out of balance - surely not the wine it was 2-3 years ago.
St. Francis 1996 Old Vines - A portion of this fruit comes
from the Pagani Ranch. A lot of vanilla and oak in the nose - that follow through on the
palate. Now, I may be wrong, but personally, I think it's a shame to take this gorgeous
fruit and virtually obscure it with new oak.
1996 Pagani Reserve- well, this is a bit reassuring - more
fruit, and less oak, although still lavishly oaky, at least it allows some of that
wonderful Pagani fruit to show through - but I'm afraid the wine still lacks balance, and
these two wines are a big disappointment.
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Dashe Cellars
Anne Dashe |
1996 Dashe Dry Creek
- This is the debut release from this talented husband and wife winemaking team.
The fruit comes from the east side of the valley, just north of the Teldesci vineyards.
Beautiful Dry Creek fruit in the nose, very pretty on the palate, with a good backbone of
acid and oak in good proportion. It's a very nicely balanced wine, and I look forward to
tasting it when it's released. A very clear expression of Dry Creek Zin.
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Jerry Sepps |
1996 Estate Reserve - alas! A bit of funk in the nose,
but the beautifully focused intensity of this wine can not be denied. Give it ten years,
or more.
1996 Storrs Lion Oaks - Santa Cruz Mountains - Thanks to the
education and notes from Milan and Jason, I'm becoming more of a fan of Santa Cruz
Mountain wines. I've tasted Storrs' wines in the past, and I've found them to be a bit
uneven. This 96 has beautifully dense color, a lovely intensity of fruit, and good
balance. Just a hint of overripe fruit, or char from oak, but nevertheless, a wine to
watch.
Saucelito Canyon 1996 - March release - This winery was one
of my very favorites from last year's tasting, and this offering is equally impressive,
and clearly in the top five of my limited samplings today. Great intensity of Zinfandel
fruit; with a touch of pepper, briar, and spice; all in good balance. This little known
winery is doing a bang-up job with Zinfandel, and this is a wine to seek out and purchase.
1996 Late Harvest - Arroyo Grande Valley - delightful
intensity of Zinberry fruit in the nose, reminiscent of the Essences from Ridge, and with
a hint of chalk that I find very appealing. However, on the palate there is more sugar
than fruit - not terribly disappointing, but not as successful as other wines in the
genre. Stick with their regular bottling - and let me know what time to be over for
dinner.
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Larry
Turley |
1996 Turley Hayne
Vineyard - Surprisingly restrained, but well balanced fruit in the nose, not the
overblown, overripe style these folks are sometimes faulted for. Lots of power on the
palate, and a healthy dose of oak. Less alcoholic than last year - (a kinder, gentler
Turley?) I look forward to their barrel tasting this spring - we'll take some photos
and notes then. They usually taste across the entire line - this year there will be 7
Zins.
1996 Morgan Grist Vineyard
- very pretty Dry Creek fruit in the nose, follows on the palate in good balance - the
tannins are a little prominent, but I expect them to even out as the wine gains a little
bottle age. A highly recommended wine that should pair nicely with a wide range of foods.
Unfortunately only 150 cases produced.
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Jason Brandt Lewis holding a glass of - WHAT? - Chardonnay ?!?!?
TASTING NOTES ON:
Ravenswood Winery:
1995 Wood Road - Belloni
1996 Monte Rosso
1992 Sonoma Old Vines
1996 Pezzi-King - Dry Creek Valley
Preston Vineyards:
1996 Estate - Old Vine Clones, Unfined, Unfiltered
1990 Estate
St. Francis:
1996 Old Vines
1996 Pagani Reserve
1996 Dashe Cellars Dry Creek
Storybook Mountain 1996 Estate Reserve
1996 Storrs Lion Oaks - Santa Cruz Mountains
1996 Saucelito Canyon
1996 Late Harvest - Arroyo Grande Valley
1996 Turley Hayne Vineyard
1996 Morgan Grist Vineyard
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