ZAP 98
Notes from the Mosh Pit
by califusa, Left Coast Correspondent to the Gang of Pour
24 January 1998, San Francisco
Part IV

Julie Martinelli	Peachy Canyon's Doug Beckett

1996 Martinelli Jackass Vineyard - surprising herb and vegetal notes in the nose, beautiful intensity of fruit - perhaps not the 'blockbusters' the 94 and 95 were - but still a delicious and intense wine. Unfortunately the Jackass Hill was not offered today.

Peachy Canyon - 1996  Especial - Paso Robles from Dusi fruit - shows a lovely violet hue in the glass - a bit shy in the nose. Good concentration in the mouth with the peppery spice that is typical of this vineyard. Great structure, and this will be a beauty, given a little time.

Steele - 1995  DuPratt Vineyard - Overtones of roast coffee and cocoa, with beautiful broad and intense Zinberry fruit across the palate.

Steele - 1996 DuPratt - likewise dense color, hints of vanilla and oak in the nose, but very much in balance. Downright delicious and approachable Zinfandel. I look forward to the release of this one - it's a real stunner!

Peterson - 1995 Dry Creek - Another quintessential Dry Creek Valley Zinfandel. This particular bottle had just a touch of corkiness that fortunately did not interfere with the pure Zinfandel flavors.

Peterson - 1996 Dry Creek Valley - already in bottle. Pleasant vegetal and herbal nuances in the nose - not at all unpleasant, even though a little more than you would expect from Dry Creek Zin. There's more concentration in the mouth than the 95 - very nicely balanced - good acid and tannin structure that ensures, at least, mid range aging. Very nice wine.

Peterson - 1995 Bradford Mountain - Very impressive nose - intense mountainside Zin fruit that follows through on the palate with a not unpleasant briary characteristic that I've come to expect from this property. A strong acid and tannin backbone that suggests this will be a wine that will age well for the medium term, and perhaps longer. A strong showing from Fred Peterson!

No tasting would be complete without the delightful folks from Meeker who have the unique tasting room in a teepee.

Meeker - 1996 Dry Creek Valley - the sample I tasted was from American Oak. In the past, these folks have been a little uneven, and some of their offerings from the early 90's require a significant amount of bottle time to show their best stuff. Their Zinfandels from more recent years have become more approachable when young, and this 1996 is really an accessible wine, and should be quite drinkable when it is released. Somewhat restrained Dry Creek fruit in the nose, well balanced Zinberry flavors across the palate, with a lash of oak and tannin that suggests further improvement over the next five years or so.

Roger Rosenblum

Rosenblum - 1996 Harris-Kratka - this property is owned by Marshall Harris and Cheri Kratka - very active ZAP volunteers, and great folks to enjoy a glass of wine with. The nose in this wine is a little shy, showing nuance of oak and dark berry fruits. The flavors broaden a bit on the palate - with good balance of black fruit flavors, a healthy dose of oak, and good tannic structure. Looks like another good effort from this vineyard.

Rosenblum - 1996 Maggie's Reserve from the Samsel Vineyard - Sonoma Valley - likewise restrained nose, but showing less oak than the previous wine, but more forward fruit across the palate. A very good balance of black cherry and currant flavors, and well balanced oak, acid, and tannin. An excellent showing.

Rosenblum - 1996 Rhodes Vineyard - Lovely sweeping cherry fruit in the nose, with delightful sweet cherry fruit flavors in the mouth. The usual lash of toasty oak I anticipate from Kent's wines - The most appealing of the three I've tasted.

D-cubed Cellars 1996 Napa Valley - Very pretty smokey aromas, typically Napa fruit on the palate in good concentration with just a touch of oak (I enjoyed this balance).

D-cubed Cellars 1996 Howell Mountain - Even more dense in color, very characteristic Howell Mountain fruit and briar in the nose. Tight and tannic in the mouth, giving little indication of where this wine will evolve. Judgement reserved.

Tria 1996 Dry Creek - from the Grist Vineyard on Bradford Mountain, and the Norton Ranch (now controlled by Ridge Vineyards). Very pretty Dry Creek Zinberry nose, with lovely intensity and balance on the palate. Just enough tannin to ensure good structure, and a very clean finish. A surprisingly delicious wine from this little known producer.

Tria 1996 Napa Valley - from the Aldo Biale Vineyard in Napa,
(I've often wondered who was lucky enough to purchase this great fruit!) and from the Beaulieu Vineyard - St. Helena Ranch. These are older, head-trained vines. Production 1000 cases. There is a hint of that wonderful, sweet and forward fruit (that typifies the Aldo's Reserve from Biale) in the nose of this wine. In the mouth, the flavors are full, and very seductive. The wine needs a little bit of time to smooth out, but promises to be a real winner!

TASTING NOTES ON:

1996 Martinelli Jackass Vineyard

1996 Peachy Canyon Especial - Paso Robles

Steele:
  1995 DuPratt Vineyard
  1996 DuPratt

Peterson:
  1995 Dry Creek
  1996 Dry Creek Valley
  1995 Bradford Mountain

1996 Meeker Vineyard:    Dry Creek Valley

Rosenblum Cellars:
  1996 Harris-Kratka
  1996 Samsel Vineyard, Maggie's Reserve
  1996 Rhodes Vineyard

D-cubed Cellars:
  1996 Napa Valley
  1996 Howell Mountain

Tria:
  1996 Dry Creek
  1996 Napa Valley