Gang of Pour - Left Coast Correspondent

Hunting the Wild Grigio

Consorzio Cal-Italia 2001

Turnbull Wine Cellars – 2000 Barbera Estate – deep ruby color – shy, dusty aromatics – very pleasant entry – medium weight and well balanced plummy flavors with the requisite acidity that often accompanies this varietal.

1997 Sangiovese – again, shy on the nose – a medium weight wine with less body than the Barbera – punctuated by tannins that I would think should have resolved by now – not an unpleasant wine – requires food.

1999 Sangiovese Estate – sweeter and a bit more forward fruit – very sweet and pretty in the mouth, although not easily identified as Sangiovese – but balanced and more pleasing than the 97.

1997 Toroso – a proprietary blend of 60% Primativo, 30% Barbera and 10% Nebbiolo – dense and dark ruby color – ripe and dark Primativo aromatics in the nose – likewise, denser flavors – slightly chewy tannins in the finish – does not have the elegance and balance of the previous wines, but probably a darned fine wine to have with Lasagna Bolognese and garlic bread.

Seghesio Family Vineyards – 2000 Arneis Russian River Valley – very pale color – pretty peach and wildflowers in the nose, which follow on the palate – bracing and refreshing acidity – the finish is very clean – a stark contrast to most of the white wines I’ve tasted here today.

2000 Pinot Grigio – likewise, pale in the glass and shy in the nose – very flavorful in the mouth with nice astringency – finishes cleanly. A very nice pair of whites from this producer.

1999 Sangiovese Alexander Valley 9% Cabernet 7% Merlot – ruby color with restrained aromatics – very plummy fruit on the entry – the tannins, at this point, have not come into balance, but has the fruit and structure to improve over the next two to three years. I would be interested in revisiting this wine.

1998 Chianti Station – Sangiovese from the Home Ranch – very pleasant, sweet plum and purple stone fruits in the nose – nice weight in the mouth with lovely intensity of flavors – still a hint of smooth tannins in the back of the mouth, but all in all, a very, very good wine.

1999 Barbera – from purchased fruit 75% Mendocino 25% Lake County – starts off with ripe fruit, but fades abruptly in the nose – not so in the mouth – nice intensity with the expected acidity – probably drinks well with the right food – something spicy and fatty.

The Chianti Station is clearly the star of this impressive lineup.

Boeger Winery – 1999 Refosco with 23% Nebbiolo – sweet black cherry and dust in the nose – smooth and pleasant in the mouth – well balanced with nice intensity – although not terribly complex, a wine that will pair very nicely with food.

1999 Barbera – stone fruit aromatics – smooth, well balanced and easy on the palate – drinks very nicely – the acids have been tamed – quite delicious and very impressive.

1998 Barbera Reserve – a bit shy in the nose, but very clean and bright fruit on the palate – the wine is focused and balanced – drinks nicely – it lacks the intensity I would expect from a reserve bottling, but this may be reflective of the vintage more than anything else.

Iron Horse Vineyards – these folks produce some of the most consistent sparklers in California.

1998 Sangiovese Estate with 8% Cabernet – lovely bright garnet color – reticent nose – sweet and forward in the mouth – pleasant and balanced, although lacks a bit of varietal character – bright acid structure – may be a good food wine.

1999 Sangiovese 5%Cabernet Sauvignon 5% Cabernet Franc – brilliant garnet color – aromatically shy – not very expressive on the palate at this point – more tannin than acid up front – lacks weight and varietal character – two disappointing wines from Iron Horse.

Conclusions

The tasting: very good. Nice integration of food with wine – keeps the taster interested. High marks for format and setup.

The wines: disappointing at best. I’ve noticed a significant turnover in the participating wineries, and few winery principals who pour. Some of that is due to the early crush, but part of the attraction of these kinds of events is the opportunity to meet and talk with the owners and winemakers.

Perhaps it wasn’t a great day for my palate, but I found the wines to be lackluster. There was little of interest, and even less I would buy. Why the lack of varietal character? Why so little intensity? Why are so few wines worth the asking price?

Nevertheless, I’ll be back next year – continuing my search for the wild Grigio.

califusa
Left Coast Correspondent to the Gang of Pour