Gang of Pour - Left Coast Correspondent

Hunting the Wild Grigio

Consorzio Cal-Italia 2001

Corsorzio Cal-Italia is among my favorite tasting events. These folks have decided to integrate the pairing of food and wine into the event, and have succeeded. In addition to winery participants, you will also find bakers, producers of cheese, olive oil, condiments, sausage and other foods right alongside. This adds another welcome dimension to the event.

This year, I was delighted to see Joyce Goldstein, late of Square One and well known cookbook author, as well as Michael Chiarello (left), founding chef at Tra Vigne, and now host of his own television series, cookbook author, and here today to promote his new catalogue business, Napa Style.

In addition to having several tables displaying products from the catalogue, Michael also had a display kitchen setup in the back of the Herbst Pavilion, and conducted cooking demonstrations throughout the day.

My first stop was with Phoenix Vineyards and Aaron Bader, who I’ve known for three years or so. I met him when he was working in hospitality at Opus One – he has since given up that position to devote all his time to the family business, and handles the winemaking chores. He is here with his brother, Eric, who I am meeting for the first time.

2000 Rosato de Sangiovese – very limited production – 2% residual sugar – pale rose hue in the glass with fresh and lively fruit aromatics – the sweetness of the wine is evident in the front of the palate and the fruit characteristics follow through. The acidity of the wine gives it a very clean finish – a great quaffer for the back porch on a warm afternoon.

1999 Blood of Jupiter – predominantly Sangiovese with 11% Cabernet Franc – pleasant and rich Sangiovese fruit in the nose with lovely ripeness – still a little tight in the mouth, but the fruit is all there – the Franc is not really evident – there’s no stemminess or herbaceousness in the wine – the tannin and acid structure ensures aging potential – perhaps Aaron’s best Sangiovese to date.

Phoenix has changed their package. At one time the labels carried very colorful artwork – now they carry a rather sophisticated gold logo on a black background.

Next stop was with another Napa neighbor – Benessere – these folks are also Sangiovese and Pinot Grigio producers.

2000 Pinot Grigio – pale straw color – shy nose of honeydew and white peach – soft entry – the fruit aromas follow on the palate, and the wine is pleasant enough, but lacks the acid structure one might expect from this varietal as well as some intensity.

2000 Rosato de Sangiovese – pretty salmon color – very shy in the nose – again, lacking fruit in the mouth, and a tad bitter in the finish.

1998 Sangiovese – medium garnet with a hint of brown – shy notes of plummy fruit in the nose – medium weight fruit in the mouth, but predominant and somewhat coarse tannins throw the wine out of balance.

A disappointing showing from Benessere.

And from Luna Winery over on the Silverado Trail –

2000 Pinot Grigio – quite shy in the nose – lacks fruit in the midpalate – finishes short and bitter. Pass – especially at $18.

1999 Sangiovese – 6% Merlot – dark garnet in color – likewise, very shy in the nose – nice enough fruit in the mouth – unfortunately, it doesn’t taste much like Sangiovese – I’ll pass on this one, as well.