2001 Pfeffingen Ungsteiner Herrenberg Riesling Spatlese, 10.5% alc.: Mike (at the left) brought this along from a tasting held the previous evening; there was only enough left in the bottle to give each of us a short glass, but it was very nice. Pale to medium straw in color, it gives lovely sweet apple, pear and peach flavors and aromas, shaded with soft herbal undertones. It all moves along with good acidity all the way through the nice long finish. I could drink plenty more of this. 

1997 Trimbach Riesling Alsace Cuvée Frédéric Emile, 13% alc.: It's been a year since we last tasted this, and it continues to develop very well. A medium straw that seems to show even more petrol than last year, it also shows the requisite wet stone/mineral, along with star fruit and pear in both flavor and aroma. Larry gave impressions of "a glassy kind of texture, lots of acid, a little rainwater on the nose and some herb in the background," and wondered aloud if he didn't find it somewhat reminiscent of a Saviennierres. I can't answer his last question for him, but I can say that this keeps getting better and better, and at $19.99 per, I'm sorry that I didn't buy more of this when I had the chance. I'll hold my last bottle for at least a few more years. 

L.M.: A blind pour that was handed to me shortly after arriving -- what hosts! One sniff said "not from the US". Stones and herbs aplenty...some sea air -- it had me thinking Savennieres. White and yellow fruits on the palate...mineral...a honey quality, but finishing with plenty of herbs (not the same but reminiscent of a Gruner Veltliner). It was dense...somewhat tight with an acidic wash. I did eventually get around to saying "Alsace". Nice wine, but quite young.

1985 Moet & Chandon Champagne Cuvée Dom Pérignon, 12.5% alc.: Mike thought that this would be in order for the evening's festivities, and who were we to argue? It's gaining a pale gold color, and tastes much different than the one I sampled about eight years ago. Then it was all yeasty bread dough, but now, it's moving into the secondary areas with a cascade of herbed butterscotch, nutty toffee and caramel. It looks more unctuous than it actually is, and tastes almost sweet at first, but it's not. The small bead fades by the end of the glass, but this is still great stuff with a nice long finish. Even Kim likes this, and she's not a fan of the bubbly. 

L.M.: Herbal and damp nose...turning yeasty and then buttery. Quite dense -- it fans out across the tongue with sweet butterscotch and anise/herbal notes...minerals and hazelnuts wrap it all up. It seems fairly mature, but quite compelling.

1996 J. Rochioli Russian River Valley Pinot Noir Little Hill Block, 13% alc.: Larry wondered if we'd be interested in a mini-vertical from a select plot of one of Kim's favorite producers (OK, I admit it, Rochioli's one of my faves too), and the verdict was unanimous. The '96 is a slightly smoky ruby dark garnet that's showing all that lovely Rochioli perfume, with its smoky black cherry, plum, Asian spice and just the right kiss of sweet oak. Flavors echo with fairly unobtrusive tannins that will probably benefit from another five years or so in the cellar, and it finishes long. Larry said, "I had this a year ago, and it was muddy; now, it's a bright, high point wine." I would certainly second that second point.

L.M.: Bright notes of Indian spice, thyme and sage...lingering incense and damp forest floor. The black raspberry fruit sweeps across the tongue, heading more toward pomegranate in the center...grilled mushrooms and light minerals. The tannins offer some framework, while the acids have a playful snap. A juicy finish heads toward slightly astringent tea-like flavors. It has lovely textures and a svelte body. I found this to be in a fine stage of development -- flavorful, elegant and complex...at or near its peak. Excellent.

1997 J. Rochioli Russian River Valley Pinot Noir Little Hill Block, 13.5% alc.: A little darker in color than the '96, this also throws a deeper, darker bouquet, but it's no less enticing. Less tannic, and yet denser, riper and more fruit driven than the previous model, it shows the requisite smoky black cherry, plum, Asian spice thing, along with some brown sugar, and what Kim described as "Old Spice in the white bottle." The wine evolves continually in the glass, but while Mike, Kim and this taster found it to be lovely (we all used the same descriptor), Larry commented, "I don't particularly care for the ripeness at this point." I suppose a few more years in the bottle would solve that, but the question is, does he have anymore? 

L.M.: Black raspberries, brown sugar, and peppery spice form a heady perfume...floral notes strike nice tones after an hour or more. Sweet blackberries and elderberry brandy (a little heat) are broad and thick on the attack...a dusty, slightly wooden core. Crushed flowers, nose tickling spice and what someone called "griddle cakes" (perhaps buttery, maple syrup) all add some accents. It is quite tannic...tight....slightly drying black tea notes...more earthy. This is in a strange place, and I'd imagine a few years will really help it out...at present it is out of sorts and not showing enough integration of its oak infused characteristics.

1998 J. Rochioli Russian River Valley Pinot Noir Little Hill Block, 13.5% alc.: This one reverts to more or less the same color scheme of the '96, and the otherwise signature bouquet is neither quite as deep or as dark as either of the two previous wines. Still, it might be the most expressive of the three vintages at this point, especially with dinner (a reprise of the blackout Costco duck), and Kim said that it smelled like "a melting vanilla ice cream cone by the last sip." 

L.M.: More of that pretty thyme and Indian spice...coffee, toffee, and nice earth tones. Perhaps brooding a bit at the outset, but it unfolds to show pretty black cherry and raspberry, along with ample spice and minerals...turning thicker at the center -- just slightly creamy. Spice and chamomile tea dominate the finish. It was delicious with our dinner of duck and sautéed summer veggies, making it seem more elegant -- distant from its beefy beginnings. It shows nice grip and offers a strong finish. It is not as developed or polished as the '96, but might have greater potential...nice balance.

The three vintages are all delightful variations of a familiar theme, and while I've read negative comments from detractors of this style, I can't agree with them in the least. I will ALWAYS love Rochioli Pinot Noir, as long as they keep doing that voodoo that they do.

1978 R. Lopez de Heredia Vina Condonia S.A. Rioja Vina Bosconia Gran Reserva, 12.5% alc.: Mike felt that this was what we needed to top off the evening, so we acquiesced, none too grudgingly, I might add. It's a medium bodied, slightly rusty ruby garnet, with rich earthy, dusty red fruit, cherry, raspberry and violet character, along with what Mike described as "a slight barrel funk in a good kind of way." Kim mentioned "a slight tomato tin can thing," and Larry agreed; she also noted a hint of peanut butter. This is still mostly pure fruit, with almost no secondary nuances to speak of, and the tannins are fully resolved, with good acidity and a nice long finish. This is drinking so well for a twenty five-year-old wine, with excellent intensity of flavor. 

L.M.: Dusty and beautifully floral...earthy tones with herbs...cardamom. Both red and black fruits stand on equal footing with baked earth and blood...canned tomatoes. Tannins are light, but lend a drying edge...peppery and long on the finish. It has a fantastic nose that I could have lingered over all night long...interesting, mature flavors.

Many thanks to Mike and Larry for bringing some truly memorable wines to our humble abode. Let's do it again next year, guys!

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